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How come these mods don't stop? TONS OF PICS...beware

What!? not camo??

Looks good. Something about all those bolts circled up that looks so good.
 
Hey Brian, where you hiding out in Hobbs these days until the move.:D
It's hard to find you now that you aren't in the middle of town.

Even though you are moving that is still not an excuse to not have it done before Cruces, I want to see you break that thing in pretty soon.

Until then, awesome work:bow: only wish my junk was as nice.
 
NewMexK5 said:
Hey Brian, where you hiding out in Hobbs these days until the move.:D
It's hard to find you now that you aren't in the middle of town.

Even though you are moving that is still not an excuse to not have it done before Cruces, I want to see you break that thing in pretty soon.

Until then, awesome work:bow: only wish my junk was as nice.

I am at the house most of the time or the shop North of town. I'll PM you the new cell phone number. Brian "lobo" came over last night to view the progress and twisted my arm for a bit about the Las Cruces trip. So move permiting I'll be there. Hopefull going to take Blazd88 from the board along in tow also as he is here in Lubbock. Off to another job interview, I'll be back in NM on the 1st to bleed brakes.... again.
 
Cool deal, Cruces is always a blast. As for the brakes I feel for you man, but mine are doing just fine and I bled them the old fashioned way.:haha:So start pushing on that pedal.:haha:

Tommy
 
I got the power break bleeder built and flushed the entire system. The gravity bleed and pushing the pedal just never gave me a great feel. The breaks now feel better then they ever have after the power bleed and flush at 15psi. The bleeder was cheap to make and I already used it to do a friends truck and charged him what the machine cost me to build so now I am back to having another free tool. I found one of the best things to use as a gasket was a tooldbox mat from Home Depot it cost 5.97 and I only needed a bit of it so the rest will be used as a non-slip matt on the workbench. I originally used a factory cap instead of the 1/4" plate but I never could get it to seal and fluid leaked everywhere.

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I've got everything I can do on the new fan mount done until the raditor shop gets my raditor fixed. All I have left is the bottom legs that will take the stress of the factory raditor mount. The fan locks into the bottom part of the mount and the 2 bolts secure it in. This should prevent the holes in the raditor that happend with the old strap mounts.

I also fabbed up some simple mounts for the Ford Ranger cooler I got at pick and pull and plumbed it into the PS return line. I am going to start working on the ram mounts tonite.

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Mounted up some shock tabs from DIY as mounts for some spots since I lost the headlights during the narrow. My box of assorted tabs from Kert has served me well. I started working on preping for the cage which involved stripping down the factory dash and had tons of extra parts to through away:laugh:

I am going to replace all the wiring but ONLY need the minimum. I am going to run a aluminum dash with a minimum of gauges, none of them factory, so I think it would be easier to rewire everything instead of splicing factory. Just planning on a tach,water temp, oil pressure and trans temp guage. I already have dual batteries in the rear to a shutoff switch and then a distribution block from there to run electic fans and accessories so really the only thing I currently have on the factory system is the ignition switch and starter. The starter will be wired to a switched power push button on the dash and I am installing an aftermarket fuse panel/relay board in the dash. I have a no factory lights.

So long story short what wiring is needed to get a 400sbc carbed and a th350 to come alive?

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Progress on the cage today. Had to change just about all the tubes since I wanted my front bars to come down into where the factory dash was. The HF notcher has been working ok but if I do another cage I am investing in a nicer notcher.

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badfish4tail said:
Man wish i had skills like that:bow:

Don't let the pics fool you there is always plenty of cussing going on during most of my projects. I somehow get done on a wing and a prayer most of the time. I just like to do stuff myself, if not I'll never learn. Costs me about twice as much to do it that way but oh well. It is much easier to do now that I am not married, easier to afford the toys:D
 
Got some stuff accomplished this weekend and helped a bud install his lift. I got my new set of 52" installed in the front since I had a broken leaf in the old set. It was sagging about 1.5" to the driverside and it drove me nuts even with it sitting in the shop. I cleaned up the 52s, painted them, installed new longer clamps and bushings, then stabbed them in. It sits a bit higher in the front then the old ones and WOW it is level again. I bolted up the new driving lights for a bit of bling factor:laugh:

I am officially out of tubing and will be making a trip to Lubbock tom to get more tube. Installed the last few pieces I had and have started plans on the console, dash and overhead console.

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You had better wheel the piss out of that thing when your done with as much time as you have into it just sitting in your shop.
 
I have kind of been watching this thread off and on. I copied the way you did the front taper. A few things I have run into over the last 2 trips since doing it. I get a lot of flex out of the front end. First time out the radiator wasnt far enough forward and my fan eat it for lunch. Second time out, after moving the radiator forward 2 inches, replacing it, also adding a electric fan the, the fenders kinked. Im not running a hood like you are so that could make a difference.
What I would like to do is tube the front out and maybe skin it. Ideally I would like to tube back into a cage but I dont have a cage as of yet.
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jays68yak said:
I have kind of been watching this thread off and on. I copied the way you did the front taper. A few things I have run into over the last 2 trips since doing it. I get a lot of flex out of the front end. First time out the radiator wasnt far enough forward and my fan eat it for lunch. Second time out, after moving the radiator forward 2 inches, replacing it, also adding a electric fan the, the fenders kinked. Im not running a hood like you are so that could make a difference.
What I would like to do is tube the front out and maybe skin it. Ideally I would like to tube back into a cage but I dont have a cage as of yet.

I also don't think I ever posted pictures but I welded in square tube from the firewall to the grill inside the fender to support them. I have sat my fat butt on the fenders with no problems. The welded square tube grill is also tied into my fenders.
 
Got the seats cut off the old mounts and fabbed up a new base the bolts onto the 2 seat mounts and the 2 seatbelt bolts. Moved the seats forward and down as compared to the factory because I wanted them clear of the cut top. With the factory seat there was a chance of tall passengers hitting there head on the roof.

It will take some fancy work to get into the rear with the cage and top back inplace but since jubblies are required for rear pansengers it should work out with the little leg room and wiggling to get it and out:rolleyes:

Porc over on Pirate is getting me a set of Baja SS for the front and the rear half of the cage is shipping to me as we speak:wink1:

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