So you kept the 92 burb water pump (which is reverse rotation) did you also keep the serp belt system AND the engine fan?
CK5
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how does the cooling system work?
- Thread starter warwgn
- Start date
yep got all the brackets, and everything when I got the donor, the fan and all is correct, unless it was wrong when I got it. The fan does pull air through the radiator like it should. now as for the pump I am assuming it is correct, it is the stock pump that was on it when I got it.
gotblazers
1/2 ton status
How many miles/age on the 454 you swapped in? Older motors run hotter due to build up of crud inside of em or somethin like that
. Not sure what the point of this thread is since you havent stated any problems with your cooling system besides you dont like where it sits. Just under 200 wont be blowin any head gaskets any time soon and IMO is a perfectly fine temp to be at.well my problem statement is it does not appear to be flowing like it should. or flowing at all, not sure if it's runnin hot yet, just got a "good gauge" and have only idleed it in the drive way to get it hot.
and arond 75K on it I think
and arond 75K on it I think
on the plus side the trans barely got over 110 when the engine was at 200!! of course it was in park and just idleing. I got that gauge too since the tranny went out after I got it running. Now got the th400 out of my blazer in it and am just sketchy about making sure it runs cool.
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
where is the temp sensor pulgged in at on there, in the head or in the intake?
gotblazers
1/2 ton status
If the coolant wasnt flowing youd have that gauge redlined quick theres incredible amounts of friction inside an engine. Take it for a test drive around the block or as far as your comftorable and see if its actually overheating. If its just sitting around 195-200 and never moves past that why mess with it? Unless your using this for extreme purposes such as long expeditions or racing/comp.
the head.
well it seems to work flow or not, it got up to about 205 the I filled it up, put thecap on and unkinked the heater hose and went back to look and it was down to 185?? Here are the pics of the quick install of the two temp gauges. Gonna put them in the dash when I get the rest of my gauges.
Had to put together an adapter to make an in-line fitting for the trans guage. used a 3/8 tee fitting and the adapter from autometer.
then solder on a ground wire since it wont have one otherwise.
the water temp sending unit installed
the tranny temp adapter installed and feeding into the auxillary cooler, this will give me the temp of the fluid coming out of the radiator.
and finally the guages in their temporary spot, seems ok despite the apparent flow issue
will se how it does tomorrow driving to work.
Had to put together an adapter to make an in-line fitting for the trans guage. used a 3/8 tee fitting and the adapter from autometer.
then solder on a ground wire since it wont have one otherwise.
the water temp sending unit installed
the tranny temp adapter installed and feeding into the auxillary cooler, this will give me the temp of the fluid coming out of the radiator.
and finally the guages in their temporary spot, seems ok despite the apparent flow issue
will se how it does tomorrow driving to work.
gotblazers
1/2 ton status
My 76 k5 does the same thing sometimes with a 400SBC q-jet. In the mornings if i dont let it warm up the thermostat will open up a little late and itll jump 1/8 or so past middle (factory gauges dont give #'s) then within a minute or so return back to middle and remain there for the rest of the day.
not that anyone ever wants to change their stuff because someone else said they should, but you really should be reading the trans temp before it hits the radiator. My sensor will be in the pan.
Big6ft6
1/2 ton status
What do you mean it "doesn't flow" are you just visually looking in your radiator cap? Or are you watching for the needle on your coolant gauge to go down when the stat opens?
If you're visually looking, as others have said, you won't visually see flow through the radiator cap opening, except for what is returning from the heater hose if it returns to the top of the radiator.
If you're watching your gauge for movement, in the warmer weather you won't see much. In cooler weather (like winter) the gauge movement gets a little more noticeable as the coolant sitting in the radiaotr is much colder and when the t-state opens and allows that cold charg of coolant into the engine you can see some major change on the gauge.
Also, as other have said when I start my truck the coolant gauge always goes past the t-stat design temp sometimes by as much as 10 degrees before I finally see the needle drop back to the t-stat design temp.
If you're visually looking, as others have said, you won't visually see flow through the radiator cap opening, except for what is returning from the heater hose if it returns to the top of the radiator.
If you're watching your gauge for movement, in the warmer weather you won't see much. In cooler weather (like winter) the gauge movement gets a little more noticeable as the coolant sitting in the radiaotr is much colder and when the t-state opens and allows that cold charg of coolant into the engine you can see some major change on the gauge.
Also, as other have said when I start my truck the coolant gauge always goes past the t-stat design temp sometimes by as much as 10 degrees before I finally see the needle drop back to the t-stat design temp.
you better hope it gets warmer than that.... optimum range for trans fluid is about 150 to 180...... it needs to get up to 150ish to burn off condensation...
DeviousK5
1/2 ton status
Reading the temp after the radiator (return line) would be the same as in the pan. The fluid leaves the trans going to the radiator and/or cooler , then back in to the pan. You trans readings would be very high if you were taking the reading from the pressure line.
So as it turns out it want's to run right about 195, so will need to swap out the thermostat to a 195* so it keeps the coolant in the radiator longer and cools better. With the 180 it is just staying open all the time basicly thats why the low flow I suspect.
Anyway, the water runs 195 and the trans just a touch over 150, and that is coming out the radiator still hadnt gone through the auxillary cooler! I didnt really take a long drive, just to work and a little around town, trucknever ran for more than 30 min in one shot yet. I bet the trans is gonna settle around 160 on the highway.
As for the sending unit I plan to put it in the pan after I get a deep sump aluminum pan. want all the cooling I can get since it will be used to tow my 28ft camper.
thanks for all the replies.
Anyway, the water runs 195 and the trans just a touch over 150, and that is coming out the radiator still hadnt gone through the auxillary cooler! I didnt really take a long drive, just to work and a little around town, trucknever ran for more than 30 min in one shot yet. I bet the trans is gonna settle around 160 on the highway.
As for the sending unit I plan to put it in the pan after I get a deep sump aluminum pan. want all the cooling I can get since it will be used to tow my 28ft camper.
thanks for all the replies.
Big6ft6
1/2 ton status
Now I"m really confused about what you are referring to as "low flow". If the thermostat was always open wouldn't that give the hightest flow through the radiator?
Reading the temp in the return line will bo cooler than reading it in the pan. The reading should be taken where the most fluid is located and not rushing past a sender.
yep it should, but the thing is my radiator is so big it just does not flood like I thought it shoud at idle speeds anyway. think your water hose on high then swap out the hose with a fire hose and it does not shoot out the end anymoe.
That is what I think is going on, it seems to run right at 195, so it must be working.
