How many gallons????

[adamforsythe]

How many gal of Primer/base/clear will I need to paint a 1986 Blazer.
Thanks
Adam

 

[ryoken]

if its just an exterior, gallon of each should do ya... if you where doing the cap, door jambs, etc, you'd be looking at 1 1/2 gallons usually....

some guys will just buy 2 gallons of color right off the bat, so you have plenty and a qrt or 2 for down the road... some colors cover better than others too..

 

[adamforsythe]

Hello,
Yea I was thinking 2 gallons each.
Thanks
Adam

if its just an exterior, gallon of each should do ya... if you where doing the cap, door jambs, etc, you'd be looking at 1 1/2 gallons usually....

some guys will just buy 2 gallons of color right off the bat, so you have plenty and a qrt or 2 for down the road... some colors cover better than others too..

 

[ryoken]

well, thats definitely a little excessive... if i had a show car completely disassembled, with everything needing paint, i'd have 2 of each...

but sure, if you can afford it, go for it. can't hurt to have leftovers, always have it for projects down the road...

what kinda primer and paint ya getting?

 

[Citizen Rider]

How thick and how many layers are good for body, doors, tailgate, cap. Not sure if ill be able to do doorjambs or not.

And what are your typical prices for flat black primer?

 

[ryoken]

How thick and how many layers are good for body, doors, tailgate, cap. Not sure if ill be able to do doorjambs or not.

And what are your typical prices for flat black primer?

well, factory finishs, from primers, thru base and clear are generally 5 to 8 mils total...

you should have at least 3 mils of epoxy primer when all sanded out ready for paint... that being said, there are many factors for varying primers and substrates when it comes to how many coats, viscosity, etc...

i generally don't like to see more than 12 to 15 mils max on a car.. in other words a factory paint, and then 1 redo... anything beyond that can be problematic and lead to checking, crazing, etc... cars with overly thick paint, 3 paint jobs, etc are destined for disaster....

personally on a complete strip resto, i like to end up with about 10 mils, zinc thru clearcoat... nice thick clear so you have plenty to buff.. not to mention it looks awesome...

as far as primer costs.... well, you can buy some crappy lacquer primer for $30 and up.. it will absorb water, and IT WILL RUST! thus i highly recommend this not be done...

epoxy primer setups get pricey.... you can pay anywhere from $80 to $125ish for the base primer.. then you need hardener which is usually in the $80 to $100 range... gallon of reducer, $25 to $30...

black can be difficult to find, not nearly as available as grays, tans, etc... but it is available....

another option for a real durable coating is to go ahead and prime it, paint it with single stage black with a pretty good dose of flattening agent.... thats how i intend to do my secondary color of flat black on my cap, visor and bumpers...

 

[adamforsythe]

Well i am doing everything inside out side and engine compart. How many coats of everything should I put on?????
I am using an Epoxy primer-sealer (Black) what kind of hardener should I use?
Then I will be spraying on a 4th Dimension B/C base coat then toped with a Urethane clearcoat.
Tell me about any reducers or harners I should get and why. I know I need a hardener forthe Epoxy primer just because it's epoxy.
Here are some links to the products that I will be using. Tell me what you think:
PRIMER
http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=15782&cat=115
BASE COAT
http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/f...5&quality=5B&app_cd=BC&sales_number=5B -64615
CLEAR COAT
http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=8095&cat=124
I don't know what kind of harderns or reducers to get so school me on that.

Thanks
Adam

well, thats definitely a little excessive... if i had a show car completely disassembled, with everything needing paint, i'd have 2 of each...

but sure, if you can afford it, go for it. can't hurt to have leftovers, always have it for projects down the road...

what kinda primer and paint ya getting?

