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how hard is it to change ball joints?

jp0863

jp0863

1/2 ton status
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clovis, ca
on a 3/4 ton 1989 suburban 4x4, how hard are the ball joints to remove? both sides have a bit of play in them and need to be replaced, but i've never done this before. is it pretty easy to do? where's the best place to get them cheap? not sticking with this front end too long, but would like to replace them, so would rather not get the spendy one's if i dont have to.
 
There is alot you have to remove in order to get the knuckles off and then either take them to a machine shop to have them pressed out/in or buy a ball joint press and do them yourself. It will take more time to get the knuckles off than it will to press the ball joints. I charge 20.00 each to R&R the ball joints at my shop. Pricing will vary depending on your location and access to a machine shop.

Unless you're planning on a D60 i would buy nothing but Moog ball joints.
 
i dont mind taking the axle down to that point, it's fairly easy. i've just never done ball joints before. eventually a d-60 will be going in which is why i dont want to dump the expensive parts in this axle, just enough to get by without being unsafe.
 
jp0863 said:
i dont mind taking the axle down to that point, it's fairly easy. i've just never done ball joints before. eventually a d-60 will be going in which is why i dont want to dump the expensive parts in this axle, just enough to get by without being unsafe.
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if u plan on putting a 60 in,just get the napa balljoints, ive actually used mine for a while now with 38s, im still building up my 60 in the garage, but ive had mine for a while and they r still good. i drive mine everyday too.
 
I might suggest avoiding Moog balljoints now though. They used to be practically unbreakable, but have recently been outsourced to our favourite mass producing country and have suffered greatly in the quality department.

I'd suggest you purchase Napa's Premium balljoints, they seem to have held up fairly well for me with 35" boggers on a 10 bolt front differential.
 
The moogs are nice because the grease fitting is in a spot that doesn't require removing it before the axle shaft can go in. I'd get them no matter what.
 
bp71k5 said:
The moogs are nice because the grease fitting is in a spot that doesn't require removing it before the axle shaft can go in. I'd get them no matter what.
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I've always just replaced the straight down grease zerk with a one that has a 90 degree bend in it, costs 2.00 bucks for 10 at Princess Auto (our version of Harbour Freight)
 
I just did the driverside on my truck, and wow they are a HUGE pain in the ass to do with a lot swearing and cussing. The only thing that got me through it was PB Blaster, MAP gas torch, and a BFH. I used Autozone's Duralast brand and they have a lifetime warrenty on them so its good enough for me.
 
I tried that as well, but the axle shaft would hit it when it was rotating. I have to use the 90 to grease it and then put a plug in when done. It took like an hour to turn the little fitting a tiny amount with the little wrench. Maybe the earlier d44 has smaller clearance than the later stuff?
 
mike in mo said:
you can change them with a big hammer. i have many times.
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that works as long as you have a good vice to hold the knuckle down with.

you can rent the ball joint press at autozone for free.

pressing them out really aint that big of a deal if you have the tool. really easy if you have a impact to hook to it i always ran autozone ball joints so i have some experence in replacing them, had to do it yearly
 
u can buy an el cheapo ball joint press from harbor freight for $30 not the best quality in the world but it works
 
bp71k5 said:
I tried that as well, but the axle shaft would hit it when it was rotating. I have to use the 90 to grease it and then put a plug in when done. It took like an hour to turn the little fitting a tiny amount with the little wrench. Maybe the earlier d44 has smaller clearance than the later stuff?
Click to expand...

Hmm, I have a 10 bolt in my truck, and had no clearance problems leaving the grease zerk installed in the Napa Premiums. Maybe I fluked out and bought low profile zerks or something? :dunno:
 
abig84 said:
that works as long as you have a good vice to hold the knuckle down with.

you can rent the ball joint press at autozone for free.

pressing them out really aint that big of a deal if you have the tool. really easy if you have a impact to hook to it i always ran autozone ball joints so i have some experence in replacing them, had to do it yearly
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Buy a better quality ball joint and do the job once. :deal:

I don't care if a part comes with a lifetime warranty or not, i would rather not have to keep changing parts because they failed even if i don't have to pay for the part again because of some stupid lifetime warranty. My time is worth something (being the professional that i am it's worth more to me than people would care to pay sometimes).
 
Well i do have a press at my disposal, maybe i'll just have to dive in and see how this turns out... The dana 60 is about a year away or so, going to start buying all the little parts now til then, and do the whole build at one time.
 
I got Spicers from the local chevy dealer for $46.00 a side ( top and bottom ) they list for around 90 bucks. I just told the parts guy I will start buying all my parts here if he gives me a better price, cause I was restoring my burb and wanted to keep it all genuine GM.
Tarey
 
I bought Spicer service grade ball joints from Rock Auto for about $50 shipped for all 4.. can't beat it. I'll do the Spicer premiums when I put flat top d44 knuckles on.

Overall.. it's easy job if you have the tools and are willing to spend the time on it. A pickle fork and a bfh are your friends for separating the knuckle from the inner c. You can also smack the side of the knuckle to loosen them up, I kind of wish I would've known that for the drivers side. It's pretty non-technical, and easy if you follow the service manual.

I would HIGHLY suggest getting a GM manual.. the haynes and chiltons crap didn't have that much info in it and the service manual gives you all the details and has good pictures.

eta: don't do what chevy305 or myself have done.. which is smack the top of the ball joint. You won't get anywhere and will have to get the threads off.
 
jonathon said:
I bought Spicer service grade ball joints from Rock Auto for about $50 shipped for all 4.. can't beat it. I'll do the Spicer premiums when I put flat top d44 knuckles on.

Overall.. it's easy job if you have the tools and are willing to spend the time on it. A pickle fork and a bfh are your friends for separating the knuckle from the inner c. You can also smack the side of the knuckle to loosen them up, I kind of wish I would've known that for the drivers side. It's pretty non-technical, and easy if you follow the service manual.

I would HIGHLY suggest getting a GM manual.. the haynes and chiltons crap didn't have that much info in it and the service manual gives you all the details and has good pictures.

eta: don't do what chevy305 or myself have done.. which is smack the top of the ball joint. You won't get anywhere and will have to get the threads off.
Click to expand...

x2 learn from our mistakes... :crazy: :doah:
 
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