Highboy steering

[thatK30guy]

You are contradicting yourself here. Full Hydro means no more mechanical linkage after the steering shaft. A full hydro system uses a orbital valve in place of the factory steering box and the only connection is the steering shaft from the column to control fluid flow through the 4 hydraulic hoses which attach to the pump and ram. Like others have said i think you need to keep the orbital portion of the stock system and replace the ram with a PSC ram and make whatever modifcations neccesary to the ram to limit travel (if needed). Dodge did use a saginaw steering box bolted to an adapter plate which bolted to the frame like someone else here already said so that would be an option on how to mount a true FULL HYDRO orbital valve WITHOUT modifying the frame one bit. Once an orbital valve is in place of the stock steering box the rest is easy.

Scott, somewhere I saw an orbital valve that had threaded stubs on both sides and that gave me the idea to mount the valve to the body up by the column and then shorten a shaft to fit between the valve and gear box. This way if a hose goes out or something, you'd still have steering capabilities with the manual setup.

 

[4X4HIGH]

Scott, somewhere I saw an orbital valve that had threaded stubs on both sides and that gave me the idea to mount the valve to the body up by the column and then shorten a shaft to fit between the valve and gear box. This way if a hose goes out or something, you'd still have steering capabilities with the manual setup.

Pretty sure there would be a problem with the speed of the mechanical versus hydro not being the same speed. With hydro assist that problem becomes evident if you need to make a "PANIC" move if the ram diameter isn't choosen properly. The 1.5" ram is best for street driving as it moves the fastest over a larger bore ram but at the expense of lower power level.

 

[Corey 78K5]

I had an idea to get a thick plate made and holes drilled on both sides to be tapped and accept the bolt pattern on the stock frame on one side and tapped holes on the other side to accept the new gear box. Thing is, I'm not sure if that would be considered safe or strong if the bolts don't protrude all the way thru and accept a nut.

What I had in my mind was on the box side of the plate was studs welded in. I would drill holes all the way through the plate and weld the studs on both sides of the plate. You could even add a few more studs for some safety "straps" as well. If there are existing holes on a near by crossmember you could do a brace as well.

On a side note. A guy could probably make a few dollars if he had a way of making Saginaw steering box's with the mounting side matching other manufactures frames.

 

[thatK30guy]

On a side note. A guy could probably make a few dollars if he had a way of making Saginaw steering box's with the mounting side matching other manufactures frames.

This idea I like. For the HB's, the box would have to be very small since there isn't much room beween the radiator support and crossmember.

Oughta be someone out there who can take the time to mill out a billet into a small box to fit whatever internals you give him.