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How do you run a PTO winch with hydraulics vs. a shaft?

handloader90

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Got a free 20k PTO winch on a deal. Believe it to be made by a company called Braden.

Transmission will be a NV4500 most likely mated to an NP205.

Doubt I'll find any PTO's for the NV4500 or 205, if I did they probably won't be in my price range.

I've done some research and I've seen a few things about using hydraulics vs. a PTO shaft.

How does it all work and what is needed?

Also, I'm planning on rigging this up between the frame rails in the back.
 
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I've had a couple 4500 with PTO's on them. Ended up selling them for $100 or so. Easier to find one for those than a 205.
 
My concern with PTO winches is if you need the winch because the motor doesn't run, you're hosed
 
PTO winch for me has always been more of a work related tool rather than an extraction means.... but if the motor is running they will damn sure pull you out.
I've never given much thought to a hydraulic pto... does the pump run off of the gear box?
 
PTO winch for me has always been more of a work related tool rather than an extraction means.... but if the motor is running they will damn sure pull you out.
I've never given much thought to a hydraulic pto... does the pump run off of the gear box?
Yes, if you have ever seen a Muncie drive on a tow truck, KW or a Mack, just bolts up to the side cover and has a lever to engage to drive the pump

No doubt they work, but work took rather than extracting hit the nail on the head
 
I pulled an old 15k pto winch off of a 1979 F250 I was robbing parts from years ago....It was an old hill country farm truck and the winch was up front. I would have been willing to bet that was waaaaaay more winch than that truck would ever need. But I could see it being handy around the ranch
 
So, it has to has the PTO regardless if it is shaft driven or hydraulic?

I heard that using hydraulics you habe to use an additional power steering pump.

Is there some kind of hydraulic contraption that attached to the body of the winch?
 
Its been forever since I've looked at a truck hydraulic setup but i believe there's the PTO and it is shafted to the pump, then the pump is hosed to the winch.
So yeah, regardless the PTO is there.
 
Lord, I'm feeling very old........
I started thinking back about PTO winches, and realized just how long its been...
I actually predate truck mounted winches!

I won't go into the whole story, since it goes back before 1963, just let me say, I have a lot of experience with winches. Overall, I prefer PTO. Like bent77 said, electric will pull you out when the motor won't run, but sooner or later you run out of battery without the motor running. Unless you invest in a huge alternator, you run out even with the motor running.
As for my qualifications, my '60 CJ5 had a Konig PTO shaft driven winch that I did terrible things with. Then my '79 F150 had a Braden PTO shaft driven winch, that I actually suspended the truck in midair between an anchor tree and a stuck dump truck.
When I bought my '89 F250, then had changed the exhaust system to the point I could not get a shaft from the PTO to the front of the truck. So, I turned the PTO around backwards to clear the auto transmission bell housing, put a large hydraulic pump on it, and put a hydraulic driven Braden PTO on the front.

As for PTO adapters for a 205, they are plentiful and not too expensive. Both my '79 and my '89 used 205s
.
Here are some pictures of the latest: https://ck5.com/forums/threads/hydraulic-pto-winch-pics.249796/

And here is a link to a picture of a 205 adapter. https://ck5.com/forums/threads/winch-idea-input-help.324683/#post-3608612

It looks exactly like the one on my old '79. Same make, bet it was the same model.

As for between the rails mount, here is my story on that.

Along about 1963, my father saw an ad in a magazine for something new. It was an electric winch designed to go on the front of a pickup truck so you did not have to dig yourself out any more.
He bought it, put it on his friend's truck, and it did not work. Later, we figured out what was wrong, modified it, and a friend of mine made a lot of money building and selling them.
Meanwhile, my father and his friend had gotten the winch bug. He ordered one from Braden. There was a misunderstanding, and it came in on a railway flat car. Darn near bigger than a pickup truck.
It was sent back, and a normal sized one sent.

I was fairly young, so a lot of the details I never knew, and others I have forgotten. But they mounted the winch on the front of his friend's Chevy pickup.

