high lift jack points, axle and gear choice (14bsf) questions...

[XHitman396]

ok, first off, while staring at chev4life's rear pic of truck (very nice by the way) it hit me. i havent purchased a hi lift partially due to lack of lift positions on the corners, but i was thinkin, could i find some heavy duty steel tubing to fit inside the trailer hitch tube, going from one side of the truck to the other, and rig a flat, grippy plce to the hi lift there? would i need to upgrade my hitch from stock, or use stock? cuz i cant afford a brand ner bumper built. i think it may work, wuddya think.. second, im going to go 35's but dont want to lose the clearance i will going to a 14bff, so would a 14bsf be sufficient, and do they come in 6-lug? i may detroit lock it, and will only see mud, and have a 383 in front of it eventually, it doesnt need to be bomb proof, but will it work if driven mildly? and are these hard to find with 4.10's, or do you think i should try for 4.56's, its a daily driver with a 700r4, will gas mileage go down far? are they cheaper/more expensive than full floaters, and how can you tell the difference just lookin at it. sorry for the length, and this has all been asked before im sure, but i wanna know first hand, thanks for all your help....

 

[pauly383]

Many later model trucks had 6 lug 14bsf. Try subs and tahoes. You will need to move perches and shock mounts. If you find one with disc brakes or add it on, the caliper will hold in the axle if you break a shaft and save your fender. They look like 10 and 12 bolts kinda , but with 14 bolts. They are stronger than 10 and 12 bolts, but of course weaker than 14bff. Gear ratios are hit or miss, if you search junkyards. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif

 

[mr_fujisawa]

full float hubs have bolts on the outside (6 i think) to hold the axle shaft in.
semi float hubs have a little circle with a bar going across the diameter.
the semi float ddid come in 6 lug

depending on how far the gear change is you will see a mileage drop. i went from 2.73 to 4.10 and had almost a double consumption on the freeway. (keep in mind 4" lift was also on there.)

hi lift makes a bumper accesory for people with curved bumpers (like stock k5 bumpers). i have used it several times and it works fine.

 

[heavy4x4]

[ QUOTE ]
could i find some heavy duty steel tubing to fit inside the trailer hitch tube, going from one side of the truck to the other, and rig a flat, grippy plce to the hi lift there?

[/ QUOTE ]

If I'm picturing what you're describing correctly, you'd have to make a pretty beefy design in order to do this. And even then, if you were to lift one corner of that, the tube will be at an angle and your hi-lift has the posibility of slipping off and your truck crashing back down.
What I do is stick the hi-lift into the receiver opening. What this does is lifts the whole rear of the truck at one time. Just chock the front wheels and you'll be okay. There's really nothing "safe" about using a hi-lift. There have been many times where my truck has been swaying in the wind while jacked up on one of those. If all you're going to use a jack for is tire changes or trail-repairs to axle parts, then buy a bottle jack for putting under your axle and throw it in the back of your truck.


[ QUOTE ]
would a 14bsf be sufficient, and do they come in 6-lug? i may detroit lock it, and will only see mud, and have a 383 in front of it eventually, it doesnt need to be bomb proof, but will it work if driven mildly? and are these hard to find with 4.10's, or do you think i should try for 4.56's, its a daily driver with a 700r4, will gas mileage go down far? are they cheaper/more expensive than full floaters, and how can you tell the difference just lookin at it

[/ QUOTE ]

A 14 bolt SF sounds like the perfect axle for what you're descibing. They do come in 6-lug, but personally, I'd look for one out of a mid-to-late 80's 3/4 ton 4x4 pickup. This will be 8-lug, but you won't have to relocate shock mounts or spring perches. Then, buy an 8-to-6 lug adaptor and you'll be all set. They do come with 4.10's, but like it was stated, it really depends on what the junkyard has at the time you're looking. And, you can definitely expect to pay more for a 14 bolt SF...they come under less vehicles than the FF, so they are more "rare" than the FF. Thus, the junkyard will charge you as if it's plated in 24 karat gold instead of 14 karat. As for gear ratio, I doubt you'll find one set up with 4.56 from the factory. But, having the 700R4, you'd be better off with the 4.56 than the 4.10 if you're going with a 35" tire. 4.10 wouldn't be bad though. Just remember you'll have to change out the front axle gears to match the rear.

 

[Highjaxx]

I paid a lot more for my 6-lug 14SF, than the 14FF I'm about to swap in. I was planning to put in a selectable locker in (ARB,Eaton,ect...), but I've changed my mind.

You'll probley need to move spring mounts, shock mounts, brake lines. You'll need larger lug bolts, u-bolts, maybe u-joint, while your 6-lug rims will still work.

The 14SF should be fine for 35's in mud. Look at axle chart for more info and pics. Good Luck /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

 

[zcarczar]

I run a 14bsf rear, im running 4.88's, a detroit and 35's to 37's. I havent broken a shaft yet and im very hard on my truck. I think the 14bsf rear's are good choices for guys running smaller tires yet dont need a FF rear. oh and FYI the 6 lug versions came in mainly Z71's, light duty 2500's and heavy duty 1500's

 

[XHitman396]

they make 8-6 lug adapters? where might i find one of these things, and do they work on full floaters, and does anyone know for sure the difference in clearance of the ff and sf differentials? ive seen that adapter for the hi lift to curved bumper in magazine and online, but dont think i trust my bumper, kinda flimsy for all that weight. thanks again...

 

[big83chevy4x4]

tonyp makes the adapters. you could pm him /forums/images/graemlins/deal.gif