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High steer or regular method? "UPDATE"

Which one would you do?

  • High steer

    Votes: 22 52.4%

  • regular way

    Votes: 13 31.0%

  • I'm naked

    Votes: 7 16.7%
  • Total voters
    42
Thanks guys for all your suggestions ad input. I think that for now I will run it the regular way. I don't want to worry about knuckles breaking or less turning radius. I want to wheel for a while before I have to spend a lot of money to fix things.
 
blazindorito said:
Thanks guys for all your suggestions ad input. I think that for now I will run it the regular way. I don't want to worry about knuckles breaking or less turning radius. I want to wheel for a while before I have to spend a lot of money to fix things.
Click to expand...

Highsteer does NOT reduce your turning radius unless you have a poorly designed set of arms.

I run the ORD Highsteer setup and the turning radius is better than stock ever was.

Personally, if you're going to spend the money to do crossover I'd say go all the way to highsteer. Or as least buy from a vendor who's crossover arm also supports highsteer conversion. If you decide to buy the driver's side arm later on you haven't wasted any money.

:deal:
 
I chose not to go with high steer only because of the cost of drilling the second knuckle and the second arm. Aslo as a speed bump master i really dont need it.

2180334_109_full.jpg
 
I went High Steer instead. I already had the knuckles drilled and I said what the hell.

I had death wobble before I went high steer and ram assist. I don't have it now but when I hit a bump or something I can feel the left side of the truck want to get the Death Wobble. It doesn't get it but i can barely feel it.

The steering is also really loose. I constantly have to turnt he wheel left and right to drive in a straight line.

This weekend I retorqued the bolts to 150lbs on the U BOLTS, Checked all tie rods, and everything under there. The axles were gone thru before I bought them. I am thinking that it might be the gear box that needs to be gone thru.

I am running out of ideas to fix this. It doesn't feel safe to drive on streets.

A lot of WANDERING could it be my castor angle?
 
Last edited:
makovai said:
I chose not to go with high steer only because of the cost of drilling the second knuckle and the second arm. Aslo as a speed bump master i really dont need it.

2180334_109_full.jpg
Click to expand...


Why do you have a bar going across the top of the frame above the springs? Not the cross over steering bar but the one above that going straight across from the left frame to the right side of the frame.

Thanks for all your help fellas.
 
I have a couple questions:

1. What's the difference between "Hi-Steer" and Crossover Steer? :confused: I guess I naively thought they were pretty much the same thing.


2. Specifically, what do you mean when you guys talk about the benefits of staying with the stock GM steering setup "depending on the wheeling/driving you do"?
 
blazindorito said:
Why do you have a bar going across the top of the frame above the springs? Not the cross over steering bar but the one above that going straight across from the left frame to the right side of the frame.

Thanks for all your help fellas.
Click to expand...

I have a broken frame at the steering box. (been fixed but not very well) and the guy before me cut the frame to put a winch bumper on it. the bar is there to try and stiffen up the front of the frame. I really need a new frame. Or a frame off to do some serious work to this one.
 
I had cross over already and being the ORD high steer capable arms were already there, upgrading to high steer was almost mandatory due to the kind of wheeling we do, which is 98% in the rocks.
Notice the diff cover and you can see why.

Since I busted my Ferd knuckle, I've installed a set of Dedenbears both with full rebuild kits.
(eliminated any death wobble all together)

Seeing the difference between a stock knuckle and the Reid's I feel way better about doing those front digs.

RCSept07244Rausch.jpg
 
Snoozer said:
I have a couple questions:

1. What's the difference between "Hi-Steer" and Crossover Steer? :confused: I guess I naively thought they were pretty much the same thing.
Click to expand...

High steer mounts the tie rod above the leaf springs to keep it from getting hit by things. Look at the pictures of vtblazers truck (a few posts up) and you will see that his tie rod is above the springs.


Snoozer said:
2. Specifically, what do you mean when you guys talk about the benefits of staying with the stock GM steering setup "depending on the wheeling/driving you do"?
Click to expand...

There really aren't many benefits to the stock style steering. Its cheaper and it has more steering force than crossover (by ~30%). Crossover is better in every other way i.e. actually being able to steer when the suspension flexes, way less bump steer, etc.
 
I've heard that high steer is a mistake with 10b/D44 axles due to the extra leverage on the knuckles. Opinions?
 
BGKYK5 said:
I've heard that high steer is a mistake with 10b/D44 axles due to the extra leverage on the knuckles. Opinions?
Click to expand...

Its the same deal that was discussed earlier in this thread about dana 60 knuckles. You are stressing the knuckle in a way it was not designed for and lots of people have broken them because of it.
 
BGKYK5 said:
Even worse on the smaller axles I assume?
Click to expand...

Not necessarily because the tire size on the smaller axles is generally smaller.

Either way you have the potential to break knuckles.

I've never seen anyone break a knuckle with high steer but have heard of it. I wouldn't hesitate to run high steer on and Chevy dana 60, and AFAIK Chevy dana 44 knuckles aren't particularly weak so you may be ok there too.
 
I dont think the larger axles are less prone than others..

Alot of it depends on your driving style. Some guys just WILL NOT try to find another line in the rocks and will break things trying to get through. Last time we were in Tellico (sep 07) we saw a k5 that had sheared his high steer arm off of his 60 some how.

If you get a tire embedded in something w/ the weight of the rig on it (downhill) and try to steer.... something will break. Its a truck.. not a tank.

I have yet to see a knuckle break like the above pics though.


I will be running high steer.
 
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