CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

How Do I Know If My Ip Is Going Out?

dallassnowman

1/2 ton status
Joined
Sep 14, 2003
Posts
339
Reaction score
0
Location
Forney, Texas
I have a 82 blazer and recently started experimenting with veggi oil. I know my motor was weak before, but now it is surging and quits when it heats up....maybe its the fuel pump? I replaced the electric carter pump with an old one i had in my toolbox, and the same thing happens. HELP!!
Could it still be the fuel pump? My truck surges then basicly looses all power, but never shuts off. After it sits a while it runs fine.
 
I have a 82 blazer and recently started experimenting with veggi oil. I know my motor was weak before, but now it is surging and quits when it heats up....maybe its the fuel pump? I replaced the electric carter pump with an old one i had in my toolbox, and the same thing happens. HELP!!
Could it still be the fuel pump? My truck surges then basicly looses all power, but never shuts off. After it sits a while it runs fine.

You're asking a worn IP to push a fuel that is much more viscous and can contain solids.. biofuels will expose every weak spot in your system.
 
You're asking a worn IP to push a fuel that is much more viscous and can contain solids.. biofuels will expose every weak spot in your system.

What he said ^. The pump was designed for diesel fuel - period. Veggie oil, even when very hot, is much more viscous and will beat the crap out of the pump. I know 4by4bygod doesn't like biodiesel either, but it at least has similar viscosity and injection characteristics as petroleum diesel. If you're gonna mess with biofuel, that is the best bet.
 
What he said ^. The pump was designed for diesel fuel - period. Veggie oil, even when very hot, is much more viscous and will beat the crap out of the pump. I know 4by4bygod doesn't like biodiesel either, but it at least has similar viscosity and injection characteristics as petroleum diesel. If you're gonna mess with biofuel, that is the best bet.

Yup - if you really want to run a biofuel, BD is much easier on the equipment than veggie oil.
 
My truck surges then basicly looses all power, but never shuts off. After it sits a while it runs fine.

Likely its your filters and they are clogged. Its easy enough to replace and start with the easy stuff first...

Give me details about your veggie oil use. Are you running 100%? Is it warm, or are you trying to burn unheated oil? If it is warm, what sort of heater are you using? Electric line heater or coolant heat exchanger?
How long have you been doing it? How long has the problem been going on? Does it get better or worse as you drive it and the system heats up?
 
Well I just statrted, my 2nd try. My first was 10 gallons diesel, 10 gallons filtered veggie. It ran awesome, stronger and smoother. I went to buy more filtered oil and he pumped 20 gallons directly into tank (no heat) to mix with my 10 gallons diesel. From his house about 10 miles down the road it started loosing power, until I was stuck on the side of the road. So now when the truck is cold it will run and drive about 5 miles. After I changed both fuel filters it ran good but did it again.So I drained out 20 gallons of the diesel mix and added 20 gallons of diesel. I'm looking at some of the oil I bought after its been settling in a clear container and there is white junk on the bottom!! Did that crap clog my system? I'm thinking he pumped it into my tank unsetteled. I havent gotten that far yet to have an extra tank to run it straight, like I want to. I was simply trying it out as a test for my truck.
 
NEVER put that crap straight into your tank. You have to filter used veggie oil 2-3 times before you put it in.

A water seperator is a must as well to prevent IP failure.

As long as it is filtered well, mixing it 50/50 with diesel is a decent way to run it on a motor your not afraid to blow up. 6.2L's are good for this since they are so cheap compared to other motors.
 
I went to buy more filtered oil and he pumped 20 gallons directly into tank (no heat) to mix with my 10 gallons diesel. From his house about 10 miles down the road it started loosing power, until I was stuck on the side of the road.
white junk on the bottom

ok, thats what i needed to hear.
Id be weary of this guy, anyone who dumps in straight veggie oil in any quantity better know exactly what your truck is running, and i get the hint he does not if he is dumping that much oil into a unconverted system.
That is wayyyyyy too much oil for the amount of #2 you were running in an unheated system. I have had good luck running up to 35% oil per diesel in a unheated system which is roughly 5 gallons in my truck. More then that and you get a lot of buildup/carbon-oily residue in the cylinder from the oil. Very hard cold starting and the cold oil will 'clog' your oem filters until it heats up on very chilly mornings.

