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Home powder coating system?

B

big pappa b

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Anyone have on e? I have my old stove I'm going to use. My neighbor is wiring me a 220 outlet for the stove and new welder (when I buy it), Haven't decided what powder coating kit to buy yet. Not looking to spend a lot. Summit and Eastwood both have kits for about $100. Many others out there too,

Whatcha got?
 
I have the Eastwood kit. Had it for years. Love it. No issues what so ever.
 
Same here....I bought the Eastwood kit and it's great! Order up some extra bottles if you plan on using several colors. They are cheap, and make it easier to switch colors.
 
How does it compare to commercial powder coating? How is the durability?
 
All of them are supposed be similar quality. They are NOT really meant for big things like frame mainly due to a person won't have an oven that big. I had a friend that had a small setup and did some things for me and it's comparable to the stuff I've had done commercially.
 
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I have a few of them, been PCing for years. I have a Chicago Electric one that is pretty good.

Strangely enough, my favorite one for basic powdercoating is my Craftsman airless one. Simple to use and does an awesome job. Once you get into more complex brackets and things where you have significant caging the other one is better because you can adjust the air and really pound the powder into the corners.
 
big pappa b said:
All of them are supposed be similar quality. They are really meant for big things like frame mainly due to a person won't have an oven that big. I had a friend that had a small setup and did some things for me and it's comparable to the stuff I've had done commercially.
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so something like that doesn't need to be baked?


Blaze said:
I have a few of them, been PCing for years. I have a Chicago Electric one that is pretty good.

Strangely enough, my favorite one for basic powdercoating is my Craftsman airless one. Simple to use and does an awesome job. Once you get into more complex brackets and things where you have significant caging the other one is better because you can adjust the air and really pound the powder into the corners.
Click to expand...

is there and adjustable spray pattern? I'm looking at doing some recentered hummers, and there will be a few spots on each wheel, I can see having a hard time getting powder into.
 
76zimmer said:
is there and adjustable spray pattern? I'm looking at doing some recentered hummers, and there will be a few spots on each wheel, I can see having a hard time getting powder into.
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Not really an adjustable spray pattern, but you can adjust the air and regulate how much powder is pressed into those areas.

You can also "hot flock" the areas if you have a problem with caging (when there is a tight area, sometimes the electrical charge will get
bubbled up in the area and shield any powder from sticking). When you hot flock you get the part heated up to about 200-250deg and then pull it out of the oven and spray it hot. The powder will melt on to the part as you spray and will prevent a lot of caging. When I do intricate brackets I will normally hot flock them.

You can do glass this way, too. :D
 
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We had a bunch more too. Seemed the more we drank the more powdercoated bottles we ended up with. :haha:
 
so you get the parts cleaned, and the powder goes on bare, or does it need a primer?
when you coat them, I assume you have a contact edge (where the part is setting on the oven surface) that isn't ideally coated?
 
No primer, just make sure it's grease free.
normally you will hang the parts somehow so everything gets coated
 
just trying to think of how to get a wheel into a regular sized oven without it touching????
so if its hanging after the powder coat is sprayed on, I could see handling it by the hub portion of the wheel, then maybe support it that way also inside the oven for curing?
 
76zimmer said:
just trying to think of how to get a wheel into a regular sized oven without it touching????
so if its hanging after the powder coat is sprayed on, I could see handling it by the hub portion of the wheel, then maybe support it that way also inside the oven for curing?
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I did a set of 15" wheels in my oven. It was difficult to say the least. A steel wheel is pretty heavy when you have to have it on something you can slide into the oven and not touch it at all. Lot of leverage on the wrists. I onlt had 1/4 in on each side for clearence. Put them in the oven REAL SLOW so I didn't smudge powder off. Lost alot of oven heat from the door being open, but the racks are hot as hell if ya touch them. Said i would never do wheels again. Only stuff that hangs easily in the oven with room to spare.
 
i was thinking some sort of steel plate, with a center cone shaped mount for the rim to sit on would work well.... like take 4 pieces of round stock and weld em in a x-mas fashion in the middle. should be able to slide em on a rack pretty easy i would think...


can you control the thickness of the powdercoat by loading it up with more powder? or does it just "take" so much?
 
rdn2blazer said:
I did a set of 15" wheels in my oven. It was difficult to say the least. A steel wheel is pretty heavy when you have to have it on something you can slide into the oven and not touch it at all. Lot of leverage on the wrists. I onlt had 1/4 in on each side for clearence. Put them in the oven REAL SLOW so I didn't smudge powder off. Lost alot of oven heat from the door being open, but the racks are hot as hell if ya touch them. Said i would never do wheels again. Only stuff that hangs easily in the oven with room to spare.
Click to expand...


That's what I was wondering, I'm getting H1's recentered with a relatively wide protective rim strengthener added, should be 50# or so each...I can see that being difficult to get in there without smudging the powder off somewhere. As Paul mentions something for the wheel to set on, then be slid into the oven might work...:dunno:
 
When I do wheels I normally will do the backside first, then after it cools down I'll run some high temp tape around the rear bead over the fresh pc and set it directly on the rack to do the font side. Most of the time you can't tell anything had been done, but sometimes you end up with some little marks on the bead. The way I figure it, it is the rear of the wheel that no one will see anyway, so doesn't bother me much.
 
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