BLUESMAN
1/2 ton status
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Both of my front axle joints are shot.....how hard of a job is it and do I need any special tools, it's an 3/4 ton 10 bolt.I got to get them done before next weekend!!
CK5
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How Difficult to replace frt. axle joints?
- Thread starter BLUESMAN
- Start date
StonerK5
1/2 ton status
Hey Blue, check out this thread, might help a little
<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=blazer4x4&Number=335860&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=0&part=1#Post335947>Thread</a>
Chris
"Whatever happened to my Rock N Roll?"
IM nOt wEiRd, i jUsT lOvE tHe sHiFt kEy!!
<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/forums/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=blazer4x4&Number=335860&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=0&part=1#Post335947>Thread</a>
Chris
"Whatever happened to my Rock N Roll?"
IM nOt wEiRd, i jUsT lOvE tHe sHiFt kEy!!
BLUESMAN
1/2 ton status
- Joined
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Hey Chris, Thanks for the thread but I'm replacing the axle u joints not the ball joints.Bluesman
72THING
1/2 ton status
It's not too hard. Just follow these instructions. You will need allen wrench, snapring pliers, 4-prong axlenut socket, and torque wrench, plus 1/2 in drive ratchet and sockets.
1. Secure front of vehicle on jackstands and take off wheels and brake calipers. Don't take the brakelines loose. Just tie the calipers up out of the way.
2. Remove locking hubs-you'll need: allen wrenches and snapring pliers. Loosen the 6 allen screws and take off the hub body. Next, remove the large snapring on the inside edge of the hub and the external snapring on the very end of the stubshaft. This will allow you to remove the locking hub assembly.
3. Remove the entire hub and rotor assembly- First, you'll need a 4-prong axle nut socket(available at most auto parts stores) to loosen the outer locknut. After the outer locknut is removed, you'll need to remove the lockring by simply pulling it out with some long needlenose pliers. Finally, remove the inner locknut with the axlenut socket. You should now be able to pull off the entire rotor/hub assembly. Make sure the outer wheel bearing doesn't fall out on the ground.
4. Remove the spindle, caliper mounting bracket, and dust shield- Simply remove the six bolts that hold the spindle on. You can now pull off the spindle. ( it may need some coaxing with a deadblow hammer). The dust shield and caliper mounting bracket will come off behind the spindle.
5. Now you should be down to the bare knuckle. Simply pull out the entire stub-shaft/ u-joint/ inner axle assembly from the differential housing. Some gear dope may trickle out of the housing and this is normal.
6. Replace the u-joints as required. A hydraulic press is handy for that. If you don't have access to one, use the appropriate size socket and a hammer to remove and replace them.
7. This is a perfect time to repack wheel bearings. You'll need to remove the wheel seal on the inside of the bearing hub to access the inner wheel bearing. You should replace this seal with a new one upon installation. Also make sure to put some grease on the roller bearing on the inside of the spindle. Make sure the seals that are on the stub shaft near the u-joint are good . They may need to be replaced. I think these seals and the inside spindle support roller bearing are very important and are often overlooked.
8. Installation is the reverse of removal -Put on the caliper mounting bracket, dust shield, and spindle and tighten the six bolts that secure the spindle. Next, clean the spindle and slide the rotor/hub assembly onto it. Thread the inner locknut onto the spindle and tighten to about 50 ft-lbs. Then back it off and re-tighten to about 35 ft-lbs. This sets the bearing preload. Then install the lockring. The lockring has to line up with the slot in the spindle, and the little tit on the inner locknut MUST line up with one of the many holes drilled in the lockring. You may have to slightly tighten or loosen the inner locknut to get the tit to line up with one of the holes. Once the inner locknut and lockring are lined up and secure, thread on the outer lockring and tighten it to about 75 ft-lbs. The rotor should now spin freely on the spindle with a minimal amount of drag. Then install the locking hub assembly and install the external snapring on the end of the stubshaft to secure it. You may have to pry out on the axle assembly from the inside of the knucle a little to get the stubshaft out far enough to install the snapring. Then, install the large snapring on the inside groove of the hub. Next, Install the locking hub body onto the hub with the six allen screws. Finally, install the brake calipers and pat yourself on the back for a job well done.
Whew!! Hope this helps you out.
Will
'72 C10, originally 2WD, 6"Springs f+r, Dana 60 f+r, Lock-Right front, welded rear, 4.56s, 350, SM465, NP205, 39.5" TSLs, ORD crossover steering
1. Secure front of vehicle on jackstands and take off wheels and brake calipers. Don't take the brakelines loose. Just tie the calipers up out of the way.
2. Remove locking hubs-you'll need: allen wrenches and snapring pliers. Loosen the 6 allen screws and take off the hub body. Next, remove the large snapring on the inside edge of the hub and the external snapring on the very end of the stubshaft. This will allow you to remove the locking hub assembly.
3. Remove the entire hub and rotor assembly- First, you'll need a 4-prong axle nut socket(available at most auto parts stores) to loosen the outer locknut. After the outer locknut is removed, you'll need to remove the lockring by simply pulling it out with some long needlenose pliers. Finally, remove the inner locknut with the axlenut socket. You should now be able to pull off the entire rotor/hub assembly. Make sure the outer wheel bearing doesn't fall out on the ground.
