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How far can I clock.... UPDATE!!!!

hidesertwheelin

hidesertwheelin

1/2 ton status
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Nov 13, 2004
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I bought a used clocking ring mmade by DPI. I was wondering on a 1990 Suburban, with NO bodylift, How far can I clock my NP241 without having body clearance problems. I think I can go to the second hole, but want to make sure. Thanks.
 
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I've asked the same question.. and I've been told it that theres more room under there than a blazer... so to clock it flat u would have the beat the hell out of the floor...unlike a blazer u would have to cut a hole in the floor. but I'm guessing the 2nd hole would clear.... take pics when u do yours if u go to the 2nd hole so I can see how much the case hangs below the frame rails... desertrat has his case flat on his burb and he beat the **** out of the floor....
 
How much difference would a 1" lift and new mounts make? The obvious answer is 1 1/2", but i am wondering just how much floor beating clearance you need.
 
Hmm I've been searching and trying to figure out exactly what I need to clock the 241 on my '89 blazer, I know a clocking ring, and I have a 3in. body lift so I'm not worried about clearance, the only thing I'm worried about are the DS angles... the front I can probably build a square one on my own but if I tilt my TC back up won't that mess with my rear as well? Can I just have it lengthened? Or should I just leave it tilted back for now? :confused:
 
I clocked mine up to the second hole on my sub(90, no BL) and had to "massage" the floorpan a bit. I beat an area about 4"X6" and test fit it several times to get it right. I think you can do the first hole without massaging. The floor pan actually creased at one point and I had to heat it up with a torch to get it to bend some more.
 
I have a 4" lift and clocking it up put an excessive amount of angle on the front shaft. I ground it out as much as possible, but it looks like it is near maxed out at ride hieght. I am looking at going with either a non CV 1350 or 1410 shaft to replace the CV.
 
I still have the stocker, but put the slip part of my original rear shaft on it to lengthen it about an inch. I think another inch would be better.
 
clock it as much as your driveshafts will allow. Sheetmetal is entirely massagable / expendable, don't even worry about that crap. The real question is, at full droop will your shafts joints bind up or not.

j
 
smokkey1 said:
take pics when u do yours if u go to the 2nd hole so I can see how much the case hangs below the frame rails...
Click to expand...

Well It fit clocked up to the 3rd (highes clock avail), but I cheated and lowered the t-case 1". I'll post pictures tomorrow. Thanks for the help everyone.
 
That will help with the body clearnce, but will make the angle on the front shaft steeper. let us know how it turns out.
 
cbbr said:
How does the drive shaft look?
Click to expand...

I havent installed it yet. I have to sleve it to make it longer. I'll let you know how it fit then, but will probley be in a few weeks, casue I'm going out of town this weekend.
 
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