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High steer or regular method? "UPDATE"

Which one would you do?

  • High steer

    Votes: 22 52.4%

  • regular way

    Votes: 13 31.0%

  • I'm naked

    Votes: 7 16.7%
  • Total voters
    42
blazindorito

blazindorito

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Location
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I currently need to purcase to finish the high steer or regular way. I have read some articles and read some online comments but I am confused.

Some say that the regular way is better and the other half say that High Steer is better. What do you think? I already have everything installed to do the high steer or leave the tierod in the regualr place.
 
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I chose not to go with high steer due to my tire size and driving style. I searched and found a lot of broken knuckles from high steer and 44" tires (the size I'm running). I can deal with a bent tie rod a lot easier than a broken knuckle out on the trail. IMHO the clearance isn't worth the possibility of breakage. However, I've seen high steer work well with 38" and smaller tires. I guess it depends on tire size, terrain and driving style.
 
Now you know what I mean about peoples opinion being 50/50.

Do you think it's that not enough people run this set up so therefore there isn't enough info on this? I will be using 37" tires and a 6" lift. Eventually I would move up 42" tires or 44".
 
I know ~6 people running high steer on 42's that have never broken a (Chevy) knuckle.

I've heard of it, just never seen it.
 
It is more common to brake a ford knuckle than the chevy. The ford ones are not as thick where the steering arms mount
 
I have yet to see or hear of a chevy knuckle broken under "normal" 4 wheeling.

I would just go to highsteer and be done with it.
 
High steer its so nice to hit your front diff on a rock and not have to worry about your tie rod being down there and being bent.
 
I run it & love it. You already have it Run the High-Steer!

The only downfall I can see is that with low lift & 56" fronts & it was hard for me to clear the engine crossmember. I am running a tubular one w/ a caddy engine, so it is not a common problem.
 
boz42 said:
The only downfall I can see is that with low lift & 56" fronts & it was hard for me to clear the engine crossmember. I am running a tubular one w/ a caddy engine, so it is not a common problem.
Click to expand...

What does "low lift" mean?

I'm running at ~stock suspension height and my draglink doesn't hit the engine crossmember. I wouldn't think a high steer tie rod would be any closer :dunno:
 
with highsteer isnt there problems with the drag link hitting?
 
I built a tierod out of DOM and just let it hit the rocks. It was also easier to mount the ram to. High steer is fine but might be overkill for most people.
 
protechk5 said:
with highsteer isnt there problems with the drag link hitting?
Click to expand...

Htting the tie rod?
It can, if you have a lot of flex combined with moving your axle forward and low lift. I have my axle in stock position with 6" lift and the tierod doesn't hit my drag link. It comes pretty close to the pitman arm if your headed dead straight ahead. If I ever move my axle forward, ill go back to the stock position tie rod vs the hi steer rod due to pitman arm clearance.
 
I remover the highsteer because of contact with the springs. I was also uncomfortable with mounting a ram to my springplates.

How do you use your truck? How do you wheel?
 
Leper said:
I remover the highsteer because of contact with the springs. I was also uncomfortable with mounting a ram to my springplates.

How do you use your truck? How do you wheel?
Click to expand...

Yeah im doing hydro assist now and i was thinking about doing hi steer as well, but i dont like the idea mounting it to the spring plates either.
 
I don't think mounting a hydro assist ram to the spring plate is a good idea either but that doesn't you can't have hydro assist and high steer. You just have to make something for the ram to mount to.
 
I run the tie rod in the stock location. mostly because I am cheap and the parts to go to full hi-steer are expensive. I have seen knuckles break. its a nightmare. both times we got a little lucky and the extractions were not terrible.

mounting hydro is easier with the tie rod in the stock location and there is no chance of tie rod to draglink interference.

some pics for you.

ford knuckle. hi-steer, hydro assist and 39.5 swampers.
rausch7-14-07026.jpg


dodge knuckle, same as my chevy as far as I could see. hi-steer, hydro assist and 44" boggers.
rausch520009.jpg
 
I'm the 2nd pict above. No 44" boggers with high steer and stock knuckles wont work for long.:rolleyes: I've since switched to Reid Racing (Dedenbear) knuckles and I'm still a little concerned about breakage. You're asking them to do something they were never designed to do. If your truck is on the light side running small tires (38s and down) you should be fine.
Also remember that by running high steer you're reducing your turning force by 30%. Because the ball joints are closer to the king pins which will reduce your leverage
Because of the above reasons, I'm going back to the stock locations or I'm going to full hydro.
 
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