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High Squeal from engine when idling and in drive when gas pedal is pressed

handloader90

handloader90

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A little history on this problem.

Long version:

When I fire my truck up in the morning it fires up fine jumps to about 1200 RPM and shuts off, fire it up again and it jumps to 1200 again and I gently tap the skinny pedal and it goes down to about 300 RPM or so then I barely press the pedal and get it to about 500 RPM, over the next 10-15 minutes it warms up and has a very steady idle of 750.

Truck has been running like this for a long time, never had trouble out of it (besides teaching my Wife how to fire it up:haha:). I've been told it's carb problems, but my carb is a newer carb, floats adjusted properly and fuel air ratio is dead on, all vacuum lines are proper. So I just run it as is.

Short Version:

Truck whines/squeals very loudly if the truck hasn't warmed up and I give her a little gas. Usually goes away when she warms up. Tonight I fired the truck up after about two days of not using it. Had to throw some gas in the carb to get it to fire up and it squealed very loudly when the gas pedal was pushed. Got to driving around and it was squealing like a pig. Went away after awhile but I would like to figure this issue out.

I'm under the assumption that it's my power steering pump (it squeaks when I turn anyway) the sounds are VERY similar.

Looking for some advice.
 
The battery gets drained when you crank the engine,and then needs to be recharged to make up for what you just took out of it--the alternator senses the battery's need for recharging,so the regulator tells it to boost up the amps and voltage,and thus puts a load on the belt,which squeals in protest..once the charge is built back up in the battery,the regulator tapers off the amount of charge and amps,and the load is reduced on the belt,and it stops squealing..

The belt shouldn't squeal if its tightened properly,is not worn thin,glazed or oily,and the pulleys are in decent condition inside the sheaves..

My 85 Burb with a 6.2 sounds like the belt is burning off it after I first start it,it was a new Gates belt,and tightening helped none,--after several minutes the squealing suddenly stops ,almost as if a switch was flipped--it must be the regulator cutting back on the alternator output..the cold start advance and high idle solenoid on the diesels does seem to suck a lot of amps,once the engine comes off high idle the squeal stops instantly--but it'll squeal if you rev the engine up too,until its fully warmed up..

I have looked at the pulleys and the one on the alternator is worn pretty badly,its even got a bluish tint to it from getting hot..I'm going to try and find one that will accept a 1/2" V-belt instead of a 7/16,the rest of the engines pulleys will accept a 1/2" one..then I'll upgrade the belt to a 1/2" one and see if that changes anything..the 6.2's with v-belts had problems with the belt "whipping" between the long span between the crank and alternator pulleys,I think thats is why they put serpentine belts on them eventually..
 
although this setup is missing a pulley just under the AC

attachment.php
 
diesel4me said:
The battery gets drained when you crank the engine,and then needs to be recharged to make up for what you just took out of it--the alternator senses the battery's need for recharging,so the regulator tells it to boost up the amps and voltage,and thus puts a load on the belt,which squeals in protest..once the charge is built back up in the battery,the regulator tapers off the amount of charge and amps,and the load is reduced on the belt,and it stops squealing..

The belt shouldn't squeal if its tightened properly,is not worn thin,glazed or oily,and the pulleys are in decent condition inside the sheaves..

My 85 Burb with a 6.2 sounds like the belt is burning off it after I first start it,it was a new Gates belt,and tightening helped none,--after several minutes the squealing suddenly stops ,almost as if a switch was flipped--it must be the regulator cutting back on the alternator output..the cold start advance and high idle solenoid on the diesels does seem to suck a lot of amps,once the engine comes off high idle the squeal stops instantly--but it'll squeal if you rev the engine up too,until its fully warmed up..

I have looked at the pulleys and the one on the alternator is worn pretty badly,its even got a bluish tint to it from getting hot..I'm going to try and find one that will accept a 1/2" V-belt instead of a 7/16,the rest of the engines pulleys will accept a 1/2" one..then I'll upgrade the belt to a 1/2" one and see if that changes anything..the 6.2's with v-belts had problems with the belt "whipping" between the long span between the crank and alternator pulleys,I think thats is why they put serpentine belts on them eventually..
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. So what I'm experiencing is not a "pressing" issue? I will check the pulley's tomorrow and the tautness of the belts.
 
as above, and yes you got carb problems...mainly choke/idle setting issues
 
Could you point me in the right direction on these carb issues?

I'm running an Edelbrock 1406, 600 CFM, Electric Choke.

Choke is grounded properly. Haven't tested the hot wire to see if its getting power.

Air/fuel ratio is on point. Once the truck has warmed up it idles steady at 750 RPM, steady being the hand on the tach does not move whatsoever.

Haven't really touched the high idle screw.
 
4xcrazy said:
It'll work that way, but that's not the way it was originally routed. :waytogo:
Click to expand...

Oh yeah, thought it looked funky when I posted it. Needs more belt wrapped around the crank, then to the PS pump. That's how mine is plus the small pulley under the AC.

Handloader90: I'm just messing with ya. I went serpentine and am super happy with it. Nothing like waking all my neighbors in the morning. I hated V-belts but understand they can be easier to fix on the trail.

Also, Zim is exactly right. Everything else might be good but the choke/linkage/spring/idle circuits are off. :waytogo:
 
handloader90 said:
Could you point me in the right direction on these carb issues?

I'm running an Edelbrock 1406, 600 CFM, Electric Choke.

Choke is grounded properly. Haven't tested the hot wire to see if its getting power.

Air/fuel ratio is on point. Once the truck has warmed up it idles steady at 750 RPM, steady being the hand on the tach does not move whatsoever.

Haven't really touched the high idle screw.
Click to expand...
it sounds like your choke plate is not operating properly....it should just be closed when cold (<80* or so) and fully open after about 5 minutes of warm up...there are a ton of videos/forum info on this subject for that carb, but basically it should start up after a couple strokes of the throttle pedal to set the choke idle and give it some gas, then after about 5 minutes or less the choke coil should expand to open the choke plate fully. Also there should be a mechanical or vacuum pulloff to open that choke blade slightly when the engine starts cranking and is started...than allows some air into the engine...if the choke blade stays closed it wont start and stay running because of no air.

here is a good starting point for that carb... http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive/misc/tech-center/carb-tech-videos.shtml
 
Ohhh. Gotcha. You're referring to spinning/ adjusting the black choke thing (I don't know the proper terminology) left or right to adjust the plate in the very top (where I pour gas)?

If so I know exactly what your talking about. I've adjusted it before on my old 1406 on my old engine.

Now that you bring it up I don't think I've touched this one at all.

Thanks!
 
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