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Hill 4 Wheel Drive extended shackles

nvrenuf

Holy crap, it's running!
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Who is running THESE? Are you happy with them? Any adverse effects related to them?

I know there is a Product Review on them but whose truck did they go on? Is this same truck still running them? Was it the UAV?
 
Yep, they were used on the 'old school' UAV, I remember when that review was new to the site... Not sure what the overall opinion was on them, but I know he runs ORD shackles now /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
 
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These Shackles will provide approximately 1" extra front lift

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2" longer than stock is a bit extreme for me; I don't like having shims on my springs.
 
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2" longer than stock is a bit extreme for me; I don't like having shims on my springs.

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That's one of the reasons I am researching them, I hate shims and try to avoid using them.

I want to beef up the front shackles and I like the cross bar in the Hill units but I'm concerned about going too far. The ORD parts are nice but the only benefit is the material thickness (no reinforcing cross bar), not length (89-91 shackles are a 1/2" longer than earlier models) where the Hill's could give me approx an additional 1/2" of height.
 
That "reinforcement" is going to keep the bolt from shifting up and down and inhibit flex I'd bet.

Those are a waste of money IMO, i'd much rather just make my own (and I did, cost me $7)
 
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I have them, but I also have dropped spring hangers. They are very beefy. How much lift do you have?

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My plan is for 6" springs, a Zero Rate (to push the axle 1.5" forward) and the shackles. My goal is for 8" of lift.
 
the ord shackles are pretty nice/strong also.they come with all mounting bolts and bushings.79 dollars shiped i think i paid with the ungreasable bushings and bolts.
 
If you decide to go with the Hill kit let me know I have a set with out bushings will let go real cheap /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
HAd them, liked them. WOuldn't buy from them guys ever again!!!! Enjoy the wait and lies.....
 
I bought a 8' long stick of 3/8" x 2" hot rolled from the scrap yard for like $5. It is enough for dozens of shackles. Cut to length, drill 2 holes...your done. I made some 1" longer then stock and I think they are too long...I think I'm going to make some 1/2" longer then stock. I am also in the process of putting in 9/16" bolts for the shackle so I will have all the bolts be the same size.

Lift springs come with bushings, so you just need to buy the frame mount bushings, a few bolts, some 3/4" tube that a 9/16" bolt will fit thru, and a 3/4" drill bit. I'm going to drill out the bushings so I can use the bigger sleeve/bolts. Would still cost less then either Hill or ORD ones and work better. I'm also not a big fan of greased bolts. I'm going to put a zerk in the spring eyes and in the shackle mount.
 
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I have them, but I also have dropped spring hangers. They are very beefy. How much lift do you have?

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My plan is for 6" springs, a Zero Rate (to push the axle 1.5" forward) and the shackles. My goal is for 8" of lift.

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Well I dont think youd have a problem. I had 10" springs, and had a problem, but with no shims. If you cant find big enough shims, you can get the zero rates machined.
 
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Well I dont think youd have a problem. I had 10" springs, and had a problem, but with no shims. If you cant find big enough shims, you can get the zero rates machined.

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I'm actually coming down from 10's on my overhaul. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

What kind of problems did you have? "Wander" from bad caster angle or something else? /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
 
I think you need to search the relocated shackle threads
those things are waaaaay overpriced

phone a local steel fab shop, order 2" wide flatbar in your choice of thickness, 9" long, punched 7" on center for whatever boltsize you want to run

I paid $20cdn cash
I might try the welded cross bar to see what the difference is
you need at least a 7" center to center to get the springs moving IMO and it seems to be a common length that several have ended up at
 
To drill the poly out to 3/4 you will need a 13/16 bit due to the give in the material. It was still a very tight fit for mine. I have BDS bushing and they are softer (strech more when drilled) so that may be part of it.
 
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What kind of problems did you have? "Wander" from bad caster angle or something else? /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

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No not at all, u joint problems, at the t case, BUT, I also remembered I didnt have a CV joint. /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif
 
That's good news! /forums/images/graemlins/peace.gif

I also don't have a CV, just a single 1350 on each end of the front shaft. The only problems I had were clearance from poor shaft angle (10" + D60 + 4spd) but after some grinding everything worked fine.

Thanks for all the input! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
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To drill the poly out to 3/4 you will need a 13/16 bit due to the give in the material. It was still a very tight fit for mine. I have BDS bushing and they are softer (strech more when drilled) so that may be part of it.

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Interesting... /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
The frame bushings I got are energy suspension. They are VERY hard. The ones in the springs are whatever comes with TC springs. I have heard freezing them will help. I just bought 9/16-1" bits so I should be good if I need to go up a bit. I plan on drilling and tapping the spring eye for a zerk and putting in a cut up piece of an aluminum can to keep the grease from coming out the gap where it wraps around.
 
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