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How easy/difficult is it to swap rear 10 bolt for 3/4 14 bolt?

L

la_blazer82

1/2 ton status
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I'm holding off on lifting the K5, as I have decided on going with a 3/4 ton 14 bolt open rear. Is this something that I can do on my own (regular driveway mechanic w/no welding skills), or should I get a shop to install? What's an average price for install (in SoCal)?

What TC springs should I get (currently 1/2 10 bolts F/R) if I want to go for 6" of lift? 4" f/shakle flip rear, 1" ORD zero rate and 1" ORD body; or 6" front/2" rear w/shakle flip? Do I have to drop down the T-case with the 4" lift.
 
pretty shure 14 is bolt in for the 3/4 ton axels, but you will need a conversion u-joint that will eaither need to be pressed in or beat in with a hammer /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
I just did mine. It is really easy to do everthing just bolts right up. the only thing you will have to mess with is you will need a I belive it is a 1350 u joint. you should have with your ten bolt a 1310 you can get whats called a converstion joint it matches a 1310 for your drive line and a 1350 for the axle. I just got a new drive line the converstion joint is easy enough to find but I didn't want to break it on the trail and have to order one. any way the only other thing is that you will need slightley bigger u bolts. But I just bent mine I had and they worked just fine. The biggest thing you are going to have to deal with at least I did was your ebreak set up it tooks real minor fab but it works. and you will love it after you do it. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
DO NOT pay some one to swap your axle. It is really that simple. Look here for a step by step instruction that Steve did. Make sure the 14ff you get comes from a truck and not a van other wise you will have problems. You might also run into a problem with hooking up the ebrakes. If you do let us know and there will be someone to help walk you through it. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
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DO NOT pay some one to swap your axle. It is really that simple. Look here for a step by step instruction that Steve did. Make sure the 14ff you get comes from a truck and not a van other wise you will have problems. You might also run into a problem with hooking up the ebrakes. If you do let us know and there will be someone to help walk you through it. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

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Looks like I may try to do it myself. The 14 bolt is coming off an 83 truck. BTW -- thanks for the replies

Also, should do I go 3/4 springs f/r even though I have a 1/2 ton up front? And should I go with a 4" TC front/ORD shakle flip, and ORD 1" zero rates; or just go 6" TC front/shakle flip + 2" springs rear? Need to fit 16x10" wheels; fender trimming will probably be needed either way
 
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Do I have to drop down the T-case with the 4" lift.

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Yes, you might have to. It will help alleviate vibrations. You could also by shims that go under your springs that point the pinion up towards the t-case. If you order through ORD they should help you get the right setup.
 
I notice that a lot of guys are running 4" TC/ORD shakle flips and 35-36" tires. Is this with fender /forums/images/graemlins/hack.gif alone; or is a 1" ORD zero rate or body lift needed?
 
Easy is the word of the day. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif It is about as simple as an axle swap can get. It is about as hard to swap in a 14BFF as it would to swap in another 10B. A 3/4 14 swaps directly in and if it is around the same year as the truck the E brake will even work.
 
Oh, I almost forgot. The conversion ujoint you will need is Neapco part # 2-1153. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
"The conversion ujoint you will need is Neapco part # 2-1153."

Where could I purchase the Neapco U-joint conversion part?
 
Quick question: What's better, a 14 bolt rear/open/3.73 (newer) gears, or 14 bolt rear/gov-lock/4.10 gears? Only a $50 difference between the two (the gov-lock is cheaper).

I'm actually considering 4.10s for my 35"s.

I just bought new 6 lug wheels for the 10 bolts -- should I return and get 8 lug wheels and use adapter on the front 10 bolt; or keep and adapt rear to 6 lug?

I know, I have plenty of issues! /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif
 
What kind of wheelin do you do? If you can afford to change gears and add a Detroit to the open rear then get the open rear. If not the Gov loc would be a good choice for a begginer wheeler. You will have to match your front gears to the rear 4.10's. I recommend you return the 6 lug wheels and get 8 lug 16" rims. Changing the front to 8 lugs is not that difficult but you do have to find a matching axle from a junkyard that will be will to let you strip the axle from the backing plate out. I don't know if they will let you since the axle would be useless to sell after that for them. I swapped whole axles front and rear. A dana 44 with 8 lug up front is easy to find and will bolt in easier than the rear due to same u joints and brake calipers.
 
George fill out your profile /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif People are not as likely to respond to someone who doesn't give much info on there rig or about themselves here. Also if you get a membership you have more forums to post up in and get more responses.
 
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George fill out your profile /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif People are not as likely to respond to someone who doesn't give much info on there rig or about themselves here. Also if you get a membership you have more forums to post up in and get more responses.

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Thanks -- just updated my profile /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
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"The conversion ujoint you will need is Neapco part # 2-1153."

Where could I purchase the Neapco U-joint conversion part?

[/ QUOTE ] Got mine from a machine shop.
 
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