Holley carb adjustments

[RootBreaker]

Ok so who out there wants to come over and adjust my carb?
I just cant seem to get it right...
it took me from 2004-2006 to realize there was a high idle screw!!!!!
What was happening is I would adjust the timing and the truck would idle at 2800rpms
so I backed the timing down to 1000rpm....
drove the truck that way from 2004-2006... found that high idle screw.. unscrewed it all the way and now the truck idles
at 1000rpms on its own... still a bit high I believe
I do not know how to adjust the air fuel screws.... I think the floats are right.. I will recheck that..
but I cannot drive the truck until I get this thing adjusted because I just realized something REALLY BAD!!!!
2 nights ago I started my truck to get it back on the road... well I got the truck started and about 8 minutes in I noticed my oil gauge isnt working.. well since I put the truck on the road in 2004 I noticed it was intermittent...
so no biggie.... I kept working on the truck. I was trying to get the power steering pump to start leaking so I could try and figure out where it was coming from... but in the back of my mind the oil gauge was scaring me.. so to be safe I figured id shut the truck off...
Well I checked the oil and it was at the full line (have not changed the oil since 2004 as the truck is a driveway queen)
well the oil looked funny.... so I cleaned the dipstick and put it back in and checked... the oil is wattery... so now im thinking the vortec heads I bought may have a crack!!!!!!
well yesterday we were going to the pine hill tavern for all you can eat hotwings... well I got home and changed the oil first..... got some of the oil on my hands and it was really wattery... well I wiped them off with a rag and my hands came super clean.... well that is odd... so I called my father (mechanic) and he said I had too much gas in my oil..... GAHHHH well I remember when I went through inspection back in 2004 that fuel was pissing in the secondaries at idle!!!!!
so anyhow.. I have to get this carb adjusted.... and before I pay a shop wanted to know if someone can come here and school me on holley adjusting.....

 

[86chevred1tun]

you might want to call holley tech sup @ 1-270-781-9741. I have them stored in my cell, they can be pretty helpful give them a call and they can probably school you a little bit.

 

[RootBreaker]

aight after much googling and all...

I did the following:
1. screwed the air/fuel screws in all the way in.. then out 1 1/4 turn...both of them.....
2. turned the fast idle screw up ( had it disabled or backed out all the way)

so fired the truck up...
was a bit high on fast idle... so backed it out a bit..


now at idle when cold I am at 1500 rpm as per the manual

although when the truck warms up it is still a bit high.... so high my idle screw is backed out all the way and im at 1200rpm...

so will call holley next week and see what to do next..
I think my choke is not closing enough when it is off.. If I push on the plate and tap the gas I can then press it closed more... and it kicks down to about 900 rpms....

all in all she sounds pretty good.....

 

[Thunder]

Sounds like you need to adjust the choke. There is a black round cover held on with 3 scrwes.Loosen the screws and rotate the cover till the choke opens fully when the engine is at operating temp. I donr rember why way to rotate the cover. But when you move it you will feel spring tension. You want less tension on the choke so it wil open fully.
There is also a screw on the side of the carb where the linkage hooks up. That is the idle screw. With the engine warm and the choke is open fully use that screw to adjust base idle 650-800 RPM depending where you like it.
Once you get the base idle set then you can adjust the A/F screws.

With the engine running at idle. Back them in and out. you should see the RPMs increase and decrease. Back the screw out untill RPMs drop. Then slowly screw in 1/4 turn at a time. RPM should go up. Contuniue slowly turning screw in till the idle rpm drop again. Then back out 1/4 turn and you are done.

 

[RootBreaker]

Sounds like you need to adjust the choke. There is a black round cover held on with 3 scrwes.Loosen the screws and rotate the cover till the choke opens fully when the engine is at operating temp. I donr rember why way to rotate the cover. But when you move it you will feel spring tension. You want less tension on the choke so it wil open fully.
There is also a screw on the side of the carb where the linkage hooks up. That is the idle screw. With the engine warm and the choke is open fully use that screw to adjust base idle 650-800 RPM depending where you like it.
Once you get the base idle set then you can adjust the A/F screws.

With the engine running at idle. Back them in and out. you should see the RPMs increase and decrease. Back the screw out untill RPMs drop. Then slowly screw in 1/4 turn at a time. RPM should go up. Contuniue slowly turning screw in till the idle rpm drop again. Then back out 1/4 turn and you are done.

thanks for the reply... yeah.... it is weird..one problem I have had with this carb is that the idle screw is backed ALL the way out..... and it is still idling up some...


also I was told with the engine cold.... hit full throttle and hold it... adjust the choke by rotating the cap until the choke is only open about 1/4"...

 

[Thunder]

Have you checked all the vaccum lines? PVC valve? carb base gasket ect? A vaccum leak will cause high idle.

 

[Chevy305]

Is this carb a Holley truck avenger? If so it should be very straight foward to tune. First thing first, be sure the timeing is where its supposed to be, forget about trying to set the timing to idle speed.

As far as idle speed, are you trying to make adjustments to the carb while its in fast idle? If you can't get it to come out of fast idle then you have a choke problem. Start your truck and let it warm up to opporating temp. Take the air filter off and look at the choke on the passenger side. You should see a little red arm in between the choke and carb, make sure the little arm is pushed all the way down to be sure it is off of fast idle and make sure the choke plate is all the way open. If not you need to adjust the choke.

The next item is to check your float level. There are little sight plugs on the passenger side of the carb. With the engine running unscrew the sight plugs and the level should be just below the level of the threads. If you shake the truck alittle some gas should dribble out. If you need to adjust it then get a screw driver and a 5/8 wrench. On top of the bowls you will see a screw with a nut right beneath it. Make sure the truck is off for this, put the wrench on the nut and loosen the screw slightly. *I beleive to raise the level turn the nut in, and lower turn it out - I'm not 100% sure, it could be the other way around

Also if you said your secondaries are pissing fuel, then it sounds like your secondary float is stuck open. Tap it with a hammer and it should come loose. If not then you need to relpace the needle seat.

I'll continue later, but this should give you a good start

 

[RootBreaker]

You should see a little red arm in between the choke and carb, make sure the little arm is pushed all the way down to be sure it is off of fast idle and make sure the choke plate is all the way open. If not you need to adjust the choke.

I'll continue later, but this should give you a good start

thanks...got around to trying it... we found out the red arm is not going down.... if we manually push it then the idle kicks off....
the fast idle screw is backed all the way out too...

so not sure but will call holley tomorrow...

the problem was push the red arm down and the choke would come off. but hit the gas and it would rev back up high again....
but if you drop the red arm hard enough... not too hard though.. it locks in place then seems to be fine... you can rev away... and it is good.. however I feel that the choke is then disabled at that point....