Massacre-77
1/2 ton status
need new water pump any one here run this pump?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-1449nc thanks
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/tff-1449nc thanks
CK5
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hi flow water pump
- Thread starter Massacre-77
- Start date
If you end up running that (or another high flow) report back. Plan on needing a high flow pump myself, just looked through summit for other high flow pumps and none of the ones I looked at gave you any idea what the innards look like, which is where the pumps are improved. Doesn't help the one you are looking has only one review.
Glanced at some of the AL ones, at least one review stating a 35* temp drop. Pretty amazing. Hard to be believe actually, but hey http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-310116/overview/make/chevrolet
Glanced at some of the AL ones, at least one review stating a 35* temp drop. Pretty amazing. Hard to be believe actually, but hey http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-310116/overview/make/chevrolet
63chevyll
1/2 ton status
Ive never seen any temp drop with a high flow pump. Maybe its just my application.
I'd believe 35% more flow maybe,but I believe there is such a thing as pumping the coolant too fast through the system,not allowing it enough cooling time in the radiator too--I would think more flow might not always reduce the coolants temprature...removing the thermostat often caused that with stock water pumps...then they came out with the restricting washer to put in place of the T-stat for racing..
In my opinion the bigger the radiator,the better..more cores and surface area will help more than anything..(fans at lower speeds are needed too ,especially if you tow)..
In my opinion the bigger the radiator,the better..more cores and surface area will help more than anything..(fans at lower speeds are needed too ,especially if you tow)..
Core size is a major difference, but based on how GM set up the huge radiators in these trucks, my opinion is that capacity was more important than airflow over it. Look at the core support....the additional core area of those radiators is "shrouded" by the core support. There would be some airflow over it, but nothing like what gets through the center area.
I think the "too fast coolant" theory has been pretty thoroughly dis proven, I've not seen any modern theories that would explain why this would be. The only time velocity would be an issue would be when you get cavitation of the pump, and that's an RPM/pump design issue. In the most simple of terms, the longer the coolant stays in the radiator, the longer it stays in contact with the heat source (the cylinders) and the harder the radiator has to work, let alone the problem with the coolant boiling on contact with the cylinders. Put another way, if you fed an engine pure cold water, and dumped the heated coolant, would the engine ever warm up? Nope. Colder inlet temps=colder outlet temps. Hotter inlet temps=hotter outlet temps. There are some anomalies (people removing thermostat and seeing higher temps) but my suspicion is that those results are based on other variables such as engine design, pump efficiency, condition of the radiator, etc. I bought a car without a thermostat, and it never warmed up, such that there was never any pressure in the cooling system.
The claimed temperature drop to me sounded a bit outrageous, I can only see that if you had a fan that was way more effective than most. You'd also have to have a cooling system that was running over the thermostat rated temp to see it. If anything, I'd expect to see less propensity for the temperature to climb under higher loads with a pump moving more coolant. For the lay-person to quantify that change would be very difficult, since duplicating conditions outside a dedicated test battery is essentially impossible.
I think the "too fast coolant" theory has been pretty thoroughly dis proven, I've not seen any modern theories that would explain why this would be. The only time velocity would be an issue would be when you get cavitation of the pump, and that's an RPM/pump design issue. In the most simple of terms, the longer the coolant stays in the radiator, the longer it stays in contact with the heat source (the cylinders) and the harder the radiator has to work, let alone the problem with the coolant boiling on contact with the cylinders. Put another way, if you fed an engine pure cold water, and dumped the heated coolant, would the engine ever warm up? Nope. Colder inlet temps=colder outlet temps. Hotter inlet temps=hotter outlet temps. There are some anomalies (people removing thermostat and seeing higher temps) but my suspicion is that those results are based on other variables such as engine design, pump efficiency, condition of the radiator, etc. I bought a car without a thermostat, and it never warmed up, such that there was never any pressure in the cooling system.
The claimed temperature drop to me sounded a bit outrageous, I can only see that if you had a fan that was way more effective than most. You'd also have to have a cooling system that was running over the thermostat rated temp to see it. If anything, I'd expect to see less propensity for the temperature to climb under higher loads with a pump moving more coolant. For the lay-person to quantify that change would be very difficult, since duplicating conditions outside a dedicated test battery is essentially impossible.
always run stockers and 3core rad with no problems .
