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home brew front drive shaft..pics inside

twoslo4five0

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1410 yokes,square and its 38 inches collapsed...45 degrees of angle fully extended
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1410 yokes,square and its 38 inches collapsed...45 degrees of angle fully extended
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I was thinking of building something similar one I do my 56" swap. Can you tell me how you kept the ends square to minimize vibration? Thanks. Oh and nice work btw. :waytogo:
 
I was thinking of building something similar one I do my 56" swap. Can you tell me how you kept the ends square to minimize vibration? Thanks. Oh and nice work btw. :waytogo:

we have the tube in each end and then a coupler/adapter between the tube and the end...so basically its welded in 3 places...as far as vibes go thats all in the eye and just getting everything as flat and level as possible
 
Give us some close up pics of thw welded ends please.
 
Anyone have problems breaking adapters with the square shafts? Are you guys polishing the tubing to reduce the friction when there is power applied? I have thought about building one but my concern is too much friction when power is applied and you compress or unload the suspension, then snap of the bell housing or adapters.
 
Anyone have problems breaking adapters with the square shafts? Are you guys polishing the tubing to reduce the friction when there is power applied? I have thought about building one but my concern is too much friction when power is applied and you compress or unload the suspension, then snap of the bell housing or adapters.

I've been running a square front shaft with likely the weakest adapter (465/205) for a while now and haven't broken it.

I didn't do anything special with the tube. Thinking about a square driveshaft as a 4 spline connection might give you more confidence in it.
 
we made this one with 2 inch outside tubing and 1 inch inside for 2 reasons this time....weight,if you make one out of 2 1/2 and 2 inch thats almost 40 inches long its a heavy sob for sure....also because of my doubler im prolly gonna run into so problems with my 203 crossemeber (using a 203 adapter in front of the 203 range box) and the shaft hitting hopefully by making it smaller and running a hi pin and only 6 inches of lift i wont have to cut and weld a tunnel into my crossmember...


oh and we didnt polish anything...there is about 5 trucks that clarkjw24 has made theese for and they havnt had one failure yet...


oh btw chris your the one who gave me the idea not to run a cv front because you cant get more angle out of it..your idea seemd to be true
 
Anyone have problems breaking adapters with the square shafts? Are you guys polishing the tubing to reduce the friction when there is power applied? I have thought about building one but my concern is too much friction when power is applied and you compress or unload the suspension, then snap of the bell housing or adapters.


I'm running a square DOM front shaft, I use a couple wraps of teflon tape in 2 spots to reduce the friction. Only 3 or 4 wraps is needed and should be replaced once a year. I'm still running this with my 241 with a yoke flange. No issues yet.
 
I'm running a square DOM front shaft, I use a couple wraps of teflon tape in 2 spots to reduce the friction. Only 3 or 4 wraps is needed and should be replaced once a year. I'm still running this with my 241 with a yoke flange. No issues yet.

just regular teflon tape? it actually stays on there?
 
just regular teflon tape? it actually stays on there?

Yup. Wrapped it on, slid the shaft in n' out and got no slippage. :wink1:


That's why it's best to check periodically and replace when necessary but usually lasts a year. You can check each time you have to replace ujoints.
 
That square shaft turned out looking really good, nice work y'all! :waytogo:

Hopefully my doubler won't be bench-bling for too much longer. ;) :haha:
 
I guess I'll chime in a little experience with my square front shaft (2.5" .250" wall outside, 2" .250" wall inside):

Honestly it has worked very well for me. Lots of slip (which I do need, my front springs far exceed the slip the stock shaft could have done), its stout (it has plenty of rock rash on it without a hickup) and its not nearly as poorly balanced as everyone makes it sound.

Maybe I did a better job fitting a square peg into a round hole than other people but I've had mine up to ~55 mph with drive flanges and the square shaft and didn't notice any noticeable vibration. Honestly, I think the truck had worse vibration just from the 4" lift it used to have.

Your experience may vary ;)
 
Can you give us a short write up on how you did this step by step? I have been thinking about doing this but I have been unsure about how. I have a chop saw which I think will give me a nice straight cut. I watched them do it on Extream 4x4 and I think they installed a zerk fitting in the larger tube so they could grease them up every once in a while. BTW I have the stock shafts from the M1008 I used for parts and it uses a CV off the front output of the t-case. Do I need to just cut off the ends and weld the necesary lenght of tube between them? Did you tapper off the inside tube at the end so is doesn't create a ridge on the outside tube? What does DOM mean?
 
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