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how do you change camber...

shady

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due to another thread on here involving caster.... it got me wondering how you would go about adjusting camber on a d44 or any straight axle truck... the axle I just put in my kids truck has a lot of positive camber for some reason:dunno:
 
That's easy - jump it!

There are two ways to adjust camber a little. First there are the off-center ball joint adjusting sleeves. You can move the camber and/or caster a little with these. They also make a tapered shim that goes between the hub and the spindle. This is more straightforward because you know just how many degrees you are inserting.

But if it's a ton of positive caster, it's possible somebody mixed and matched parts together.
 
well.... yes:whistle: that's exactly what we did... it looks the same on both sides... but we took the knuckles off of the old axle and put them on the new axle.... both d44's from first gen blazers... ive seen people on here buying and swapping them a lot and never heard of issues with it:dunno:
 
Links. Fully adjustable.

I'm really no help.

Camber in links? Never go full retard man :haha:


As said go with the spindle shims. Those camber balljoint sleeves are bull**** IMO. Ive never heard of throwing the camber off by swapping parts around. Everything on a dana 44/dana 60/10bolt front end is set for 0 camber. The only way that would be possible is if at some point in time they altered the ackerman measurements between the upper and lower ball joint and miss matching them with a different housing tilts the knuckles. But again Ive never heard of that.

Usually camber being off comes with a bent housing.
 
I found the adjusting sleeves that thread in the top... I'm not sure they can do enough:dunno: the tires are 34" tall and it looks like the top leans out about 1" - 1.5" I haven't measured it though. the sleeves are cheap enough ill try em though. gotta do something
 
the housing looks straight to me. I cant find the sleeves things.. ill keep looking.
 
found the shims:D now to figure out how far out it is:thinking:
 
their both the same though:dunno: and spindles appear seated good
 
If both of them are the exact same I would say theres got to be a parts mismatch somewhere. How likely could it be you come down on the front end enough to bend it and then bend a 8" tube and a 30+ inch tube the exact same amount.
 
when I get the drivers side wheel back on ill get accurate measurements for shims and take pics. ill be up there tomorrow
 
Wouldn't spindle shims cause the spindle nuts to not sit flat putting stress on the bolts? Isn't this the same theory as why you don't use angled shims on a D60 spring pad because the bolts for the studs on the passenger would not sit flat and break them? Please clarify.
 
I'm running the shims on my burb. Forget which ones.

I had to run close to the max they'd allow, and remember, when you change the camber with shims, it changes the toe in/out.

I cut a piece of square stock the exact size of the rim (lip to lip), and used my iphone to find the angle after i zero'd it out on the rear wheels.. Then i set it back closer to 0˚ with the shims. They worked great.

Edit: I used these https://www.ingallseng.com/shims/
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=260975&highlight=camber+shims&page=9

Post 340
 
Wouldn't spindle shims cause the spindle nuts to not sit flat putting stress on the bolts? Isn't this the same theory as why you don't use angled shims on a D60 spring pad because the bolts for the studs on the passenger would not sit flat and break them? Please clarify.

Yep you're not wrong but it can be easily fixed with an aluminum or copper washer.
 
I suppose they should offer angled washers with the shims. That's what I've used for center bolts with spring shims.
 

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