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How does this Dana 60 look? (got it home... new pics p3)

garydan

garydan

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Ok, so I finally found a SRW Dana 60 with 4.56 gears. Here are a couple of pictures. I'm going to have my brother in-law go pick it up for me, since its near his house.

I noticed that the shock mounts are different. What do I need to do about that to bolt it into my K5?

Also.. the axle comes with the crossover high steer setup. Does anything look out of place to you Dana 60 experts out there?

What questions should I ask when I talk to the guy tonight?

dana60-1.jpg


dana60-2.jpg


Thank you for the help!
 
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The shock mounts are aftermarket tabs that have been welded on. You would more than likely need to run something like the ford towers to be able to run shocks on those tabs. You can see where the factory tab weld still is on the back side of the differential.

The spring plates are either home fab or aftermarket. You need to make sure that the cast holes in the passenger side pumpkin are in good shape. They are known to rip out of the housing.

I would tell your brother prior to him picking it up to pull the differential cover and check for broken gear teeth and crap in the oil.

The guy can tell you anything over the phone an Up close inspection is key if you are paying brand newish price on it. Have him look into the knuckle inside the axle tubes to see if the bottom of them is covered in oil and grease. If so the axle probably has bad seals and they will need to be replaced. (Not too hard once axle is apart) If he has a Micrometer then have him mic the Disc brakes, rotors for this thing are 70-85 dollars a piece. Check the iirc the discard thickness is like 1.34 you should be able to google it.

Whats he asking for it? I paid 600.00 for my complete housing hub to hub and spent close to 600.00 completely rebuilding it. Myself, The parts for this axle are expensive if you shop around you can find some good package deals on parts.

The most important question is "Why are you selling it". He may not know exactly what he has but I suspect seing that it is sitting under what appears to be a rig with aftermarket offroad parts that something is wrong with it or he got another one in better shape.
 
fallout232 said:
The shock mounts are aftermarket tabs that have been welded on. You would more than likely need to run something like the ford towers to be able to run shocks on those tabs. You can see where the factory tab weld still is on the back side of the differential.

The spring plates are either home fab or aftermarket. You need to make sure that the cast holes in the passenger side pumpkin are in good shape. They are known to rip out of the housing.

I would tell your brother prior to him picking it up to pull the differential cover and check for broken gear teeth and crap in the oil.

The guy can tell you anything over the phone an Up close inspection is key if you are paying brand newish price on it. Have him look into the knuckle inside the axle tubes to see if the bottom of them is covered in oil and grease. If so the axle probably has bad seals and they will need to be replaced. (Not too hard once axle is apart) If he has a Micrometer then have him mic the Disc brakes, rotors for this thing are 70-85 dollars a piece. Check the iirc the discard thickness is like 1.34 you should be able to google it.

Whats he asking for it? I paid 600.00 for my complete housing hub to hub and spent close to 600.00 completely rebuilding it. Myself, The parts for this axle are expensive if you shop around you can find some good package deals on parts.

The most important question is "Why are you selling it". He may not know exactly what he has but I suspect seing that it is sitting under what appears to be a rig with aftermarket offroad parts that something is wrong with it or he got another one in better shape.
Click to expand...


His response as to why he is selling it was that he is going to 2.5 tons. According to the seller, the bearings and seals were recently replaced. Here is what he said in the post:

have a dana 60 kingpin front axle out of a older chevy dually. i put new single wheel hubs and new baerings and seals on the axle not to long ago. it has crossover steering and high steer and comes with tie rod drag link and all the u bolts and plates.
Click to expand...

He is asking $800.
 
not a bad deal crossover alone is another $300 to $400, x2 on checking the gears
 
no i dont think sandman understands your question. YES for crossover you will need a 2wd ps box
 
73redblaze said:
no i dont think sandman understands your question. YES for crossover you will need a 2wd ps box
Click to expand...

Or:
If you already have a good box, you can just swap in a 2wd sector shaft. If you have a good junkyard nearby, they should be plentiful. Only takes about 10 minutes to swap out with a 3/8"s ratchet.

You will need a different pitman arm. There's quite a few that will work, but many have so much drop to them that they will give you interference with your ubolt nuts or tie rod (if going hi-steer). The best ones that I've seen come from late 70s Ford Vans. But again, if you have a good junkyard around, it's worth looking. I've heard of using FSJ, YJ, and even ZJ arms. I got two Van arms from Pick N Pull for $7.99. Here's the breakdown for an ideal pitman arm:

the keys in the splines should be at 12,3,6,9 o'clock (would it be a big deal to dremel out 4 splines so you could use the late Ford van arms that are keyed 45* off? I've hardly ever seen stripped splines unless the nut came loose)

as little drop as possible to clear the frame (around 1 3/4" drop), unless you're running stiff springs or a ton of lift

the length of the pitman should ideally be the same length as the steering arm to maintain lock-to-lock steering and prevent under/oversteer (but this usually doesn't work out the way you'd like it, my pitman is shorter and I lost lock-to-lock at the knuckles, but did gain some leverage)
 
That 60 sucks man you should send it my way. You dont want that thing runnin around I'll get rid of it for you.... LOL AWESOME MAN I want one real bad...
 
garydan said:
As far as the shock tabs go, what are my options there?
Click to expand...
They're set up just about how I want to do mine. Not really sure what it is that you're asking. If you are still using the stock shock mounts on the frame, then you will most likely need to change the frame or the axle to be able to bolt the shocks in. I would suggest cobbling together some new towers for the frame. You really only need some box tubing, a grinder, and some hardware to make new frame mounts.

As long as everything is there, and you have the money, I really can't see how you can go wrong on a Dana 60. They really open up a new world to your rig and are uncommon enough to be worth quite a bit of work.
 
owenst7 said:
They're set up just about how I want to do mine. Not really sure what it is that you're asking. If you are still using the stock shock mounts on the frame, then you will most likely need to change the frame or the axle to be able to bolt the shocks in. I would suggest cobbling together some new towers for the frame. You really only need some box tubing, a grinder, and some hardware to make new frame mounts.

As long as everything is there, and you have the money, I really can't see how you can go wrong on a Dana 60. They really open up a new world to your rig and are uncommon enough to be worth quite a bit of work.
Click to expand...

I was referring to the shock towers as you mentioned. Should I use the Ford Shock Towers? Is there an advantage to having those tabs on top of the axle instead of the stock location?
 
garydan said:
I was referring to the shock towers as you mentioned. Should I use the Ford Shock Towers? Is there an advantage to having those tabs on top of the axle instead of the stock location?
Click to expand...
There's less bind at the bushing under articulation and the mount is less prone to damage. I'm still not convinced it will do a whole lot to your rti score or dampening though. It's just more ideal location for flex and long travel shocks. Looks like the seller used some hoops like Toyota guys do, but ford towers or even box tubing (really all the ford towers are) like I explained will all work.

You're probably overthinking it. If you want to run longer Shocks, that setup is pretty much the way to go. You probably won't really notice any difference just based on the relocaton, however.

For about $5 worth of steel and 20 minutes of welding, you could add some shock tabs that will work with the stock setup. That would be the way the Jerry-rig it together with duct tape and a banjo.
 
owenst7 said:
There's less bind at the bushing under articulation and the mount is less prone to damage. I'm still not convinced it will do a whole lot to your rti score or dampening though. It's just more ideal location for flex and long travel shocks. Looks like the seller used some hoops like Toyota guys do, but ford towers or even box tubing (really all the ford towers are) like I explained will all work.

You're probably overthinking it. If you want to run longer Shocks, that setup is pretty much the way to go. You probably won't really notice any difference just based on the relocaton, however.

For about $5 worth of steel and 20 minutes of welding, you could add some shock tabs that will work with the stock setup. That would be the way the Jerry-rig it together with duct tape and a banjo.
Click to expand...

I currently have the quad shock setup up front anyway... so that's gotta go. I think I'll focus on changing the upper mount and leave the axle mount alone. Especially since I don't own a welder The axle did most recently come out of a toyota.
 
garydan said:
All I would likely need is a different steering box right?
Click to expand...

or put a 2wd sector shaft into your 4wd box... that is what i did...
also a note on that... a d60 front pinion nut fits on a 2wd sector shaft, is thicker and puts more threads to hold the pitman arm on.. i did that too...:wink1:
 
While I really have no idea what you are talking about :D (I need to research the different parts of the steering box...etc)... I value your input and will use it once I get up to snuff.
 
garydan said:
While I really have no idea what you are talking about :D (I need to research the different parts of the steering box...etc)... I value your input and will use it once I get up to snuff.
Click to expand...

here ya go...

4 bolts on top of....
13134912-057-Power-Steering-Gear-Box-GM-ABody.jpg



then the entire gear and shaft come out... swap it over..

i did that as I couldnt get my lines broke free....
 
Here are some picture I got. I now officially have a Dana 60. My brother in-law took the pics with his crappy cell camera, but I guess its better than nothing. I'll be able to go pick it up in a couple weeks.

small_Axle1.jpg

small_Axle2.jpg

small_Axle3.jpg

small_Axle4.jpg

small_Axle5.jpg
 
wow your right, that is a ****ty camera.... or he has parchedness disease. sick find though.... did he check the teeth on the gears?
 
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