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Hi-Steer or Crossover?

ericcarney

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So, I just got my machined flat top knuckle and steering arms in from eBay and dove into upgrading my steering setup. Now I am faced with a dilemma, I got both steering arms because I thought I needed them, but apparently only for Hi-Steer. So should I go full on Hi-Steer or sell the drivers side arm and just do Crossover? Either way, I have steering bar ready to be cut to length and tapped for a 7/8 thread, but I need to know what TRE's to get for Hi-Steer or crossover. I have an 8" lift but the steering arms I have are made to clear the springs up to 8". Oh and I need a drop down pitman arm for an 8" lift but don't know how far it needs to drop to compensate. Any help is appreciated.
 
Probably crossover would do fine for you with a superlift 4"drop pitman arm. Dont forget to put a bend in that crossover bar to help with angle on the TRE's
 
So what TRE's should I use for the pitman arm and passenger side knuckle?
 
Well, I just came in from outside and realized that I am going to have to put a different TRE on the passenger side of my knuckle because the flat top knuckle has a different size hole. So since I already have the bar, how hard is it to relocate the steering stabilizer for Hi-
steer?
 
typically no one uses a stabilizer for Hi-steer. just a ram for hydro assist. you would have to do a little fab work to make it work.
 
is this what you got? Only in high steer?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DANA...QQitemZ270599725579QQptZAutomotiveQ5fServices
A lot of ppl are weary of D44 high steering kits. Some say it's too much stress on the one knuckle. I actually have this from EBay, then went everything else from ORD, including their bigass tierod in front. :( all still on garage floor

Ha, yeah that's what I got. He did a really good job, I am actually going to call ORD tomorrow and get the drop down pitman arm and TREs for hi-steer, and probly go ahead and get a frame support while I am at it. But I don't want to put hi steer on my truck if I am constantly going to be replacing steering arms on the passenger side. But it would have to be a serious blow to break that thick son of a gun. And what is the ram for hydro assist?
 
fyi older dana 44 flat top knuckles use tie rod on the other side.

like top down or bottom up for the taper. so if you are swaping this on to a 10bolt axle then i bet this is why its diffrent tie rod end.
 
fyi older dana 44 flat top knuckles use tie rod on the other side.

like top down or bottom up for the taper. so if you are swaping this on to a 10bolt axle then i bet this is why its diffrent tie rod end.


True that. Top down tierod with crossover is the way to go. Doesnt stress the **** out of the knuckles and everything is still WAY out of the way.
 
Ha, yeah that's what I got. He did a really good job, I am actually going to call ORD tomorrow and get the drop down pitman arm and TREs for hi-steer, and probly go ahead and get a frame support while I am at it. But I don't want to put hi steer on my truck if I am constantly going to be replacing steering arms on the passenger side. But it would have to be a serious blow to break that thick son of a gun. And what is the ram for hydro assist?
The tierod ends that come with their draglink (from pitman to knuckle) are the right size for the EBay arm. Make sure your passenger side tierod (from knuckle to knuckle) is tapered in the same direction as your drivers side, like others have mentioned. Mine is a '79 D44 and the taper was different from the flat tops. Same size, just different direction. My old knuckle holes are larger on the bottom, tapered to the top. The flat top passenger and matching driver side are larger on top, tapered to the bottom.

The pitman, HD tierod, and draglink all work with my EBay arm and '73 flat top knuckles. You wont worry about highsteer if you get ORD's HD tierod, it's massive and heavy!!

PS> I'm not sure about my terminology.
Tierod= from knuckle to knuckle
Draglink= pitman to knuckle
 

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