CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Holes in hardtop

Slade001

1/2 ton status
 Premium
Joined
Aug 27, 2012
Posts
295
Reaction score
14
Location
New York but NOT NYC
I recently purchased a replacement hardtop, however it has holes in the top where it appears to have had a spoiler and it was removed. I need some advice as to how to fill the holes and make it ready for paint. Any advice would be helpful. Thank you.
 
I've read that Bondo is no good for repairing fiberglass.

To Dueling = Have you used Dura glass before? Is it easy to use and is it paintable?
 
a hole should be feathered back at least a few inches, and repaired with a few layers of fiberglass mat and resin, from both sides of the hole (inside-outside) fill the repair area with a small patch of mat about 2" diameter and make the next couple layers of mat a little bigger in diameter with each layer. Get those layers close to the final level of finished surface then use body filler to finish the repair.
 
I've read that Bondo is no good for repairing fiberglass.

To Dueling = Have you used Dura glass before? Is it easy to use and is it paintable?


Stuffs great:waytogo:

rust11.jpg


17D1177C-3A43-45AC-82E2-F76633E2BE2F-968-000000AF44B57C0C_zps9bbb14db.jpg


AC0040F5-2CEA-4420-91C8-A14161C12D1A-968-000000AF4A158B74_zpse432ada8.jpg
 
Without sounding like an idiot, what do I use to actually fill the hole? I can look inside and see the "roll bar" that is over the rear window. Thers a large void in there.
 
Those holes in my seal surface were pretty big....


I just kept stuffing the stuff in. The fiberglass allows it to fill bigger voids
 
Without sounding like an idiot, what do I use to actually fill the hole? I can look inside and see the "roll bar" that is over the rear window. Thers a large void in there.
How big is the hole?
A hardtop wouldn't matter so much as how its sealed on the inside as a tailgate would...a hardtop isn't exposed to road salt, and rust accelerators like a tailgate would be, and also being fiberglass not prone to rust as metal is.
The hole should be plugged with something solid, that is why it is structurally better to bond the fiberglass with surrounding fiberglass such as mat....Not saying the fiberglass'd stranded filler won't work fine, but in an area such as a tailgate it needs to be sealed inside and out to prevent penetration of the elements getting in between the new and the old, and having the same issue in a few years if left to extreme conditions (such as salt).
 
Filling sheet metal and filling fiberglass are two completely different things.

If you just have some small screw holes that don't go all the way through the top, then the fix is easier. I think the approach depends on whether you are keeping and matching the factory texture or if you will be going with a smooth top. With a smooth top, the strategy zimmer describes is great, although possibly overkill if they are just small holes (he may be thinking of fixing Corvettes and not the massive slab of fiberglass that is the back of your hardtop or he may know better than me). If you want the texture, I would keep the repair area smaller, just fill them up with resin, do a minimal sand when it cures, prime and then paint.

You can use polyester fillers if you are just filling small holes and it's not a structural thing. Dura Glass or Bondo-glass are just polyester (Bondo) with glass fibers in them and they will work, but are just harder to get smooth. I did some work with that on my hard top a few years ago and it is still fine. Basically I filled in the seams between the top and lower portions of the shell to make it smooth all over. There's a thread in the body shop if you're interested, but my point is just that is hasn't cracked or fallen off yet or anything.
 
I have taken some pictures but I am not sure how to post them. So here goes my description. There are 6 holes across the top (approximately the size of a nickel). Five of them only go through the 1st layer. One of them (the center one, approximately in the middle of the long axis of the top DOES actually go all the way through the top. It’s right along the center seam (on the interior) of the top. I plan to keep the top with the "factory finish" i.e. smooth. Just roughing the surface enough to allow the primer and paint to adhere.
 
I would use (tiger hair) or short strand fiberglass filler no need for mat on that goop it in there and sand it on the bottom holes stuff putty up in holes and hold it in with masking tape so it doesnt run out of the holes. Prep it first sand with a tough grit like atleast go or 60 to give it something to hold onto clean off sanding dust then put on filler. After it hardens sand it with 80 grit til pretty flat. Then top coat with your favotite polyester filler to make it really straight and smooth. Prime then paint.
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom