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How hard is it to remove/replace NP208?

Mastiff

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I'm thinking about getting a slip yoke eliminator for my 208 (let's not get into a 208 vs. 205 debate!) and would like to know what I'd be getting into. I'd be doing the work on my back. Here's kind of what I think:

1) Drain fluid
2) Remove front/rear driveshafts
3) Remove shifter linkage
4) Remove speedo
5) Remove 4WD indicator
6) Support trans somehow
7) Remove 4 (?) adapter bolts (these look hard to access, also trans side or t-case side?)
8) Buy a trans jack at harbor freight and put it under the t-case
9) Unbolt crossmember
10) Slide t-case back and bring it all down together

What did I miss or get wrong?
 
Ok it's not apples to apples. But in swapped the NV271 in my superduty by hand in my driveway last fall. The tranny mount is under the tranny. The tcase hangs of the back. If I can hand bomb a 271 I'm sure you can handle a 208. They're half the size.
 
The hardest part will be finding and SYE kit for a 208. Unless someone recently started making them, then nevermind. Last I heard you need a Dodge 208 donor to create a Chevy 208 with SYE.

Re and Re on the T-case is pretty easy though.
 
I haven't looked recently, but maybe the crossmember is really under the adapter? So if I disconnect the 208 from the adapter, it just slides out?

Tom Woods makes SYE kits for 208.
 
Yes, you can leave the crossmember in to support the tranny while you remove the case. But it's possible your exhaust is in the way so you'll have to pull the crossmember anyway. Just support the transmission with something if you pull it or the distributor will get all whacked on the firewall when the drivetrain leans back.

You can ubolt the adapter from either side, but it's actually the adapter that attaches to the tranny mount and crossmember, so unbolt the T-case side. IIRC it's possible to get a ratchet in there, but if not there's plenty of room to work with a box wrench. I don't remember it being too bad. Be ready for lots of fluid to come out of the adapter.
 
I've had my 241 in and out a couple times recently. If you have the stock crossmember setup you don't have to mess with it for just removing the transfer case. After unbolting it from the adapter you can slide it out by hand, just remember for the fluid to pour out of the adapter. I have also used a tranny jack for doing this and it works fine, but you have to rig up some spacers to hold the t-case because it basically sits at an angle.
 
I just pulled mine out of my 86 k30 last saturday.It wasn't bad at all. I removed front and rear drive shaft. Unhooked the shifter linkage.Unhooked the speedo cable.Unplugged the connector.I had to use a box wrench to undo the bolts.I unbolted mine from the adapter and left the crossmember there to support the trans.I didn't have to mess with my exhaust it wasn't in the way but not sure on yours.Oh I drained the transfer case first.I had a plastic milk crate laying around so I put it on top of a floor jack and jacked it up to the transfer case.I then removed the last bolt and had a helper lower the jack while I held on to the transfer case and crate.The transfer case doesn't fit the milk crate real well but it did the trick.Hope this helps.
 
I just pulled mine out of my 86 k30 last saturday.It wasn't bad at all. I removed front and rear drive shaft. Unhooked the shifter linkage.Unhooked the speedo cable.Unplugged the connector.I had to use a box wrench to undo the bolts.I unbolted mine from the adapter and left the crossmember there to support the trans.I didn't have to mess with my exhaust it wasn't in the way but not sure on yours.Oh I drained the transfer case first.I had a plastic milk crate laying around so I put it on top of a floor jack and jacked it up to the transfer case.I then removed the last bolt and had a helper lower the jack while I held on to the transfer case and crate.The transfer case doesn't fit the milk crate real well but it did the trick.Hope this helps.

Yeah, thanks. Doesn't sound so bad. What sounds bad is paying $1000 for the SYE and two driveshafts. :doah:
 
I think another thing that made it nice was compared to a 205 or 203 the weight savings was nice.
 
8) Buy a trans jack at harbor freight and put it under the t-case

My preference is the "ATV jack":

http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-lb-capacity-atvmotorcycle-lift-60536.html

(or http://www.harborfreight.com/1500-lb-capacity-atvmotorcycle-lift-69995.html , same thing)

You end up having to stack scrap lumber on it to fit irregular loads like t-cases, but the flat surface means you can use it for lifting dang near anything. I've used it to move axles, lift one side of the truck when I was doing the body lift, etc etc.

IMG_0947.JPG


PC010001.JPG
 
Another question. I have a TH400 adapted to the 208. I'm still a little unclear on where the seals are in the setup. I think the 400 is open in the back. Is there a seal inside the adapter preventing oil from coming out of the trans when the t-case is removed? Does oil flow freely from the t-case into the adapter, or is it sealed on the input side?
 
The 400 is open in the back.There is a seal on the input of the transfer case.Without the transfer case hooked up fluid will leak out the back of the transmission.The seal is attached to the transfer case,The adapter is just hollow.
 
The 400 is open in the back.There is a seal on the input of the transfer case.Without the transfer case hooked up fluid will leak out the back of the transmission.The seal is attached to the transfer case,The adapter is just hollow.

So if you pull the t-case to work on for days or weeks, how do you deal with that? Just fill the trans back up, or plug it somehow? Or is the pan level low enough that the fluid will stay put? Thanks.
 
You'll probably lose less than a quart of fluid,just have a pan handy to catch it--most of the time about a pint comes out ...unless you have the front of the truck jacked way up,no more fluid should seep out of the tranny,but it wont hurt to leave a rag or pan under it anyway just in case...or you can stuff a rag in the tail housing too..
 
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