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How does one justify?

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Miller75

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Ok I've been looking around at prices for axles swaps and a 14b ff is justifiable since the average price is about 100 dollars but on the other extreme to get the recommended D60 its on average 1000 + which is kind of a hard sell when I paid 1000 for the truck to start with...

Also I'm in a conundrum with whether or not to tear the truck down and save the frame from further rust damage.
 
You go through enough axle and bearing failures from big tires and you'll be able to justify the cost of the D60.
 
Run whats in there till it breaks. As soon as you have to put $100 into it, go find a D60 to put $100 into. Just a thought.
 
I look at it this way...I bought a $700 truck to attach/store parts on/under so that the neighbors can't gripe as much...it's technically a registered vehicle and not just an example of a residential wrecking yard. Every once in a while, the planets align and I am actually able to drive my expensive axles and tires around.

It starts with tires and axles, then I build my way through the drivetrain across the frame. Screw with the motor last because you can't break much with an anemic small block.

The things that take the most abuse and are the most time consuming to repair are the body and frame. They're also some of the cheapest to just full-on replace. Being on the west coast, I doubt I'll ever need to replace the frame, but when my body becomes a headache, it will just get replaced with a straighter, rust-free one.

The only parts that are really worth your effort are things like axles. If you do it right, you will just be messing with wear items some day....Good luck maintaining a body and keeping its integrity from deteriorating over time if you're actually wheeling the truck hard, if you don't want to dent it, don't wheel it. Limiting factors off road should be things like, lack of traction, flotation, wheelbase, center of gravity, etc....not things like "I'll scratch my paint".

Not that I'm saying everyone should tear up their truck...I'm just saying if you're really serious wheeling, there is already enough limiting factors without worrying about sliding in to a tree or hanging up on a rock. Ever watched competitions? They only care about breakage...sliding, slamming, scratching...it doesn't matter so long as you're still advancing, and it's still difficult without worrying about all the aesthetic stuff.

If you aren't wheeling something that's all function over form like that, then money in axles probably isn't the right path to take, or at least isn't a necessity. If it's just a light wheeling rig that's fun to drive on the road too, you probably don't want a tire bigger than 37" and there's probably bigger priorities with money than an axle you can't break.

I will hands down say that a 60 is cheaper and easier to work on than a 44. As long as I have even a DD truck with a smaller axle in it, I will be searching for a kingpin axle to swap in. Kingpins are superior to balljoints in every way I can think of. They're easier and cheaper to do steering on, easier to maintain, way stronger knuckles...

I'm kind of surprised that with companies like Reid and Crane making knuckles for 44s, and all the Jeep guys that waste money on swapping them in, that nobody has made a kingpin inner c and knuckle for them. Not something I would ever do, but if you're already throwing the money at a pair of knuckles, why not just cut and turn while you're at it. Would be a pretty slick setup if you cast the top for the same bolt pattern as a 60. Then you'd have all kinds of cheap and readily available steering arms.
 
Miller75 said:
Ok I've been looking around at prices for axles swaps and a 14b ff is justifiable since the average price is about 100 dollars but on the other extreme to get the recommended D60 its on average 1000 + which is kind of a hard sell when I paid 1000 for the truck to start with...

Also I'm in a conundrum with whether or not to tear the truck down and save the frame from further rust damage.
Click to expand...


Here's an example...

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=283655

Myself, I swapped my 8 lug d44 under my crew cab and gained a d60 for the Blazer...
 
owenst7 said:
It's people like you that force me to explain to newbs that are 60-shopping not to get screwed when buying a parts truck!

Just giving you a hard time :D
Click to expand...


I sold it as a 1 ton with 3/4 ton running gear...:D The guy wanted a work truck and didn't care about the d60...

I have seen a lot of guys get screwed because they didn't know how to tell if it still has the d60 under it... But here's the thing, if you can't tell the difference, you probably aren't ready to tackle this type of upgrade yet...

