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Help!!!

atvthumper

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I have a problem I posted about a few weeks ago.. There is a what is now severe popping/banging noise coming from the rear of our 88 k5.. We have replaced both u-joints and I pulled the cover off and everything looked fine in the rearend.. No metal shaving no bad gears.. I really feels like the whole rearend is shifting.. It only does it when we are going around a curve or turning.. Especially when pulling a trailor.. When turning left the right side pops and I mean loud , and it jerks a little and the same happens when turning right except the sound and jerk comes from the left side.. We just bout this about a month ago so I dont know if the rearend has been changed before.. IT is a 12 bolt and has GM71 stamped on the housing.. Does it sound like both wheel bearings are bad? I am going to check the u-bolts to make sure they are tight in a few minutes.. I just dont know what else to do /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif Any and all help or suggestions would be highly appreciated...
 
Does it have a locker? They exhibit popping and banging behaviour. The rearend has been changed, if it does have 12 bolts, it would be pre -1981. Double check the u-bolts, look for damaged leaf in the pack, bushings, and shackles. What did the inside of diff look like? Were there 4 gears , or some springs and a lever? Oh and don't forget to check the shock mounts for cracking /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 
Yes it has a locker.. From what I have read on here it seems to be a gov-lock... On the passenger side the middle spring is broke.. Thought that may be doing it so I welded it back together and drove it down the rode and it still did it.. They weld is still holding.. It is getting worse.. I am going to run out to the garage in a few minutes and check all the things you mentioned.. What kind of rearend could we put under it? My step-father said it looks like the passenger side wheel is kinda catching when the popping occurs.. We are wondering if we should just try to replace the whole rearend.. But have limited amount $$... So we where wondering what kind of rearends would fit or if any would work.. Thanks again guys!
 
Everyone would say put a 14bff in it. I personally run a 12 bolt with an open carrier and lockright. Lots of guys beat up 12 bolts just fine. Get rid of the gov-loc asap. It will let go, mine did. BTW does it feel funny in the steering wheel when it does it? I forgot to ask. Right before my gov-loc let go it stay locked and would "push" . /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 
Yeh it jerks like its locking up..Thought that may be what it was but since everything looked ok in the diff.. I just kinda shrugged it off.. What would I need to do/buy to get rid of it? Dont know much about this stuff..
 
Well, unfortunately you have to change carriers with a used open one and a locker if you want to keep the 12 bolt. Which is what I did. I found 12 bolt at a yard and added lockright.

Changing to a stronger axle will mean :
1. Locating 8 lug axle (junkyard or ck5 member)
2. adding new seals and brakes, possibly locker too.(unless axle is low miles)
3. Converting front to 8 lug (backing plates, hub and rotors)
4. Buying 15" 8 lug rims and grinding front calipers to keep same tires. Or going 16 rims , no grinding, and buy new tires.

That is why I run a 12 bolt with a lockright , was easier. You may be able to use the same shims and be close to your original gear setup. I do recommend having the gears set up in the rear of a daily driver though.
 
Let me check again.. Maybe its a 14 bolt I am having doubts now about my memory.. Here is how the locker looked... It had 3 gears and I believe 2 springs in the center.. Kinda wierd looking.. Like I said I dont know much about this.. Never owned a 4x4 before this one..
 
Yep its a 12 bolt.. And Dyeager535 your link didnt work but from your home page I found it under auto links and its the first pic in there...Oh I just dont know what to do with this thing!! /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
 
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