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Hooker exhaust kit help

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Sleblanc

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hey guys I recently ordered the hooker exhaust kit for the k5 from summit racing. It was meant to go with the hooker headers and mufflers but I have flow tech headers with flow masters that are the same size and demensions as the recommended hookers. Here is where my issues start. Front driver side intermediate pipe went in well I think I have it set right the hooker muffler is tucked nicely. The driver side tail pipe seems to go in but it's exiting right at my spring hanger and hitting my gas tank skid plate( we're these factory? ) the passenger side is where the major issues start the intermediate pipe goes in but is hitting what looks to be an extra support for trans cross member it runs from the top of the fram and bolts to the crossmember. Then the same issues with the tail pipe on this side. I will try to upload pictures tomorrow since it's dark but if you guys have any pointers or pictures of this Hooker kit or the dynomax kit installed can you please share.
Thanks
 
I have bought GM full-size 4X4's, which had PO's put dual exhaust systems down the left and right side of the truck, but I do not think they worked out very well on the right side of the truck because of the interference from the transfer case. I had a shop build a dual exhaust system, which ran down only the left side of one of my GM full-size 4X4's, and it worked real well. I am getting ready to do that with another GM full-size 4X4 of mine.

As you stated, your biggest problem is your right side exhaust. You may have to take the truck to an exhaust shop to make that side work.
 
I am kinda wondering if that extra bracket really needs to be there of if I can cut it out possibly to let the right side rotate more
 
Sleblanc said:
I am kinda wondering if that extra bracket really needs to be there of if I can cut it out possibly to let the right side rotate more
Click to expand...

If you are talking about the bracket, which runs from the transfer case to the bell-housing, then yes you need that bracket! Too many people have tossed this bracket, then cried the blues when their bell-housing cracked after they went four-wheeling.
 
No this one runs from the cross member on the passenger side to the inside top of the frame. I know some models have it and some didn't. Will get a picture of it tomorrow in the day light
 
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i was thinking of cutting off this bracket here they do not have it on the driver side. if i take it out i think i may have enough room to spin the pipes.

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called hooker today they were pretty much useless stated that because i did not have the exact header they called out i have the flowtech version of this header it was the problem. by the looks of how everything is laid out in there even with the header moved i dont think that pipe will have enough room to spin clear. also on the tail pipes it seems they will have to lay under my hangers but i think i will cut them off and turn the pipe straight out by the hitch.
 
This is why some of us have gone back to single exhaust. Duals are a real pain on these trucks if you want them to clear anything, and be mounted solid.

Have a Y made for the headers, 3" straight back drivers side, done.
 
^What this guy said. The dual kits are often designed to work with a variety of square body trucks, usually don't include mufflers (another potential fitment problem) and don't use factory hangers. Be prepared to do some cutting and creative fitment, since running headers you often run into problems with transmission linkage clearance, the transfer case, and the gas tanks. I've dealt with a variety of brands, (summit, hooker, hedman) and none of them have been a perfect fit, even in the cases where you match up the header brand with the exhaust.
 
Thanks guys I will figure something out for now I think i am cutting the transfer case bracket off and then welding it back on in a slightly different position
 
decided against cutting the bracket for now. i was able to bend the header a little bit and may get the pipe to bend some also to make the turn. will post photos when I get it in see what you guys think on if i am hitting anything.
 
anyone have the pros and cons to putting spacers on the trans crossmemeber like the 1in drop kits i think that could help me clear that bracket what do you guys think?
 
Thank You for Posting this. I bought this same kit from Summit but I have not yet installed it, and from previous experience I was expecting problems. I actually have Hooker Headers installed. Its a set from back in the late 80's, that I had a lot of problems with leaks. I bought another set a few years later, same P/N to replace the leaky set, but they are different and would not line up to the current exhaust on the truck. The Passenger side header is just ever so slightly longer and the Collector is at a different angle than the older ones were. My plan is to use the system I bought from Summit with the newer headers. And you are correct, talking to anyone at Hooker is a waste of time. The Flowmaster's that you have may be like the older Hookers currently on my truck and that would require a trip to the Muffler shop to make it work. I hope this helps.
 
THe main problem is my headers are a little different then the hookers that supposed to work with this kit. The flow masters I have are the same exact muffler specs that hooker called for to go with this kit. The driver side fit good IMO. I wasn't as happy that the side exits are right below the rear spring but it doesn't look bad. I was able to bend my header a little on the passenger side and get it close I will be bringing that pipe to get the bend changed in it a little. It looks like the proper hooker header for this kit is slightly higher and closer to the starter then my flow tech headers are on the passenger side. I will post photos once i get time to finish it all hopefully this weekend so you can see.
 
Some don't seem to mind the spacers, but it affects both the front and rear driveline angles. Theoretically you shouldn't be doing that. Can you get away with it? Most likely, plenty of people do. Heck the otherwise stock '87 K5 I bought someone at some point had spaced the crossmember lower by putting the factory spacers on wrong. Guess they figured there was just too much ground clearance at the t-case lol.
 
It was a though back in the late 80s we had a 77 with the engine and trans dropped about 2inches to help with the angles. But does the transfer case drop just move the rear crossmember or do I drop both the front trans crossmember and the rear transfer case cross member?
 
The plans for the truck Are soon to be 6in lift with body lift and 38s also plan to swap in a np205 if I can locate one for good price and eventually 14 bolt rear
 
Sleblanc said:
The plans for the truck Are soon to be 6in lift with body lift and 38s also plan to swap in a np205 if I can locate one for good price and eventually 14 bolt rear
Click to expand...

There is only one trans/t-case mount. You might have a factory skid plate, but there is nothing mounted to the cross-member for the back portion of it.

If you change the driveline angle, either you correct it by moving the axle pinion the same amount, or you run a CV driveshaft. Driveline angles are supposed to be very close (couple degrees less at the pinion due to the pinion climbing under load), dropping the transfer case changes that relationship.

Do people get away without correcting the driveline angles? Yes. Is it technically proper? No. Vibrations are the main problem you will notice, but it's due to the mismatched angles, which are hard on the joints, not to mention everything bolted to them. The problem will get worse as the truck gets lifted and the driveshaft shortens.
 
I agree on if I drop it I need to get the angles right . Not fun shaking or in some cases throwing u joint out from under the truck .
 
so if I did drop it on my 75 it would be 6 spacers two on the driver side and re drill the holes on the side of them frame and then on the pansenger side it would be two on the bottom and then two on the inside the fram?
 
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