CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

How can i stop a "ticking" noise around the Torque Convertor and Flywheel on a 1990 Suburban V1500?

blackandgold51

1/2 ton status
Joined
Oct 6, 2015
Posts
724
Reaction score
86
Location
New Orleans, LA
I hear a ticking like noise coming from the flywheel or the torque convertor. I'm sure it's not coming from the 350 v8 engine because i put my ear close to the flywheel behind the engine and its not coming from the engine. Just the flywheel or convertor.

Transmission is a rebuilt 700r4
 
Sure its not a small exhaust leak at one of your exhaust flanges? (Where the pipe meets the manifolds)
 
Don't know if I saw any holes through the exhaust. Then again the manifolds are old as the suburban so it May be
There doesn't have to be any holes for it to leak. There is (or should be) a "donut" gasket between the pipe and the manifold, where they meet. These gaskets are known to get old and start leaking. I would be willing to bet that's where the "ticking" is coming from. My blazer does the same thing, I just stopped worrying about it.
 
First thing I'd check is TC to flex plate bolts. I had a ticking turned KNOCKING once that I thought was a major motor issue... Turned out to be 2 loose TC bolts is all
 
Check the easy stuff first, but if it's not loose bolts it's a cracked flex plate. Mine made that same sound. you can shine a light up there and odds are you'll see the crack. If replacement is required, you don't need to take down the transmission. You unbolt the flex plate from the torque converter and push it back. Unbolt the transmission from the engine, unbolt the transmission mount and support the transmission. You should be able to push it back enough to remove the bolts and drop the flex plate.
 
I have done a flex plate using 2 long bolts in place of the opposing bell housing bolts ,took out the rest of the bell bolts,took off the shift linkage,and used a floor jack under the crossmember to support the trans and T-case,unbolted the crossmember,and was able to pull the trans back about 2",that gave enough room to get at the flex plate bolts and get it off...there was enough travel in the slip yokes so I didn't take off the driveshafts,and the cooler lines had enough slack too,but one ended up breaking,it was rusted...had to use a come-a-long and some kicks to the T-case to get the tranny back up against the block..took about 2-1/2 hrs..
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom