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How do I get new wheel studs to seat?

78-K5

78-K5

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Okay, I searched and although the answer may be buried deep in another thread, I couldn't find it. So...

Just installed new 7/16 wheel studs on my 6 lug D44 last night. How do you get them to seat properly so the rotor isn't loose on the hub??

I used a punch to get them down as close as possible but they're still off and I know that method isn't going to produce a tight seal. Do I need to rely on the lug nuts to pull it all together? Seems like that would take a lot of torque!

Hope someone can help as that's the only thing concerning me about my new rotor/ caliper swap I started this evening and need to finish tomorrow!
 
If you don't have access to a press then lube the studs then use a lug nut upside down to draw the rotor/hub together (it won't take much effort really).
 
Never thought about using lube on them! Hah!

I wacked the sh*t outta them on the passenger hub I did and installed it thinking I'd draw them on using the lug nuts. I'll try the lube method on the driver side when I do it tomorrow.

I'm replacing the rotors, calipers, soft lines, and prop valve. Wish me luck!
 
Not everyone has the luxury of a 40 ton press sitting in their garage like I have. :thumb:

In the past before I had the press in my garage I either took it to my shop and used the press there or drew them on with a lug nut and lube as i've described with no issues. There is even a tool made now that has a bearing incorporated into it so there is less resistance. I'll do a quick search and see if I can find it (probably won't matter as i'm sure you want to get this done tomorrow).

A VERY QUICK search netted the tool. http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-22800-Wheel-Stud-Installer/dp/B000ETUD22
 
blazinzuk said:
Bastard!!!

I fold.

:doah:
Click to expand...


:haha:

I think I might have posted a pic of my press on here at some point but if not mine isn't any kind of cheap press, it's a Nugier 40 ton and I completely rebuilt it including having every single piece powder coated back the red that it came from the factory back in the early 50's. This press is still made today is currently $4000.00 without the cost of tax or shipping.
 
Thankfully I don't need a $4000 press. That's worth more than my truck!! LOL

That tool is pretty cool. Wonder if the local NAPA will have it.
 
Sears sells them, as do many tool trucks. I got mine from my (old, before I moved) Matco guy. They're cheap and work awesome.
 
my school has a 100 ton press that we use to shear 1/2'' plate lol, i think its a scotchman iron worker or something like that. quick and convient but aliitle over kill just to press in studs lol o and its electric or air over hydraulic for the thicker stuff lol
 
Well I just cranked them down to about 85 ft/lbs and they pulled in. I took the wheel off and re-mounted it at 55 ft/lbs.

Of course, the concern is compromising the metal studs with that much ft/lbs on them. Hopfully they don't snap.
 
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Toss them(the studs) in the freezer overnight too. You should be able to seat them with a 4way after that.
 
One regular hammer and a bigger hammer or a big hammer and a brass punch is the way I do it. Using the threads to pull the stud in usually boogers up the threads unless you lube up the threads, but sometimes is the only way to do it if you can't get to the backside of the stud to beat it in or press it in.
 
78-K5 said:
Well I just cranked them down to about 100 ft/lbs and they pulled in. I took the wheel off and re-mounted it at 55 ft/lbs.

Of course, the concern is compromising the metal studs with that much ft/lbs on them. Hopfully they don't snap.
Click to expand...

Please don't follow this advice, I've lost a wheel on the highway from overtightening and stretching the wheel studs...

Either use a press or stud setting tool.
 
manchildau65 said:
Please don't follow this advice, I've lost a wheel on the highway from overtightening and stretching the wheel studs...

Either use a press or stud setting tool.
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I totally understand the concern, and that was mine as well. I could feel a point where the studs stopped being pulled in though. It was a NOTICEABLE increase in effort. It was at this point I gave it about another turn or so and backed off. Now that I think about it, I put 85 ft lbs NOT 100 lb/lbs on the studs initially.

I'm going to re-edit my above post to reflect the inaccuracy.
 
Just an FYI, most lug nuts call for 90-100 ft/lbs normally. My wife's civic recommends 80, my dads 02 burb is 140... I never torque truck lugs less than 100. Don't need to go losing any wheels now.
 
i installmiine with an air hammer. just a flat rounded end bit. it takes about 10 seconds each stud. and they endup tight. except 14b. the splines on those studs are really long. i put them in with a drift and hammer. then hit em with the air hammer to make sure they are seated.
 
k5s call for 90 or 95 IIRC. I just torque mine to 100 and call it done. I work at a tire shop and i've never had a wheel fall off for a customer nor myself so i think my advice is fairly sound :dunno: .
 
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