He either ordered it with, or swapped in a 4 or 5 speed transmission so the PTO would fit. In 1963, for 1/2 ton pickups, there were no such things as overload front springs, or aftermarket kits.
The winch was too heavy for that truck. He went down dirt roads bottoming out in front, and sometimes the front bumper would actually scoop up sand and throw it on the windshield.
They took it back to the equipment shop that installed it at first, and they got creative.

At this point, sadly, I run out of details. I was not involved in the planning or construction, nor was I curious enough to crawl under and look. So I do not know how they did what they did. I can report the results.
They cut a hole in the bed of the truck, right behind the cab. Mounted the winch in the bed, with the cable going down. I have never known how they got a drive-shaft from the PTO adapter on the side of the transmission to the winch.
I have always wondered if they had a intermediate right angle gear box or if maybe the transmission PTO opening was far enough back that the shaft could go straight up to the winch.
If anybody out there is familiar enough with that vintage transmission and truck to know where the PTO opening is in relation to the back of the cab Please let me know.

However they got the power to the winch, the cable went straight down obviously to a heavy pulley, then through a couple of guide blocks to a hole cut in the front bumper. The roller fairlead was mounted to the front bumper.
Someone built a heavy wooden box that sat over the winch and protected it from the elements and kept things from getting caught in it. I rode hundreds of miles through the woods kneeling on that box as I was growing up.
The setup worked well, I suppose. It had its problems, but not due to the design. The guy who owned the truck was hard on it. Especially since he had the winch. He was not afraid to put that 2wd truck in the worst places you could imagine, since he had the huge winch to drag him out.

Over the years, he hit stumps, and damaged the guides under the truck. Once crimping it down so bad he could not get the cable out and had to walk out. To pay out the cable, he put the winch in reverse. It had a freewheel lever on the winch, but he did not use it.

AHA! I just realized something. When he died, we got the winch back. I used it on the front of my '79 F150 with heavier springs. When I went to put it on, I had to have a piece welded on the freewheel lever because it was sawed off.
If the winch had been mounted in the back of the truck with the input shaft facing down, that lever would have kept it from fitting flush to the back of the cab. I bet that was why it was sawed off.
The only other problem he had, was also related to hitting stumps. He managed to bend one of the guides, and it let the cable rub on a cross-member. Over a couple of years, it sawed the cross-member so deep that it broke and had to be welded.
Other than those problems, it did a great job for many many years.
The single worst thing that we ever did with that setup, was the stainless steel cable. Back then, no one around here ever heard of galvanized cable. On my Jeep, when I bought a new cable, the first thing I did, was buy a full quart of cheap motor oil, and slowly pour the entire quart on the spool of new cable.
Then whenever I put oil in the engine, I would let the can sit on the cable open side down for a while to let the dregs drip out onto the cable. What with dirt, dust, bugs, and small birds sticking to the cable, it made an incredible mess.
But the cable did not rust.
With his under the box, it never got oiled, and had to be replaced often.
One day, my father found a source for stainless cable, and bought enough to fill the winch. That was a disaster. I'm sure that it would have been fine on a normal winch. But with all the damaged guides, it was a choice slice of Hell.
The guides damaged the cable. Everytime a strand of the cable broke, it would spring out in a hook shape with with razor sharp ends. I swear that you could just walk within 2 feet of that cable and it would reach out and tear out a hunk of flesh.
And heaven help you if you were between the front of the truck and the end of the cable if someone let go of the hook.
It would spring back, and coil like a striking rattlesnake. Even though I was young, I was smart enough and fast enough it never got me, but my father, his friend, and a couple of other people got snared over the years, and it was all hands on deck to get him out.

They finally got rid of the cable and went back to regular steel core.

OK, you just posted while I was writing this, so I need to answer. You mount a hydraulic motor on the winch when you want to go hydraulic. They are also plentiful and cheap. My Braden was ordered as a hydraulic drive, so the motor was sorta built in. You could rig a mount for a hydraulic motor, but I would see if Braden would sell you a kit if you want to go that way.
I do not recommend trying to use the power steering pump unless its a fairly small winch. Mile Marker uses the pump, and it seems to work fine for them. But they use a small motor.
My big 12,000 winch, for full speed and power needs about 15-20 gallons per minute at about 1,000 psi. A power steering pump puts out about 2 gpm.