A lot of guys need to put in a bit more wrench time and gain some experience before jumping into a 1 ton swap... I went threw the whole deal of buying stuff and later realizing I should have waited... It's just part of the learning curve...

But I agree, some newb will probably get screwed somewhere down the road and just assume it's a 60 because it's a crew cab... To be honest, I'm not gonna lose any sleep over it... It left my possession as a known 3/4 ton...:waytogo:
 
do it the cheap way. find someone on craigslist that doesn't know what they have and buy there old rusty eyesore of a 1-ton truck sitting in there front yard for $200.
 
how did i justify the 3/4 ton dana 44 to 1ton dana 60 swap. ?

had 38" swampers and 4.10 gears with open diff. took out 2 sets of gears in less than 4 play time fun days with the truck. said no more of this crap.

found a 60 and swaped from drw to srw and reman on king pins little later from worn parts and death wobble. other than that still goin to this day in 2nd truck with 8 or 9 foot fisher snow plow off it in the winter.

and as a 10+ year mechanic i get real tired and just wana play and not break and fix crap for my self. so dana 60 = more play time and cash in hand. :thumb:

if thinking about it do it 1 time and be done with it in the end. :whistle:
 
i searched craigslist and came across an add that said dana 70 axles. $600. then the number

i called. talked to the owner of the axles brother, quizzed him on what they came out of, if one was a front, if the front had disk brakes, ect.

it took almost 3 weeks to get the brother to call me. but then he delivered a dana 60f and a rebuilt 14b to me for $600.

thats how ya do it. ask qustions, and dont assume that the seller knows what he is talkin about.
 
sweetk30 said:
and dont forget some people assume rear axles in 8 lug are all dana rear not knowing corp 14 bolt :whistle:
Click to expand...


x10. they always say dana 60 or 70 rear. and its almost always a 14b.
there is also the 3/4 ton truck with 1 ton rear. its still a 14b
 
If your gonna run big tires and drive it with the throttle like I do, I can't see how not to justify them. :haha:


Seriously though, When you break and repair 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton fronts enough you will see the justification of the D60 front
 
owenst7 said:
The only parts that are really worth your effort are things like axles. If you do it right, you will just be messing with wear items some day....Good luck maintaining a body and keeping its integrity from deteriorating over time if you're actually wheeling the truck hard, if you don't want to dent it, don't wheel it. Limiting factors off road should be things like, lack of traction, flotation, wheelbase, center of gravity, etc....not things like "I'll scratch my paint".

Not that I'm saying everyone should tear up their truck...I'm just saying if you're really serious wheeling, there is already enough limiting factors without worrying about sliding in to a tree or hanging up on a rock. Ever watched competitions? They only care about breakage...sliding, slamming, scratching...it doesn't matter so long as you're still advancing, and it's still difficult without worrying about all the aesthetic stuff.

If you aren't wheeling something that's all function over form like that, then money in axles probably isn't the right path to take, or at least isn't a necessity. If it's just a light wheeling rig that's fun to drive on the road too, you probably don't want a tire bigger than 37" and there's probably bigger priorities with money than an axle you can't break.
Click to expand...


Thanks...I actually expect to destroy the body although keeping the frame in working condition and swapping in the right drive train is a concern...I took a step tonight to a) either break the drive train immediately or b) drive till it breaks "sit back and wait for the show:popcorn:"...I/we welded up the diffs (front and back) I know the consequences of doing so...Once they grenade the truck will be torn down to the frame and rebuilt...:haha:
 
1BEATK5 said:
thats how ya do it. ask qustions, and dont assume that the seller knows what he is talkin about.
Click to expand...

--------------------------------------------This is KEY. even if he sounds like he knows what hes talking about. chances are good hes talking out his ass.
 
Miller75 said:
Ok I've been looking around at prices for axles swaps and a 14b ff is justifiable since the average price is about $100 dollars but on the other extreme to get the recommended D60 its on average $1000+ ...
Click to expand...


It is all about supply, there are ALOT more 14 bolt rears then Dana 60 fronts.
 
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