How did you mount your sliders on the older K5s with the full rocker boxes?

[DPI]

I am trying to help a member retro fit a set of sliders I fabbed that were designed for the later model body mounts. He has a '73 with the full rocker boxes. Is there a way I can make these work?

Here's a pic of the full rocker box I am talking about.

 

[nvrenuf]

I've never paid attention to the body differences before. The backside of the rockers on the 73 are smooth? No body mount gussets like mine? /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

Is there any usable flat surface on the back side of the rocker lip?

 

[DPI]

The '73 is not local, so I have no way to look at it.

I am wondering if there are gussets under the lower panel on the rocker box.

[ QUOTE ]
Is there any usable flat surface on the back side of the rocker lip?

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From the picture, it doesn't look like there is a usable surface...

 

[nvrenuf]

Any idea how many years that rocker design spans? Just curious, I'd like to see it first hand. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

 

[HarryH3]

[ QUOTE ]
Any idea how many years that rocker design spans? Just curious, I'd like to see it first hand. /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

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73-75 in the 2nd Gens. They were used to stiffen the body on the full convertible models. With no cab, the body flexed too much when the top was removed. /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif

It's been over 20 years since I had my '72, so I don't recall what was under it. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[wayne]

By the looks of it you are going to have to tie into the frame and pinch weld to make it work good. That will also help to stiffen the body up but it will take some frame flex out.

 

[Burt4x4]

My 72 has thoes boxes and I cut out the rocker panel and welded 3x3 square tubing to the rocker box it self. As for making thes sliders work... /forums/images/graemlins/hack.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grind.gif /forums/images/graemlins/weld.gif should doit /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

 

[DPI]

Thanks for the info!

What guage material is used on the box? Is it thick enough to cut slots, and weld in the slider hangers using some gussets?

Or could you weld material, maybe a piece of flat bar, to it to spread out the surface area of the mounts?

 

[Burt4x4]

I'm not sure but if I had to guess I would say it's close to .120 or 1/8" gage steel.
I think if you spread the load evenly and weld it to the box you should be ok. The ends of the box bolts to the body so if you are removing the rockers you can remove the boxes too. I might still have some pics in my gallery here?
Good luck

 

[MaxCrack]

My '75 has the boxes also. I am about to cut out the passenger floor to replace it, and to mount my rocksliders. I will be taking lots of picks of this project. I will try to remember to post some picks of the inside of the box for you.

 

[shane74]

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The ends of the box bolts to the body so if you are removing the rockers you can remove the boxes too.

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Huh? The rocker boxes in my '74 were spot welded in. No unbolting of any kind. The P.O. did an abortion of a hack job and cut mine out /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif I will be using 1"x1/2 thk. sq. tube and building a frame that will weld in in place of the stock rocker boxes. I'll weld sliders to that frame.

For what it's worth. If you weld a thicker flat piece of steel, say 1/4" or so to the bottom side of the rocker box, you could easily retro fit those sliders to weld directly to it. Unless you can fabricate really well, then I wouldn't recommend cutting out your boxes if they are no rusted through or in good shape whatsoever. If you do, and you don't put something back in there that is stronger and will resist body flex both front/rear and side/side, you WILL break your windsheild, f*k up your doors and door jambs, and the floor WILL "oil can" on you just getting in and out of the truck. It will not be fun, and it will be expensive and a PITA to fix. Just my $0.02, but I have gone through some serious headaches with mine because of the stoopid P.O. /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif IMO cutting out the rocker boxes is NOT worth it nor smart to do unless they are crap and need to be replaced.

 

[Burt4x4]

The inside is basically empty except for a 1/2"(maby smaller) solid round rod that goes accross, front to back, long ways from top to bottom, kinda like this \
good luck

 

[Burt4x4]

I guess I should clarify what I was trying to say.
I was not suggesting to remove the boxes permanentlly, just to remove them for fitting the sliders to the boxes then reinstalling. I agree not to remove the boxes completely.
On my 72 the only spots welds were the inner and outer rocker panels to the rocker box. Once the rocker panels are removed the rocker box can be unbolted from the body's sub framing.
Sorry if I added more confusion to this...kinda sleepy today /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

 

[djsblaze]

Daniel, if you have technical questions, why dont you just pick up the phone and call me-- you know I have all of the answers and skills to get this done! I think I have proven myself to be the best at holding a shop light. /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif

 

[bigjbear]

If you totally remove the rocker panel and doorsill plate you can put a piece of 4x4 square tube flush w/ the outboard edge of the rocker box. The inside edge of the top of the square tube will slip under floor where you made the cut. This makes the floor flat all the way across. I am not running stock doors so check to make sure they will still close. I seem to remember there being enough clearance but its been a few years. You will also need to cut a wedge out of the tube on the inboard bottom edge to clear the kick up in the rocker box for the body mount. After you cut the wedge out and use a sledge hammer to close up the space, then weld it shut. The 4x4 should now slip right in. Now weld the 4x4 to the floor and the rocker box. I made mine from 3/16" wall and it has held up great. Let me know if you have any "?"s