How do I remove the "pin and plate" style spindle nut on a Dana 60?

[Arrover]

I want to check my wheel bearings since I don't know their service history. Tonight I removed the lock out hub to see what style spindle nut socket I need to buy. I thought it would be the 6 prong stlye but I actually need the 4 prong style. How does this nut locking system work? I didn't degrease everything to figure it out because I wanted to put it back together and drive the truck until I buy the spindle nut socket. It looks like there is a small retaining nut with one notch in it, then the outer spindle nut (with 4 notches), then the washer with all of the holes in it and then the inner spindle nut? My main questions are: how does the small outer nut come off and is there actually a small pin that goes through the holes in the washer?

Greasy picture is mine and the parts picture is from ORD's website.

 

[K85 Octane]

that "one notch" is the end of the spindle

 

[Arrover]

Haha! Thanks K85. Whoops....

Is the outer spindle nut locked in place somehow or just unscrew with the correct socket?

 

[Fordum]

The outer nut is just torqued down really hard. You put on the inner nut with the little pin. Look close at your clean pic, and you can see the pin.
Then you torque it down to the correct amount for the bearing preload.

Then put on that washer with the holes. It has a tab that fits in the slot in the spindle you thought was the nut.
That keeps it from turning.
Then, when the pin goes in one of the holes, it stops the inside nut from turning.

The trick is, even with all those holes, often the pin does not hit one. So, when putting it back together, you have to be careful and make sure. If it does not, you take the washer back out, and slightly move the nut to line it up.
Sometimes, you can turn the washer over, and it will hit a hole.

Then, when its in the hole, you put on the outside nut and torque it down good and hard.
It has no effect on the bearing preload, its just there to keep the washer in place.

If you miss a hole, and tighten the outside nut down anyway, you either snap off the pin, or push it through the nut.
In which case usually the bearing get loose sooner or later.
Some people have saved the inside nut after that by driving the pin back out to where it should be.
I'm never that lucky. I have to either buy a new nut or find a pin to fit.......

 

[blazinzuk]

The key to saving those if you break the pin is to put a tack weld behind it when you push it through. Then ginding smooth. Best way to get it out is put a blow gun in one of the open holes give it a small burst of air and then pop it out

 

[Fordum]

Yeah you lucky guys who get to do a lot of your work in shops........
I never had access to air when I was working on either my Jeep, or my '79 Ford, both of which used the same system.

I was always way back in the swamp, and felt myself blessed if the ground was dry when I was working on the bearings.
I had a neat pair of long thin electronic type needle nose pliers that I could slip in two of the holes and slide it right out.

Bet the air trick would have been easier.

 

[Arrover]

Thank you guys for the help! I think I know how it works now.