CK5
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how can i......

good advice..

Valve stem seals CAN cause oil burning on start up, but its the VALVE GUIDES themselves that are loose enough to pass excessive oil into the cylinders..the seals are just that,seals!--they can only do so much,if the giudes or valve stems are worn enough,it'll smoke regardless of how good the seals are--you have 20 inches of vacuum pulling the oil past them at idle!..if they are loose enough,idle will suffer too--its a vacuum leak!..

You have to realize everything in an engine wears,at the same rate..replacing only the heads, with a fresh "valve job" often results in an engine that smokes MUCH more than it ever did before,because the oil is now forced past the points of least resistance that are still worn--like the rings and pistons,and scores in the cylinders..

You'll find you wasted time and money,and hours of back breaking labor,that would have been easier to do had you pulled the motor right out!...it took me about 5 times to decide "valve jobs" are not worth the effort,if thats all your going to do..replacing heads with the motor in the truck sucks...

Three times out of five in my trucks ,the motor had to be replaced with another,because it smoked so badly you couldn't drive it on public streets without being pulled over and ticketed for excessive smoking,after the "rebuilt" heads were insrtalled!..:mad: ...and to add insult to injury,the 350 motors I bought from junkyards ran sweet,and at 300 bucks,they were 150 bucks cheaper than having the heads done over,and now I had an expensive "half rebuilt" small block gathering dust in my shop!..:doah:

Not to say you can't slap a set of valve stem seals on it,and get favorable results!..but don't be too dissapointed if it turns out worse !..its best to do everything at once,and get it over with..:crazy:
 
MarcS said:
The oils not going to blow by. There is no real pressure. It just sits on top of the valves under the valve covers and leaks by the valve seals when the engine is off. Thats why it smokes then clears up after you start up and run a few minuites. The leak is slow, so when the engine is running, it's hard to say if the seals are the problem compaired to the rings.

Your going to burn alot more oil with bad rings then with bad valve seals.

The valve seals are cheap and easy to replace or use whats called umbrella seals to fix the problem.

Rings, :frown1: ---Time to rebuild/replace engine.


Does the engine smoke on start up and clears or does it smoke all the time ??? That will give you the answer to whats next ??? Let us know.
it smokes on start up(not all the time), then clears up, but will occasionally see smoke while driving....
 
There is some truth to that. I remember my buddy's Dodge that didn't burn much oil at all before the head gasket went out. I put a new head on it and it ran great...for about a week. Then it become a mobile smoke show. The added compression from good valves took out at least one of the rings.

Situations vary, but a lot of guys just live with the leaking valve seals. You might get years more service before something else goes wrong.

That being said, you're not going to hurt anything by replacing those seals, assuming the assembly is done correctly.
 
BIGBLAZE433 said:
it smokes on start up(not all the time), then clears up, but will occasionally see smoke while driving....

If the trucks been running and not sitting off, the oil may not have the time to seep past the valve seals, so it may not smoke all the time. Usually the longer it sits the more it will smoke on start up.

When driving, is it when you romp on it, or just driving normal ???
 
MarcS said:
If the trucks been running and not sitting off, the oil may not have the time to seep past the valve seals, so it may not smoke all the time. Usually the longer it sits the more it will smoke on start up.

When driving, is it when you romp on it, or just driving normal ???
mostly when i`m rompin her:D
 
BIGBLAZE433 said:
mostly when i`m rompin her:D

Thats just runnin' rich then. :waytogo:

I think its just your valve seals. Easy to fix.

Still would not hurt to do a compression test and leakdown test to get a feel of how healthy the engine is anyway. Its just good to know. :D
 
MarcS said:
Thats just runnin' rich then. :waytogo:

I think its just your valve seals. Easy to fix.

Still would not hurt to do a compression test and leakdown test to get a feel of how healthy the engine is anyway. Its just good to know. :D

not sure how to do either, would a shop be able to do that?
 
BIGBLAZE433 said:
not sure how to do either, would a shop be able to do that?

Yes. It's real easy to do.

A compression gauge is pretty cheap at Autozone or other parts store. Screws into the spark plug hole. (DISCONNECT COIL WIRE !!!! You dont want the engine running, just crank it over a few times. Do for each cylinder.)

The gauge reads PSI. I know mine was around 120-150 PSI. Varies per cylinder. Best to check the Chiltons or other service manual for the actual good readings. Aftermarket/high compression heads, wear and tear, etc will all affect the readings.
 

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