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Hey all!

Bob87Burb

1/2 ton status
Joined
Apr 19, 2003
Posts
141
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Location
RI
Just a quick intro post! I'm new here, and to wheeling. I bought a 1987 Burb 1500 last August, and am finally getting a chance to get things done. I already replaced the fuel tank (40 gal), and have gone through the usual maintenance stuff. I have a 2" spring lift in the garage waiting to be installed. I know, it's kinda wimpy, but my wife drives the truck and we use it for our family vehicle, so I needed to keep it sane. I also ordered some of the replacement body parts this week, fenders, inners, and passenger door. I am also going to need rear quarter patches, a tailgate, and the rear doors. I have looked at Goodmark, and they seem to be good quality and reasonably priced. Anyone have any experience with Goodmark? Or any other suggestions?

So much for the quick post... /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

Almost forgot, I bought the membership too!
 
Thanks for joinin the site. Youll be glad that you joined up, its well worth it. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/burb.gif
 
Goodmark is one of the better ones to buy. Most places like Year One resell Goodmark tin.
Burbs are fun! I have had my 88 454 Burb for 8 days now. Still grin when I see it in the driveway.

Welcome to CK5!
 
Welcome to CK5 /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif We'll try our best to answer any questions you may have.
 
I actually have a question already. Seems like all the Suburbans and Blazers I've seen have the saggy rear problem. When I put the lift on I want to make sure that the rear is not lower than the front. I've been reading about the zero rates, and I'm a little confused. What are they? It seems like it would be a good idea to add them in when I install the springs, to prevent sagging?
 
Zero-rates are pieces of metal that act like a lift block, but they're better. First of all, it's a solid 1" piece of metal. Secondly, intead of just being sandwiched in between the spring pack and axle, it's bolted to the spring pack via the centering pin. And, it gets its name because of the fact that it attaches to the spring pack like an add-a-leaf, but it doesn't increase the spring rate like an add-a-leaf does.
I suggest installing the springs (did you get 4, 2" lift springs? or just the fronts?) and then seeing how it sits. After that you can adjust the height with the zero-rates. (Unlike blocks, they're safe to use on the front axle too because they bolt to the pack - it's just like having a spring pack that's 1" taller)

Good to see another one join the 'burb crew. Welcome aboard. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
Thanks for the reply, and the link. Can't believe I missed that! I bought a complete 2" suspension kit (all 4 springs) from Rough Country. I checked out those zero rates, and ordered a set just in case I need them. I may just put them in right off the bat, I'm sure the rear will sag a little with all our camping gear in there.

Thanks for the welcome guys! It's nice to find a place like this, tons of useful info!
 
[ QUOTE ]
I actually have a question already. Seems like all the Suburbans and Blazers I've seen have the saggy rear problem. When I put the lift on I want to make sure that the rear is not lower than the front. I've been reading about the zero rates, and I'm a little confused. What are they? It seems like it would be a good idea to add them in when I install the springs, to prevent sagging?

[/ QUOTE ]

Some of that is an optical illusion. The truck may be sitting level as measured at the rocker. These trucks taper down to the rear for better airodynamics. Most people do like what they look like with an extra inch or so in the rear. On mine I am think of puttin a set of air bags on the rear to help level out and help with the travel trailer I will be pulling with mine.
 
Never thought of airbags... it has air shocks on it now, installed by a previous owner, and they level it out pretty well, but the ride is very harsh when I level the truck with them, pretty much like every other vehicle I've driven with air shocks. The air shocks will get ditched when the lift and zero rates go on. Airbags would be a good option, they would not affect the normal ride, and help out when towing, or loaded down.
 

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