My advise; run a tank of 100% diesel to clean the oil out of your system so you know what you are starting with. Then proceed without Colonel Veggie's help. Id run some fuel additive to try and clean out your fuel system, but it wont make that drastic of a difference if you decide not to. (i always run fuel additive, i could get into the water issues but id rather not. Just run some with each tank and be happy)

Replace your filters right after you fill up with #2. Even if you replaced them last week, id replace them again. Then cut them open and post pictures so we can all get a good laugh at your expense.
Im just kidding man, but you might be amazed how much crap is in there. Or they might be clean. Who knows, but if you are seeing water fall out of the oil sample you took... i have a hunch its going to be funny/scary.

that white crap is most likely settled water and bad news. Id also suggest if you are going to buy your oil to get a better supplier because that is unacceptable. If you are getting it for free, hey, who's to complain.
No matter what oil you use you will want to be sure of its quality or do the steps yourself if you are not sure, or if you dont believe the guy.
Google "wvo drying", "drying waste oil" "filtering wvo" and similar searches. Read all those articles and see what works best for you and build that setup. You will also need to filter the oil and those options vary greatly. The more drying/filtering you do out of the car, the less filtering you will have to do in the car, and the longer old smokey (your truck) will run.
I can post pics of my setup if you care to see what my solution is, but i dont want to skew you away from what might be best for your solution.

Either way, you will have to dry it and filter it down to X micron. (I say 2 micron, some say 5 micron, some say 10, some say 20.) Do a lot of reading and decide whats best for you. Take everything (even this post) with a grain of salt. What works for me... well you know.

then you will need to build a filter setup in your truck. the oem filters are a joke if you are going to be running a lot of mystery fluid through it. Dont take this as a flame or anything, i am in the same boat as you and lord knows i dump all sorts of trash into my tank. But with a good filter setup you can do a lot less worrying and get a lot more miles out of your fuel system.

Google "2 micron fuel filter" or "dual fuel filter" "DIY dual fuel filter" and you should get some good hits from the common diesel boards. The common setup is 2 of the napa filter head (3772? 2377? 3774? something like that) with a 10 micron filter with water sep, then a 2 micron filter. Again, i can get you real numbers if you get stuck.
So you run these two filters after your lift pump but before your oem filters. These big filters last a long time and they work worlds better then what came in there from GM. Added bonus, these wix filters are a lot cheaper (and easier to replace) than the facotry filters. So as the years go on, you just replace these and leave the oem filters there forever.

But for now on your truck like i said, id run 100% diesel with an additive and flush out the tank. Add the DIY dual filter setup then dry/filter your WVO and add it in small increments until you start to notice bad things are happening. Id be suprised if you get over 40% before you start to notice issues.
and keep in mind, the more cold oil you run (even when mixed with #2) the more deposits and buildup you are going to get on your glow plugs, injectors, cups, pistons...

Also worth a mention, BioDiesel does an excellent job of cleaning out your fuel system and combustion chamber. Tank, lines, injectors, pistons, its amazing. Its also amazing how quickly your fuel filters will trap this crap and become clogged. So dont be suprised if you need to replace them in short order after starting to run BioD.
So you might consider running a tank of BioD every now and then if you are running WVO. but here again, be sure of your source and getting good fuel.
 
Sweet!!!!! Thats a lot of good info...Just what I needed, especially the filter info. I just came back from the garage and cleaning out my tank, and I had about 5 gallons, sucked out, and the liquid is dark. Tomorrow I will change my filters and fill up with diesel. I know I will go back to wvo, but in a different heated tank that I can switch back to diesel. Should I get a heated filter setup before my factory fiilters? What do you do? I haven't been able to find anyone that would help me with good info. Well this guy says he de-waters and filters it down to 1 micron. I noticed he only has 1 holding tank for the filtered good oil. So my guess is he just finished filtering some oil and not settling the oil. And I got the mix of crap!
 
I'll formulate a longer response in a bit, work really gets in the way of surfing the web.
But id be suspect of anyone that says they filter to one micron. try looking for a one micron filter, i didnt find any after a quick search. Im not saying they dont exist, only that sounds suspect.

Be right back...
 
2 micron is definitely out there...I had one on my Jimmy.

Rene
 
Well it was my darn filters!! I drained my tank, changed all fuel filters and it works now. When I poured out my stock filters into a clear cup it was very dirty and cloudy....big stuff floatin around!
 
If you add the DIY dual filter setup you wont have to hassle with the OEM ones again, and they will last much much longer.
Now is the time!
 
Thats what I need! How should I do it? Do you bypass the filter under the air filter?
What type do I get? I have so many questions. My goal is to be burning oil by deer season!
 
I added the dual filters before the primary filter and kept the OEM filters in place, just as an added sense of security although i doubt i'll ever change them again.

Find the line that goes from your lift pump to the primary filter and re-route that to the DIY setup. Its rubber at the lift pump, then goes to steel along the top of the head, then back to rubber before it meets the primary. I used the rubber portion right before the primary to run to my DIY setup.
I also added the cheap Facet lift pump to make priming easier.

I'll post some pics tonight.
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom