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How did you beef up your stock steering?

the beast

1/2 ton status
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Oct 15, 2003
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Providence, RI
I crushed my tie rod this weekend. I'll be playing hockey with it later on it's so twisted.

I have a 77 K10 with a 10 bolt front. I'd like to beef up the tie rod and possibly flip it over to the top of the mount. Not quite high steer, but higher than stock.

I've heard people use heavy wall DOM. What thickness are we talking here?

Can I use Heim joint ends instead of stock tie rod ends? And if I do, can I just drill out the knuckle and use a bolt, or does it NEED to be tapered?

Pics of a similar set-up would also be greatly appreciated.
 
Yup, that's pretty much what I'm looking for.

Finding a home brew version would be a bonus too.
 
Get a heavy wall DOM tierod. I recommend at least 3/8" wall thickness and run tierod ends. I am not a fan of using heims in a trucks steering that sees road use alot. A guy I wheel with uses heims and absolutely hates them in his steering setup.

TRE's are cheap, strong, easy, and can be warrantied.

I am running 7/8" shank Chevy TRE's in my truck. I paid $27 each of them from Checker Auto Parts and they have a lifetime warranty.

Harley
 
Valid point taken.

But how difficult, or expensive, is it going to be to have the taper reversed on the knuckles? That was the main reason for the Heims. Assuming I can just use a bolt like I asked.
 
If you want the taper reversed get a set of Dana 44 flat top knuckles..76 and older I believe. Then you are set up for crossover steering when the time comes and you'll a have top mount tie rod. :D
 
D44 flattop knuckles are tapered from the top like mentioned.

But with a 3/8" wall tierod or better it will take most every amount of abuse you can throw at it. Only a really wicked shot is going to phase a tierod like that.

I was told when I bought my 3/8" tierod that I would break my 10 bolt knuckles or balljoints before I put a real bend in the tierod.

Harley
 
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