the good ones should be s.s.The clamps on the right are not S.S, could they still rust submerged in fuel?
personally I'd use these for in tank. Needs a special tool to crimp. These are permanent, and no moving parts to come loose.
Use the right side over the left, be sure they are still basically round when fully tightened.
Something to consider is the inconvenience, time and effort when the use of the wrong clamps ultimately leads to failure - the few dollars saved won’t be worth it.I actually want to get the hose clamps you recommend but I can't see spending the money just for 2 clamps, and Thank you for your advice
Something to consider is the inconvenience, time and effort when the use of the wrong clamps ultimately leads to failure - the few dollars saved won’t be worth it.
Thank you Wes!
personally I'd use these for in tank. Needs a special tool to crimp. These are permanent, and no moving parts to come loose.
Use the right side over the left, be sure they are still basically round when fully tightened.
KW has been using those on power steering return lines for quite a few years. We end up cutting them off because of leaks because I haven't bought crimping pliers to try on them. We just use worm drive liner style clamps. Easy to snug up later.
personally I'd use these for in tank. Needs a special tool to crimp. These are permanent, and no moving parts to come loose.
Use the right side over the left, be sure they are still basically round when fully tightened.
I used side cutter for putting them on my wife's Nissan cv bootThey're properly called Oetiker clamps and pliers. If you're careful you can do them w/ a bullnose cutter, even seen someone use a side cutter.
They're pretty easy to loosen up w/ a small screwdriver in through the side of the clamping box.
With the cv boot I didn't feel they needed the smash.Yep side cutters then a smach with a ball peen