4. Remove the spindle, caliper mounting bracket, and dust shield- Simply remove the six bolts that hold the spindle on. You can now pull off the spindle. ( it may need some coaxing with a deadblow hammer). The dust shield and caliper mounting bracket will come off behind the spindle.
5. Now you should be down to the bare knuckle. Simply pull out the entire stub-shaft/ u-joint/ inner axle assembly from the differential housing. Some gear dope may trickle out of the housing and this is normal.
6. Replace the u-joints as required. A hydraulic press is handy for that. If you don't have access to one, use the appropriate size socket and a hammer to remove and replace them.
7. This is a perfect time to repack wheel bearings. You'll need to remove the wheel seal on the inside of the bearing hub to access the inner wheel bearing. You should replace this seal with a new one upon installation. Also make sure to put some grease on the roller bearing on the inside of the spindle. Make sure the seals that are on the stub shaft near the u-joint are good . They may need to be replaced. I think these seals and the inside spindle support roller bearing are very important and are often overlooked.
8. Installation is the reverse of removal -Put on the caliper mounting bracket, dust shield, and spindle and tighten the six bolts that secure the spindle. Next, clean the spindle and slide the rotor/hub assembly onto it. Thread the inner locknut onto the spindle and tighten to about 50 ft-lbs. Then back it off and re-tighten to about 35 ft-lbs. This sets the bearing preload. Then install the lockring. The lockring has to line up with the slot in the spindle, and the little tit on the inner locknut MUST line up with one of the many holes drilled in the lockring. You may have to slightly tighten or loosen the inner locknut to get the tit to line up with one of the holes. Once the inner locknut and lockring are lined up and secure, thread on the outer lockring and tighten it to about 75 ft-lbs. The rotor should now spin freely on the spindle with a minimal amount of drag. Then install the locking hub assembly and install the external snapring on the end of the stubshaft to secure it. You may have to pry out on the axle assembly from the inside of the knucle a little to get the stubshaft out far enough to install the snapring. Then, install the large snapring on the inside groove of the hub. Next, Install the locking hub body onto the hub with the six allen screws. Finally, install the brake calipers and pat yourself on the back for a job well done.
Whew!! Hope this helps you out.
Will
'72 C10, originally 2WD, 6"Springs f+r, Dana 60 f+r, Lock-Right front, welded rear, 4.56s, 350, SM465, NP205, 39.5" TSLs, ORD crossover steering
marv_springer
1/2 ton status
Excellent job on the write up....!!
As a final step, I'd like to add:
9) Finally, make sure that you keep all these tools in the truck when you go wheelin' - so you can do this on the trail if (when) necessary.
Marv
As a final step, I'd like to add:
9) Finally, make sure that you keep all these tools in the truck when you go wheelin' - so you can do this on the trail if (when) necessary.
Marv
BLUESMAN
1/2 ton status
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DUDE, YOU ARE THE MAN!!!Talk about detail, it's like reading a manual!!!I got the joints( got an xtra one for the trail), so now the dirty job!!Thanks Again...YOU ARE MAN!!
he did seriously understate the difficulty you can have removing the spindle.
a block of wood (2x4 etc) and a 4lb or bigger hammer is commonly required.
beat the spindle until one side opens, jam something like a flatscrewdriver or prybar in the opening to act as a pivot point,
now beat it the other way, repeat until its off.
cover it with antisieze compound on reassembly and never have to beat it again
formerly 77chev
still a jerk though
a block of wood (2x4 etc) and a 4lb or bigger hammer is commonly required.
beat the spindle until one side opens, jam something like a flatscrewdriver or prybar in the opening to act as a pivot point,
now beat it the other way, repeat until its off.
cover it with antisieze compound on reassembly and never have to beat it again
formerly 77chev
still a jerk though
<blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr>
he did seriously understate the difficulty you can have removing the spindle.
<hr></blockquote>
That's what made it just like reading a manual...
Rene
<font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/project_T2> tRusty pics...</a>
he did seriously understate the difficulty you can have removing the spindle.
<hr></blockquote>
That's what made it just like reading a manual...
Rene
<font color=green>Dyslexics of the world...UNTIE!</font color=green>
<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/project_T2> tRusty pics...</a>
72THING
1/2 ton status
Hey BLUESMAN, I appreciate the compliments on my write up. I do what I can to help out. I just wrote it up from memory because I've replaced a lot of axle joints on D44s & 10 bolts and after a while you can quote the steps in your sleep. About the details with the spindles, they can be a pain. Just tap them back and forth with a hammer and then use a chisel between the spindle and knuckle to finish the removal. Not very hard.
Will
'72 C10, originally 2WD, 6"Springs f+r, Dana 60 f+r, Lock-Right front, welded rear, 4.56s, 350, SM465, NP205, 39.5" TSLs, ORD crossover steering
Will
'72 C10, originally 2WD, 6"Springs f+r, Dana 60 f+r, Lock-Right front, welded rear, 4.56s, 350, SM465, NP205, 39.5" TSLs, ORD crossover steering
DANG!! Thats what you call a write up....maybe Steve will put it in the Tech section!?!?
SK-15
J**P...it's whats for dinner!
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need any roads!
If it wasn't for bad luck I would have no luck at all!!
SK-15
J**P...it's whats for dinner!
Roads? Where we're going, we don't need any roads!
If it wasn't for bad luck I would have no luck at all!!
