Ok, before this debate goes too far, I would like to share some information.
From
http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/tech/coolingmods.cfm I give you the following:
The pressure in the block is higher than the radiator pressure, this is because the pump is building pressure due to the thermostat being a restriction. This pressure raises the boiling point of the coolant and reduces the chance of steam pockets, so never run with out a thermostat (or some form of restriction). The radiator cap will usually hold 15-18 psi, if the radiator holds the system at 15 psi, the boiling point of plain water will be raised to 250° F. The water pump can then make an additional 40-45 psi in the engine and bring that boiling point close to 300° F. So as you can see, pressure is important.
From
http://www.off-road.com/rick/thermo.html :
Heat is generated inside a running engine. The harder you run it, the hotter it gets.
The higher the rpm you turn, the faster the water moves through the cooling system.
The radiator is designed to get rid of most of the heat. Your engine oil and the metal parts in the block will get rid of some heat through dissipation.
In a race truck, most do not run a thermostat. It's just one more thing to go wrong.
However, all savvy racers run a restructure plate. It's nothing more than a flat piece of metal with a hole drilled in it. In my experience, I have never had a "hole" fail. I have had thermostats fail.
What size hole, you ask?
While this varies, most racers who run V8s eventually settle on a 5/8th inch hole. Of course, you must experiment, but I've found this to work on most everything from a 302 to a 505 inch Ford.
You must run some sort of restriction. Failure to do so lets the water pass through the block too quickly, preventing it from extracting heat properly.That's right, bubba. Your temp gauge will read OK and your block will be cooking!
Engines that are heavily affected by a "no thermostat" condition are
small block Chevys and big block Fords. Both will develop air pockets in the water flow when the engines are revved hard with no thermostat, or restructure.
Water does, indeed, run cooler than anti-freeze/water mix. However, anti freeze is an excellent lubricant for your water pump and does prevent corrosion in your cooling system.
In my race vehicles, I ran water only and then drained it out after the race and added some anti-freeze for the storage time between races. Naturally, I started the engine on the mix to allow it to circulate.
I'm not saying that you shouldn't take the thermostat out, just make sure you run some sort of restriction. The cooling system depends on that restriction.
There are many more people that say the same thing.
http://www.woodyg.com/fairlane/finfo/coolingsystem4.html for example
It seems that the experts agree that it is the pressure the thermostat creates inside the block, not the fact that it slows the coolant through the radiator. They also agree that you need some sort of restriction.
The opening and closing to regulate temperature is important to help get the engine up to operating temperature as fast as it can, so that it is more efficient.
Just wanted to stop a
heated argument before it got started.
