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Home Made Lift

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1/2 ton status
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May 19, 2005
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Arizona
My truck has a 4 in body lift on it. The rubber and what not used to lift it is squishing and cracking and looking like crud. What would you guys on a budget use to fix this problem on a budget? I have heard hocky pucks, wood, steel pvc pipe from home depot etc... any openions would be appreciated.

One other question.... what kind of lift is needed for rock crawling meanies that have all that travle in their suspention? You know, the guys pulling up on the ramp with one tire 4 feet up the ramp and tire in the wheel well and all three other tires on the ground?
 
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Are you making fun of my redneckedness or was that a compliment? By the way, i'm getting the personalized GITRDUN licensplate.... just kidding
 
Save your money and do it right, with an actual kit. 4inches for a body lift is crazy anyway. If you just ghettofab you truck, you'll never truly have the truck you want. Trust me, I know...
 
It was done with a kit, but it only needs those parts replaced. Can you go out and buy JUST THOSE PARTS? Where would I look? Wouldn't it be just as functional if not more so with something harder lifting it than rubber crap?
 
from what i know you cant buy a 4in bodylift, the most is 3. if i were you i would order a new kit and replace what you have with that. they run about 100 bux
 
I wouldn't go 4", but I have made one 3" (customer request) I just got a length of 3"x3"x3/16" square tube and cut it into 4" sections. Drill the holes and get bolts (U have the bolts allready) and bolt it in. With the truck having the body lift on it now all the other work is done for ya.
 
Was that solid core? Is that what you ment by drilling the holes? I'm new to all this, so i need laymens terms. Before this, I had a 2000 dodge ram and I never did a thing to it but buy 36in mud tires. It already had a lift enough for them.
 
No, sorry bout that :) I used square tube (hollow center) 3" suare, and it had a 3/16" wall. If U lay it on it's side all your'e blocks will be exactly the same higth, then just drill 1/2" holes through the top and bottom in line and it will repplace the bad blocks U have now.
 
OH, I get it. Turn them on their side. Don't cut them 3 in long.

Cut them to fit
turn them on their side
drill 1/2 hole
replace existing crap

that about cover it?
 
DO NOT BOOTY FAB YOUR TRUCK. if you wish to replace your current body lift, that's fine. spend a few dollars more, save yourself the hassle of making the body lift blocks, and most importantly, do it safely. personally, i'd ditch the body lift, and go with a high quality suspension lift. start with something simple, like a set of BDS or Tuff Country springs and a shackle flip. that should flex fine for most applications, and is actually a very common setup around CK5. if you wish more flex than that, you should look into 52" or 56" spring swaps for the front, and 56" or 63" springs for the rear. if that still doesnt get you enough, you're going to have to look into alternatives other than leaf sprung suspensions.

what type of terrain do you normally deal with, or intend to deal with? and what type of drivetrain does your truck have in it now? wheels and tires? axles? gear ratios? trans and transfer case?
 
beater_k20 said:
what type of terrain do you normally deal with, or intend to deal with? and what type of drivetrain does your truck have in it now? wheels and tires? axles? gear ratios? trans and transfer case?

River rock and rocky desert. running a 350 with 3 speed turbo 350. 33 12.50 AT. 14 bolt. dunno about the gear ratios or how to find out. Dunno about the transfer case either or how to find out.
 
The "rubber crap" you keep referring to are probably your body mount bushings. If they're in that bad of a shape then you should replace them. You can get the stock ones from the dealer or you can get urethane bushings from many aftermarket suppliers.
 
google said:
River rock and rocky desert. running a 350 with 3 speed turbo 350. 33 12.50 AT. 14 bolt. dunno about the gear ratios or how to find out. Dunno about the transfer case either or how to find out.

craw under your truch and look at the t case there should be a metel tag round 2" in diamiter rivited to the case look for the number on it. (ie. 208, 241, 205, ect.)

if you want to find you ratio, it takes some more work, you must pull a diff cover drain the oil and look on the ring gear (big one) on the out side edge there will be a set of numbers, one it the number of teath in the ring (big gear) and the other the number of teath in the pinion (smaller) gear. devide them and it will give you your ratio.


oh and take pics so we can see whay axle it really is:D
 

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