Let me post this, think about it, and let me know your next questions. Bottom line is, if you can easily go shaft drive, its more simple.
 
OK, first things first. I'm guessing that its a standard looking Braden winch like mine. If so, pull the big filler plug on top. Look down inside, and you should see the top edge of a big bronze gear.
The teeth should be square and flat on top. If they are thin and sharp, then you cannot trust the winch. That gear is too worn. Either due to use or lack of oil. It can be rebuilt, but needs to be before mounting.
Look at my winch picture. Your winch will have a shaft sticking out. They make an adapter that bolts onto the winch, probably using longer bolts that hold the bearing cap on. Then the motor bolts onto the adapter with a coupling between the hydraulic motor shaft and the winch shaft.
The shaft sticking out of yours is part of the worm that engages the bronze gear.
My worm does not have a shaft that sticks out the bearing housing. It has a splined socket that the splined output shaft of the hydraulic motor fits into. Its a nice system. I don't think that you could convert to that unless you were going to have to change the bronze gear anyway. You would have to change the worm, and I'm not sure if its recommended to put a new worm on a used gear.
The only real problem with an external adapter, is it takes up more room. If you have the room, it works just as well as the built in version.

Braden winch company is still in business, I think they are a division of Paccar now. https://www.paccarwinch.com/?site=Braden

I bought a new winch in '89, because after 26 years, three vehicles, and probably miles of near overload winching, I was afraid that it might need some reworking. I called Sam Winer motors, because I saw them as a rep for Braden winches in an ad. I wanted to get the winch reworked, and modified for hydraulic. They said that they could sell me a new winch with a motor already mounted for close to the same amount.
So, I retired the old winch and bought new.
That was my only contact with the company, but they did me a good job.
http://samwinermotors.com/
If the gear looks OK, I would do a search for Braden dealers in your area, or contact Braden directly. Also, get the model number off your winch, and see if you can download a service or owners manual off the Braden website. It may also have info on adapters.
You need a manual to tell how to configure the brake. The brake is configured to release when drawing in, and apply braking action to the end of the worm when at rest. Under extreme loads, with the shaft input device freewheeling, the winch can creep backwards.
The brake prevents this, without stopping the winch from being reversed under power. However, the brake does drag in reverse. Its oil filled, so there is not a lot of wear, but its best if it is in release when winching in.
Since different mounting situations cause forward and reverse to be swapped, the brake is designed to be reversed also. Its easy to do, but you need the manual.
 
There are hydraulic pumps that will mount on the engine, driven by belt and have a clutch like an A/C compressor.
They came out with them back in the nineties for small wreckers and rollbacks with automatic transmission.

I didn't see were it was mentioned, (sorry if I missed it) but you would need a control valve and a reservoir.
I like hydraulic for lots if reasons, such as feathering the function, and no direct line of sight required, like a driveshaft .
But it will take up some space for all of the components used. So how much do you plan on using it to justify the dollars, work and space required?
 
