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Holley Truck Avenger tuning tips and review

It does pop up in a search...

If you happen to see this thread brought up again I'm curious if these methods would work on an AMC 360 with an Edlebrock split bore intake?

Thank you for your input...
 
I don't know for certain that the specifics will work, but in general it should be the same principles. I know they advertise these carbs are ready to run out of the box, but they still have have a lot of room for tuning. And I hate to say it's an on going thing. I still have to re-tune mine every year or so. But I tell you the difference is night and day after re-tuning the mixture. Either way I'm still running mine and I doubt I'm going to be changing anytime soon.
 
mrk5 said:
I don't know for certain that the specifics will work, but in general it should be the same principles. I know they advertise these carbs are ready to run out of the box, but they still have have a lot of room for tuning. And I hate to say it's an on going thing. I still have to re-tune mine every year or so. But I tell you the difference is night and day after re-tuning the mixture. Either way I'm still running mine and I doubt I'm going to be changing anytime soon.
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just rewired my truck.. ENTIRE TRUCK... and i have to re-adjust mine.. seems i only had 4v going to choke from a 12v source.. major issues.. so mine is really out of wack..

i too will not be getting rid of it.. once dialed in.. they rock!!!!!!!!!!! :whistle:
 
thorne52 said:
holley will replace the -1 with a -2 without a resipt for $75 + shipping!
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mine is the -2 as i had them swap it out.. i had a receipt!!!!! :thumb:

now i have to figure out if the .35mm discharge nozzles are too big for me as i added them.. also the accelerator pump cam is wrong.. thank goodness i bought the entire kit... :whistle:
 
Last time I messed with the accelerator pump cam, I ended up drilling my own mounting hole to get the right action. I think the settings I end up needing get a little goofy compared to the "norm" because of the altitude we live and play at, ranges from 5,000ft to 10,000ft. When we go to Blazer Bash in Moab the altitude is about 4,000ft and I can tell a difference in how the truck runs.
 
well i took the 35 discharge nozzle out.. and put the stock 28 back in...
well now the huge ball of flames is gone.. still hesitates BADLY... and also still does sputter some.....
not sure what to try... maybe call holley?

any holley guys around my area that want to help me take a stab at getting it dialed in?
 
Nice write up.

I was messing with my Holley this weekend and found that if you adjust the front screw/spring (accelerator pump thingy) this will help things drastically. I was having a bad stumble off the line. I raised the top lock nut 2 turns and this made a nite / day difference.

I also have a vacuum gauge mounted in my engine bay and use it to adjust the A/F mix. I try to get it up to 20hg if possible, but being a worn out motor, etc. I can get 16-17hg which is pretty decent (from what ive read)
 
try a nozzle between 28 and 35. The way to tell how big a nozzle to use is to increase the size until when you blip the throttle hard you see a slight black haze or puff when watching the exhaust, then go back down one size.
 
badmix said:
Nice write up.

I was messing with my Holley this weekend and found that if you adjust the front screw/spring (accelerator pump thingy) this will help things drastically. I was having a bad stumble off the line. I raised the top lock nut 2 turns and this made a nite / day difference.

I also have a vacuum gauge mounted in my engine bay and use it to adjust the A/F mix. I try to get it up to 20hg if possible, but being a worn out motor, etc. I can get 16-17hg which is pretty decent (from what ive read)
Click to expand...


remember which way you went?

Chevy305 said:
try a nozzle between 28 and 35. The way to tell how big a nozzle to use is to increase the size until when you blip the throttle hard you see a slight black haze or puff when watching the exhaust, then go back down one size.
Click to expand...

yeah that is not cheap... and then you are left with old parts you wont use!!!!!!
 
I think I turned the nylon nut counter clockwise, which would be like your taking it off. Just support the bottom nut or it all all turn.
 
noticed i didnt post it earlier... here it is...
i just read this...

http://www.stockcarracing.com/techarticles/scrp_0601_holley_accelerator_pump_adjustment/index.html


more on holleys in general..



now back to my original post
mrk5 said:
In the picture below, note where the arrow is pointing and you will see there is a counter-sunk screw head. In the picture the screw is in the #1 hole. Below this hole you can see another open hole, it is the #2 hole.

