CK5
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how heavy is a first gen blazer tub?
- Thread starter shady
- Start date
anyone junked one... anything?
I'd guess 1000 lbs?...more with the fiberglass cap on it,and add another 200 if the doors are on it,and at least 100+ for the tailgate..I'd remove everything that unbolts first!.....and I wouldn't trust the factory roll bar to lift it if I were you--the bar might hold up,but more than likely it'll just tear out of the floor where its bolted in,(where K5's often rot the worst!)--or maybe shear the bolts off,or the sling you lifted it with might slide on the roll bar pipe and make the thing tilt to one side suddenly,and maybe crash to the ground..
I know from scrapping a stripped bare cab off a 73 K10 ,that weighs over 400 lbs alone--add the weight of a 6 foot bed,thats at least another 400,and the roof has reinforcement bars in it too,that could add a few hundred lbs..
The safer way to lift the tub up off the frame without having a loader,would be to jack it up and slide a 4x6 timber under the rear wheel wells and across the front under the center of the rockers ,(use blocks so the rockers dont bear all the weight,especially if they are rusted!)--then use cribbing blocks one side at a time to support the posts a little at a time,till its clear of the frame..then it can be rolled out from under it..
If you have a hoist of some sort,I'd rig up a chain to all 4 corners and pick it up from the "center",but you'll have to adjust for one end weighing more than the other,to be able to lift it straight up,so the hoist wont actually be hooked "dead center"..its more risky lifting it that way,any weak metal could be tweaked and bent before it lifts up..
I know from scrapping a stripped bare cab off a 73 K10 ,that weighs over 400 lbs alone--add the weight of a 6 foot bed,thats at least another 400,and the roof has reinforcement bars in it too,that could add a few hundred lbs..
The safer way to lift the tub up off the frame without having a loader,would be to jack it up and slide a 4x6 timber under the rear wheel wells and across the front under the center of the rockers ,(use blocks so the rockers dont bear all the weight,especially if they are rusted!)--then use cribbing blocks one side at a time to support the posts a little at a time,till its clear of the frame..then it can be rolled out from under it..
If you have a hoist of some sort,I'd rig up a chain to all 4 corners and pick it up from the "center",but you'll have to adjust for one end weighing more than the other,to be able to lift it straight up,so the hoist wont actually be hooked "dead center"..its more risky lifting it that way,any weak metal could be tweaked and bent before it lifts up..
I guessed 2000-2500 lb's.
doors have to stay in because their temporarily part of the structure to keep the tub from buckling.
im putting 1/2" grade 8 bolts with lifting eye nuts on the ends up through 4 of the body mount holes. then ill set it down on the other mounts and when it's resting ill unhook it all and use the porta power to make room for the mounts where the lifting bolts were. I just wanted to hear a few other guess's to the weight to make sure I wasn't underestimating it
doors have to stay in because their temporarily part of the structure to keep the tub from buckling.
im putting 1/2" grade 8 bolts with lifting eye nuts on the ends up through 4 of the body mount holes. then ill set it down on the other mounts and when it's resting ill unhook it all and use the porta power to make room for the mounts where the lifting bolts were. I just wanted to hear a few other guess's to the weight to make sure I wasn't underestimating it
I dont know if it litteraly "weighs a ton" but that might not be an over-estimate of the weight with the doors on it ,and it would probably be wise to leave the tailgate on and closed to help keep it from buckling the rear quarters ,or maybe using some 2x4 studs bolted across the bed in the cap holes in "X" fashion if you leave the gate off,to add some rigidity--..
We did a few K5 tub swaps at the junkyard and even with a forkloader it was not a real easy job,not if you didn't want things getting damaged anyway--its easy to rip one apart with the loader to scrap one,but trying to dissasemble one and keep it 100% intact to be re-used with a minimum of work takes a lot of planning--and some luck too..
We took several cars off the frames to restore them there,and found out using the floor jacks and lots of cribbing blocks,or rims stacked up to support a cross beam under the body was the safest and least damaging way to do it,also the slowest and most labor intensive too,unfortunately..you could pull one off with the loader in a matter of 30 seconds,but one goof or a slip of a chain could spell disaster for the whole project..
We did a few K5 tub swaps at the junkyard and even with a forkloader it was not a real easy job,not if you didn't want things getting damaged anyway--its easy to rip one apart with the loader to scrap one,but trying to dissasemble one and keep it 100% intact to be re-used with a minimum of work takes a lot of planning--and some luck too..
We took several cars off the frames to restore them there,and found out using the floor jacks and lots of cribbing blocks,or rims stacked up to support a cross beam under the body was the safest and least damaging way to do it,also the slowest and most labor intensive too,unfortunately..you could pull one off with the loader in a matter of 30 seconds,but one goof or a slip of a chain could spell disaster for the whole project..
I would guess close to 2K Rick. after having my tub off, without doors and completely stripped, and with the cage in....hoisting it up with come alongs give me the impression of close to the 2500-3K....I've jacked engines/trans combos, and feel of the lever on the come a long tells me to guess in that range.
I figured the whole thing weighs 4200-4500 in stockish form so the body cant be more than the 2k ish area. I balanced it on 2 floor jacks with 4x4's standing on end to get it off. im NOT putting it back in that way
