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How do I change my starter?

SlicksInRain

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I have a fuel injected 350, and I need a new starter. What steps do I need to take to do this correctly? Also, what will it cost? Thank you!
 
Cost depends on where you buy it and what kind of warranty you get.

1. Disconnected the battery cables
2. remove wires off the terminals on the starter posts.
3. unbolt the starter
4. check to see if there are shims in place.
4. bolt the starter back up, make sure they are pretty snug and add the correct amount of shims you took you if you had any. Not to tight but not to loose.
5. connect the wires onto the proper terminals on the starter posts.
6. connect the battery cables.
7. turn the engine over.
 
Undo the battery. Three wire connections on the starter, two bolts on the starter. They are heeeeeeeavy bastards, especially when you do the swap in someone else's driveway in the dark. Ask me how I know. Installation is the reverse of removal; it's like bench pressing a football, if the football weighs 30 or 40 pounds and you're laying in the mud instead of on a bench :haha:

Parts store starters vary in quality; I've had the best luck with the AC Delco at the dealer. I seem to recall paying maybe $75 with exchange, but it's been a while. (Yes, the parts houses are cheaper ... and I do mean cheaper.)

I HEARTILY recommend that you go the parts house, though, and get a Chilton's or Hayne's or whatever manual... $15-20, tells you how to do all this stuff, anybody can do with a set of sockets and patience. Well, and a specialty tool:

Go to the lumberyard and get a two foot section of 2x4. When the starter solenoid sticks, just beat it with the 2x4. That'll work for a week or two until you replace the starter. All my trucks have scrap lumber in them for that, among other reasons :haha:

-- A
 
It's a really easy job, just be sure to disconnect the battery first. The dealer part is better than any reman, but if you can find a reman with a lifetime warranty, that may be worth more to you than a genuine AC Delco, as long as you don't find the swap too much of a hassle.

For reference, I used to get about a year out of a remanufactured starter before it would seem to have "dead spots". (If you use the factory tire wrench to beat your starter, you don't need to carry lumber...) Once I added a remote solenoid, the same cheapo has been working perfectly for years.
 
I try not to use large metal tools around heavy electrical wire :haha:

Duh ... good point on the solenoid. Also get one of these

https://www.dormanproducts.com/catalog/motormite/143-151SFinal.pdf#Page=7

Their part #72199. Last time I bought one they were like five bucks, though I suppose like everything else they've gone up =)) ... but it's cheaper than the PITA of dropping a starter, and they do protect the solenoids which are notoriously weak.

And the Delco's -- at least the last couple I bought, again, a few years ago -- WERE remans, and had a core charge to boot, but at least were high quality remans, i.e. I've not had a lick of trouble since.

-- A
 
The dealer part is better than any reman, but if you can find a reman with a lifetime warranty, that may be worth more to you than a genuine AC Delco, as long as you don't find the swap too much of a hassle.
Amen to this quote. Ask me, I know.

When I first bought my K30 back in '96, I had no idea what I was getting myself into with remanned starters. :mad:

That truck went thru starter after starter after starter after starter.

After the first few starters, I "upgraded" to lifetime warranty. Again, the same problem with the starters going bad. This time is was just a waste of my time to change them whenever they went bad as I got free replacements every time.

Finally after around the 10th, 11th or 12th starter, I decided it was enough. I bought a brand spanking new A/C Delco starter instead. Never had anymore grinding, nothing. Its still on the truck today.

Problem with the remanned starters is that the seat where they sit on the bottom of the block are worn out. Starters vibrate and rattle. The seats start to wear different angles and depths. Thats the reason for shims, to help take the slack out of them. If you get a brand new starter, theres a very high chance that you will not even need a shim, not one, when you bolt it up for the first time.

Oh yeah, I was getting all of my POS remanned starters from Car Quest, if that tells you anything. :rolleyes:
 
I have had about 15 re manufactured starters on my truck, never once had to shim it. I guess I'm lucky? :dunno:
 
i have a question regarding the shims...

i have been having problems with my starter recently.. and its always off balanced so the first few times its starts well.. then its just spins while hitting the metal...

how can i fix this? and how can i make sure is awlays on the right location while fitting it?
 
When you say spins while hitting the metal ... you mean like the teeth are almost catching, but they grind on the edge?

That sounds like the solenoid is closing, but the nose gear isn't sliding out, or isn't coming out all the way. There's a spring mechanism that pushes it one way or the other, maybe that's gummed up? :dunno:

-- A
 
and a year has passed and problems with my blazers starter are still there.. last month i changed the flywheel and the starter... and it was starting smooth... then just a couple of weeks after changing them it went off balance again.. all what i hear is the starter spinning.. i know its a balancing issue.. but why is it loosing balance and how can i make sure its properly done!

i'm really tired of it now and its making me want to sell the truck and just get rid of it...

what is the proper way to have it fixed or balanced?
 
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