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Hidden cost of 1 ton swap?

Col_Sanders

Col_Sanders

3/4 ton status
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After seeing the price of regearing my 14sf and front 10 bolt to 4.56s and since I want more tire anyway (not to mention a possible move to a good wheelin area), I'm once again throwing the idea of 1 tons around. I already have spring perches, shock tabs, and u-bolt plates for a 14 bolt so I'd have to get the new stuff welded up. I also have a set of El Dorado calipers already from the disks on the 14sf.

I figure the initial cost for tires, wheels, and the axles will be a good bit higher than regearing these but I can recoup that by selling my like new 35s and wheels, the 14sf, and the Yukon gears I have for it or I could buy a CUCV and just swap it all around and sell it.

So aside from what all I have figured up and the price for new u-bolts and gear oil, what else should I plan to spend money on?
 
depending on which year eldorado calipers you have, they may need to be swapped. The 79-85 calipers fit on the 1/2 ton rotors and the 76-78 calipers fit on the 1 ton rotors. Are the 3/4 ton rotors the same as the one ton?
 
CS,

The 14BFF end of the truck is the cheap side....it's the D60 that will eat you alive financially....

rebuild parts
Crossover steering
high steer (opt)
hydro assist
Locker
etc.

:usaflag:
 
.it's the D60 that will eat you alive financially
Click to expand...

yea, if your budget is small don't read the rest of the list below

(locker, non-neckdown shafts, 35 spline outers and the new hubs they require, 1350 yoke and the driveshaft modifications it requires)

one tip I got from 4x4high that saved me a bunch of trouble is use the spicer inner axle seals with the metal guides on them. All of my parts store sources could only get the timkin and national stuff that didn't come with the guide. I had to order them online.
 
It would remain as close to stock as possible for a while. I just want to get driveable and then mod as needed later. If I stuck with the 10b front I would at least end up with crossover later.

Not sure what year the calipers are.
 
If you're going to leave the front axle stock for the moment there will be no hidden cost involved as long as it has the steering arm and tie rod still on the axle and comes with the spring plates and U-bolts (3 U-bolts and 2 studs or bolts for the pumpkin side). The front U-joints are all the same 1/2, 3/4 and 1 ton in stock configuration.

Depending on what year axle you find versus the year of your truck the brakes line may or may not work.
 
I'm simple, so I'd like to get it going then upgrade as needed.

The cheapest I could find in Dallas to regear was $275 per axle for labor only. Thats going to set me back a total of ~$800 since I need gears for the front, tax, oil, etc. I would hold out on regearing for a bit but my current front is 3.42 and the rear I have waiting is 3.73. Although I cant 100% see that I need 1 tons just yet, why spend money twice?
 
Plan on spending anywhere between $800-$1200 for a D60 front axle. If you get lucky it wont need any immediate work done to it.
 
4X4HIGH said:
Plan on spending anywhere between $800-$1200 for a D60 front axle. If you get lucky it wont need any immediate work done to it.
Click to expand...


:eek1: I feel bad for you guys...




I'd say if your gonna throw one up front dont put it in without doing a locker. Atleast if you lock you've taken care of the furthest link down the chain as far as disassembling things all over again goes.

Personally I wouldnt bother with one tons without crossover either though.
 
There are deals to be had, I'm just so damn far away from everything now it screws up many deals. I'd love to be able to pick it all up on the way to Texas, so I'm looking everywhere I can thats in the path.
 
Well I just finished mine. I got a 14ff with 4:56's and a locker with a disc brake conversion, dana 60 with 4:56's and ord's crossover steering setup. Because I did all of the work myself, I did not have to pay anything besides cost for parts, and I am at about $2800 now that it is installed.
 
As mentioned before , you can just get the axles in and have a d/d plus do some wheelin. you can get the crossover steering and lockes and 35 sline outers and so on and so on down the road as you run into more money and want to do harder wheelin.

dont forget the following extras :

conversion joint for the 14bff
larger lug nuts
brake fluid.
front ubolts and plates
front ujoint ubolts ( instead of straps )
front brakelines maybe
 
I have a couple of the conversion u-joints and a good bit of brake fluid and 80w-90. Forgot about lugnuts though. I have new extended brake lines up front and I think I have some more soft lines for the rear. I only plan on 37s, maybe 38s, but minimal lift.

The rough part is going to be talking my wife into spending the extra money.
 
3.73 and 37 to 38 tires ? :eek1:

go bare min 4.10 or 4.56 and if od tranny equiped go for the gold as deep as possible 5.13 or 5.38. you will then be able to use the od portion and have the bottom end guts for street use.
 
Just going through, in my head, a rough estimate on my 60 swap - $1000 for the axle,(with a very beat K30 attached) $800+ for x-over and hi-steer, $300ish for a Lock-right, $1850 for Longfield CVs, $400ish for 2 pair of 35 spl. Warn Premium hubs, $250 for the pair of O.E. new SRW hubs $120 for the R.S.S. diff cover, $35 for the R.S.S. Supid Strong spring perch = $5555 :eek1: Oops forgot the gears $200 ish (free setup from my friend)= $5755 - YIKES!!!!!!!!
 
sweetk30 said:
3.73 and 37 to 38 tires ? :eek1:

go bare min 4.10 or 4.56 and if od tranny equiped go for the gold as deep as possible 5.13 or 5.38. you will then be able to use the od portion and have the bottom end guts for street use.
Click to expand...

The 14sf I have sitting right now currently has 3.73s. I have a set of Yukon 4.56s for it so of course I have to regear the front if I went that route. I'm really hoping for a CUCV or at least the axles. I think that should plenty streetable with my motor. With my current 3.42s and 35s I have enough power that I grin when mashing the loud pedal. Even when pumping gas afterwards. :D
 
Col_Sanders said:
I have a couple of the conversion u-joints and a good bit of brake fluid and 80w-90. Forgot about lugnuts though. I have new extended brake lines up front and I think I have some more soft lines for the rear. I only plan on 37s, maybe 38s, but minimal lift.

The rough part is going to be talking my wife into spending the extra money.
Click to expand...

Well I am in the same boat with my wife. that is why I buy a item here and there. Plus what haw helped me is selling my old 6 lug stuff like rims and tires. So as I would sell a part, I would buy a part.
Right now I still have my 6 lug axles for sale, that will pay for
a rear locker:D
 
I had the same question as to why I needed a crossover setup with one tons. And basically what it comes down to is this. If you are going to be wheeling hard enough to need one ton axles, then you are going to be wheeling hard enough to need a crossover steering setup. With the stock setup, if you get articulated, there is a good chance you will not be able to turn. Do the math:-)
 
us74k5 said:
I had the same question as to why I needed a crossover setup with one tons. And basically what it comes down to is this. If you are going to be wheeling hard enough to need one ton axles, then you are going to be wheeling hard enough to need a crossover steering setup. With the stock setup, if you get articulated, there is a good chance you will not be able to turn. Do the math:-)
Click to expand...

I agree to a point but since all of us are not made of money what real cost savings would there be if you started with stock and went cross over and high steer later? I have a beat k30 and even with the big block most likely wouldn't HAVE to have a front 60. Still I have one and it keeps me from braking axles and allow piece of mine. Plus I drive mine to and from the trails. I only run 37s so I guess I am a bit of a pussy wheeler but I did break a 44 before I had my k30 and have broken 10 bolts with 33s so I am not too easy. What is the strength limit of 30 spline outters?
 
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