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Horn not operational / Needed for Inspection

Senorx470 said:
I understand. At the auto parts store. Let's see if the Dorman part works out. BTW, how did you come to that part number? Is there a database or something?
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I google searched for "1972 chevy blazer horn contact dorman", clicked over to shopping, saw the part number, went to Summit to make sure it was for the right vehicle. You could also do live chat with summit to confirm, or at autozone they can look up on their computer to see which one they say works. But the autozones I deal with, I am better off finding out myself online.
 
Bought a digital Multimeter. What do I set it to in order to check if the wires are hot? BTW, I feel like such a loser cause I can't figure this out.
 
Hard wired the horn the battery and it works. Might have to change my shorts. Horn caught me by surprise. :eek1:

Auto zone didn't have the parts, so I'm ordering them. At least I learned something today. Thanks to ekajkrats. Guess I'll just wait for the parts.

Also found out my truck was originally Ochre color.
 
Senorx470 said:
Bought a digital Multimeter. What do I set it to in order to check if the wires are hot? BTW, I feel like such a loser cause I can't figure this out.
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I think most have a dc 20v setting, that should do it. If you weren't able to get the dorman kit, I would try the little bolt down the hole, then use a screw driver to complete the circuit and see if the horn works.

Was there a wire already connected to the horn? It should be dark green, I think if original. Should make sure that runs to the firewall from the horn.
 
I know this much that the left side is the DC. In theory, I should use the red lead to poke a hole in the wire and then touch the black lead to a piece of metal to ground? This should give me a reading if the horn is getting juice?

 
Senorx470 said:
Found silver relay box to the left and top of the steering column on the firewall. No clicking when I press the horn button. The relay box has a green,red and black cable connected to it.

How do I hard wire the battery to the horn?

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I think you will get a horn (and a click) if you do the bolt trick on the horn button. If you get neither, then you can use the multimeter to test the relay...just not sure how to.
 
I just checked, and if you unplug the wires from the relay, and put a jumper from the red to green cable, you should get a horn honk.
 
I think I tried the bolt trick. The hole I put the bolt it has a visible copper looking metal piece in the bottom. Touched the bolt with a screwdriver and nothing. No click or horn. I just ordered the horn contact kit and a new horn relay just in case. I don't want to be waiting around another week if it's the relay that's gone bad. I need to get the truck past inspection. Anything else we can do in the meantime until parts arrive?
 
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Senorx470 said:
I think I tried the bolt trick. The hole I put the bolt it has a visible copper looking metal piece in the bottom. Touched the bolt with a screwdriver and nothing. No click it horn. I just ordered the horn contact kit and a new horn relay just in case. I don't want to be waiting around another week if it's the relay that's gone bad. I need to get the truck past inspection. Anything else we can do in the meantime until parts arrive?
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Run a wire up to the dash with a button and bypass the whole steering column/relay mess for the time being....

When the inspector says to beep the horn, push the button. I don't know that it actually matters that the button be in the center of the steering wheel to make it "legal".... just do something that works for now and get your sticker! :D


-G
 
Just glanced through the replies, but did you check the fuse? Also I think all the wiring that's inside the steering wheel serves only to ground the relay.
In other words, one of the leads at the relay should have 12v on it all the time, probably the red one. Then when you press the horn button it simply grounds the relay causing it to send current thru the green wire to the horn.
You need to trace the wire coming out thru the steering column that grounds the horn relay. My bet is that either there is a break in that wire or the horn relay is faulty.

There should be a little copper button on the end of the wire at the steering wheel. Set your volt meter to resistance and find the other end of that wire at the relay. Your volt meter should jump from 0 (zero) to 1.00 if there is no break in that wire. You may need to use a length of wire if your arms aren't configured like those of an orangutan!:D

If your volt meter still says 0.00 then there's a break in that wire somewhere.

Again, it's been a long time since I worked on one of these but they all work basically the same way. If there's a relay in a DC circuit, then most of the time, the switch/button only grounds the relay. This prevents voltage from being present at the switch all the time.
 
You are absolutely right. Horn button grounds. Red wire is always hot. Relay sends juice to green wire to horn when black wire grounded. Look at me sounding like I know what I'm talking about. Been absorbing a ton of info the past week and loving it. I have a new relay coming and the actual horn button needed to ground the black cable. My steering wheel was missing those parts.
 
Senorx470 said:
You are absolutely right. Horn button grounds. Red wire is always hot. Relay sends juice to green wire to horn when black wire grounded. Look at me sounding like I know what I'm talking about. Been absorbing a ton of info the past week and loving it. I have a new relay coming and the actual horn button needed to ground the black cable. My steering wheel was missing those parts.
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Internet forums can be better than 4 years of college..sometimes!
Sounds like you're on the right track, just be sure there is continuity all the way thru that black wire.
 
I ordered the "Horn Contact Kit" and it arrived today. I'm not sure where or how this is suppose to ground my horn??



Where does it go and in what order? I'm guessing the larger hole with the plastic sleeve? I'm confused again. What happens if I remove the nut? I'm guess in there should be at least a black wire in there for the ground? Is it a pain in the ass to put the steering wheel back on me?

 
No wire in mine that I could see. The metal pin contacts the brass at the bottom of the hole. The red arrow points to where the parts go:
12334841984_8d5276c275_o.jpg


It is the metal plate that is pushing it down, so the circuit is completed by the pin contacting the bottom and the top when pressed down. The spring pushes it back up.

So order of dropping it down the hole is spring first, then pin with plastic part on it.

I have never attempted to take apart my wheel, as I understood (or misunderstood) that I needed a stearing wheel puller.

-Jacob
 
Makes some sense now. Spring first, then the pin with plastic sleeve on it. I'm guessing the flat head goes in first against the spring?
 
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