I have posted lots about my system on various threads. On a couple I mentioned the engine mounted pumps. And included a link to a company that makes them in one of the threads.
My old winch was shaft driven, and when I was pulling someone out, I would often drop the transfer case into gear and back up to finish pulling them out when they got mostly out.
The winch would be turning backwards while I was doing that, but it was very slow, so it didn't have any effect.
When I ordered the pump and PTO adapter combo, I asked what would happen if I spun the pump backward. The guy on the phone said he did not know for sure, but he thought it would blow the front seal out of the pump.
I never verified that, just made darn sure to not shift the transmission into reverse while the PTO was engaged. Because of that, I often wanted an engine mounted pump, but I had a system that worked, so I left it alone.
I found out a different side of the situation about a year ago.
I have a friend who owns a successful wrecker service. I was with him looking at used wreckers. One looked good, but had an engine mounted pump. He turned it down because of that.
I asked why, he said it worked well, but he had had problems in the past with belt slippage, clutch problems and other things. As he said, if everything was perfect, he would buy a wrecker with one, but that overall the PTO models worked better.
Since he uses hydraulic winches more in a month than I might use one in a year, I tend to listen to his opinion.
In over 26 years of using my hydraulic winch, other than the tank leak, the only complaint I have had is with the PTO control cable.
The one that came with the unit was basically a choke cable. Since it pulled to engage, you could engage the PTO well, but when you went to disengage it, the center cable would bend, and you had to work to get it out of gear.
I upgraded it to the one you see in the picture. It worked just good enough for me to not do more. One of these days when I am reworking the system, I am going to go with one of the transmission shifting type cables.
Its a lot stronger and a positive type shift.
I have seen other PTO setups where they used a lever and rod setup mounted on the floor like a transmission or transfer case.

And, yes, there are lots of other things to a system. I have a motor spool valve, large hoses, and should have a screen on the output of the tank to protect the pump, and a finer filter on the return line to keep the fines out of the system.
And with the gear ratio on that winch, I really wish I had a two speed motor on it. That way I could use high speed to wind up the slack cable after a pull, and the low speed in pulling.
It was an option with my winch, but I did not get it.
 
Yup, you just went over lots of info that I learned in the years that I ran wrecker. The only reason that I mentioned the clutch pump is ease of install. Believe me that if I owned a wrecker, the bed would be powered by a transmission driven PTO, not a clutch pump.

I have ran trucks with a power tower on the auxiliary transmission. That would be the least complex. Put a PTO on the 205, run a shaft to the winch, and use the transmission to select speed and direction. I wouldn't use it with anything but a manual transmission.

As far as speed, that is the big downfall to a worm drive winch. And how fast can you turn the input before galling occurs on the gears?
A hydraulic driven planetary winch is the best IMO.

Side note.. I once had a Chevy dually with a SM465, 205, and a 3 speed brownie box behind that. PTO winch off of the 205.
Quite the set-up.
 
We run hydraulic pto powered Ramsey winches on both of our C4500 medium duty trucks. Pretty bulletproof setups for towing. Only issue we usually have is when my drivers are a little less than kind to the cable. We switched from round wound cable to flat wound and they seem to hold up to the abuse better. Mainly pulling over the edge of the rollback deck without tilting it.

The PTO winch is the standard of the towing industry for sure. The problem in the off road world is the bulk and complexity. An extra drive shaft off of the PTO drive or hydraulic lines is more stuff to package in an area fighting for space with the front axle in it's travel.

Mile Marker made a pretty heavy push into the 4x4 world back in the 90's. I remember checking out their booth at SEMA when I went in 95 during college. They were running on a modified power steering pump to supply the needed volume to work right.
 
My K30 with TH400 has a front PTO winch. The only thing I don't like is the shaft from the PTO to the winch takes up enough real estate that I can't run headers. There are mud/snow trail days I've been thankful to have a pto that can pull without limit. I'll see if I can find a pic or two later today.
 
Yep, on my '79, I was able to get the shaft up front with only a slight jog and an extra pillow block. But, when '89 rolled around, the exhaust system had been changed to the point that there was no way to do it. Which is why I went hydraulic.
As for using a PTO behind an automatic, with hydraulics its a non-issue. But even with the C6 on my '79, it was not too bad. I got very good at kicking the transmission into neutral just a second or two before it was necessary to give it time to shift.

Of course, I had to deal with the "creep", but if I needed it to be a positive stop, I would kick it into reverse for a second to stop the gears from turning, then into park.
However with my old Jeep with its manual transmission, I had very precise control, and could use it to stretch fence with out damage.

As for the speed of a worm gear setup, with good oil and a light load, you can drive it fairly fast with no damage. The key is the light load.
I would only use the high speed for winding up the cable after use.

And yes, planetary is the way to go for speed and power combined. The electric winches my friend and I used to build were all planetary.
 
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