Accel-Cam.jpg


On the blue pump cam and most of the other pump cams there are two holes and they correspond to the holes on the throttle lever. Top hole is #1 and the bottom hole is #2. So to install the blue cam in the #2 hole you put the screw through the bottom hole on both the throttle lever and pump cam.

After doing this you need to verify that the override spring is adjusted properly. Make sure that the pump lever to pump cam clearance is set correctly. Some people misinterpret the .015" clearance figure specified by Holley. There must be a minimum of .015" extra travel at WOT available to the pump diaphragm.

At idle there should be Zero clearance between the pump cam and the pump accelerator linkage arm. Any free play at this point can cause a hesitation even with the correct cam and shooter installed. I always add 1\2 to 1 turn preload to the pump spring after adjusting to zero clearance. Seems to help sharpen the pump shot. Pump shot should be immediate and sharp with the slightest movement of the throttle. Dribbling is an indication of a problem.



Hope this helps some of you fellow CK5ers.
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hahhahahaha... i didnt realize you used my carb shot!!!!

anyway... im still pestering with this thing... im curious... you point out that i have a screw in hole 1 on lever and cam... what i noticed is that the hole on each.. cam and lever match up... so im confused why it matters... blue cam... use hole 2 in both lever and cam...

im not argueing... just trying to learn.. i have read so much tonight my head hurts.... and remembered you said blue cam....

the other thing for me was that i didnt know you can and should mess with the pump spring.... can you give a more detailed explanation on why and how as i and others like me have no idea what you said above????:whistle:

appreciate it man... i just put my .28 back in.. but after reading.... it is not a "Bigger" shot as one would think... .28 to .35 doesnt give you more fuel... however it gives a "longer" shot.... if i understand that right...

in the link i put in my previous post... they recommend jumping up by 3's... so .28 + .31 + .34 (will keep the .35) + .37...

when i was at a racing store which i will go back to.... he said a .28 to a .35 is a HUGE gap... he said i should try something in between.
 
ahhh post #11
http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=113932


soooo i need parts..
vacuum gauge
.31 discharge nozzle

what i need to do
1. adjust air fuel with vacuum gauge
2. install blue pump cam and use a screw into hole 2 in lever and pump cam
3. adjust the pump cam spring so it kicks in quicker....


i believe #3 is where im missing it....

Im going to do all above.... then see what i got... then maybe put the .35 back in... and if i see how it goes... then will decide if i need the .31... with putting in hardwood floors and doing stuff.. it will be some time... but more to come
 
Nice to find an older thread about how to fix the common problems!
 
For what it's worth I'm only just now looking to retire the Truck Avenger only because I'm retiring the entire truck and building an '89 crew cab. Probably be selling my Truck Avenger soon. It has served me very well.
 
I just bought a used one, to put on my big block. I had one on my prevous big block, but bought it new. Never had any trouble out of it, so I figured I would try it again. But most of what you look up on them people just don't want to try to tune them, and just go back to a q-jet (also a good carb). I prefer a holley just cause I can successfully take them apart and clean them myself.
 
I started out with a '64 C10 in high school 20yrs ago and one of the first things I did was to swap in an Edlebrock intake and Holley carb. So since that point I've messed with Holley type carburetors a lot more than any others. When I first swapped the 350 in to my blazer to replace the 6.2L diesel I went with a stock Qjet. I had tuning trouble with it and I decided to swap in a Holley so I knew what the heck I was doing.
 
well my truck is going to be emissions exempt.. and I am sad I sold my TA... i need to find another. My truck ran so well with it even with slight hesitation and all that stuff....

now I have a qjet on it and no power. It is at the shop getting tuned. I can only do so much and after trying to get through emissions for the last 7 years and failing constantly... I gave up and took it in to have it tuned and inspected. Then the guy told me about the emissions exempt next month so I am stoked and they are going to still adjust the truck. If I am not happy with the performance of the QJet (I dont wheel anymore) I will most likely be looking for another TA 670 or going fuel injection of some sort....

is there anything out there since the TA has come out that is better or is the TA still a good choice?
 
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