 

[ryoken]

wow, ok.....

haven't used Sherwin Williams in ages, but they used to make a decent product... all that stuff is pretty pricey tho. any particular reason thats what your using? the local guy sells it?

not to bag on SW, but what i'm getting at is, i think you could find a product with as good or higher quality for less money... Glasurit, PPG, etc.. but the SW would be a decent choice...

first off, any product using a hardener, primer or clear, will use the corrosponding hardener for that product from that manufacturer... if you where buyng any of this from a autobody supply store, you'd tell em you want the hardener for each product. the counter guys can walk ya thru it, its their job...

that being said, if your ordering online, that primer, requires hardener #V6V979 (you can check the data sheets for info like this)...

couple things tho... not sure if you saw that post i made in your other thread concerning different types of primers.... what you have listed is a primer sealer... it is really not intended for an initial application, over bodywork, sanded paint, etc.. it will have very poor filling capabilities too as opposed to a primer/surfacer or hi-build primer...

its application is really supposed to be a couple quick coats over your prepped primer surfacer right before you paint... being that your going with a dark blue met, i would still consider using it, will make coverage of the blue much easier... maybe get yourself a gallon of primer surfacer and a gallon of that black sealer... maybe something like this, http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=3706&cat=115

contact me about prep work for those processes.. in actuality, you would really want more primer surfacer than the sealer... like i said, your primer surfacer should be sanded for paint then ya just throw a couple quick coats of the black on prior to paint...

what i would really recommend is if your going with the Ultra series, use this multifunctional black they have for that. it is a primer surfacer but can also be converted to a primer sealer.... http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=32717&cat=105

i see you listed a Dimension base and Ultra series clear.. it is usually not recommended to mix series, but you more than likely would be fine... the Dimension series is an enamel line.. i would consider checking out if your color is available in the Ultra series...

for the clear, i'd go with this for its high solids http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=10174&cat=110

just go farther down the list for the hardeners. for a full paint job, you usually want a med or slow reducer, depending on temps... fast is usually for partials, etc....

WOW, i just noticed how expensive all their stuff really is!! the clears run $175 to $225!!

i would definitely consider another product line or check to see what the nearest autobody supply place peddles....

 

[adamforsythe]

Wow will ok.
What are some good places to buy automotive paints, PPG, Glasurit any others? Ok lets say I wanted you to paint the truck and I told you what color I wanted ( Superior Blue Met ) plus keep the price down. What kind of products would you get to paint my truck? (The paint does not need to come from SW). When it comes to selecting the right kind of paint as you can see I am kinda new. hahahaha
I want to knock the price of the paint down. But I still want a good paint. I have in tell the mid or end of July before I start spraying paint.
Thanks
Adam

wow, ok.....

haven't used Sherwin Williams in ages, but they used to make a decent product... all that stuff is pretty pricey tho. any particular reason thats what your using? the local guy sells it?

not to bag on SW, but what i'm getting at is, i think you could find a product with as good or higher quality for less money... Glasurit, PPG, etc.. but the SW would be a decent choice...

first off, any product using a hardener, primer or clear, will use the corrosponding hardener for that product from that manufacturer... if you where buyng any of this from a autobody supply store, you'd tell em you want the hardener for each product. the counter guys can walk ya thru it, its their job...

that being said, if your ordering online, that primer, requires hardener #V6V979 (you can check the data sheets for info like this)...

couple things tho... not sure if you saw that post i made in your other thread concerning different types of primers.... what you have listed is a primer sealer... it is really not intended for an initial application, over bodywork, sanded paint, etc.. it will have very poor filling capabilities too as opposed to a primer/surfacer or hi-build primer...

its application is really supposed to be a couple quick coats over your prepped primer surfacer right before you paint... being that your going with a dark blue met, i would still consider using it, will make coverage of the blue much easier... maybe get yourself a gallon of primer surfacer and a gallon of that black sealer... maybe something like this, http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=3706&cat=115

contact me about prep work for those processes.. in actuality, you would really want more primer surfacer than the sealer... like i said, your primer surfacer should be sanded for paint then ya just throw a couple quick coats of the black on prior to paint...

what i would really recommend is if your going with the Ultra series, use this multifunctional black they have for that. it is a primer surfacer but can also be converted to a primer sealer.... http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=32717&cat=105

i see you listed a Dimension base and Ultra series clear.. it is usually not recommended to mix series, but you more than likely would be fine... the Dimension series is an enamel line.. i would consider checking out if your color is available in the Ultra series...

for the clear, i'd go with this for its high solids http://www.sherwin-automotive.com/products/show_product.cfm?product=10174&cat=110

just go farther down the list for the hardeners. for a full paint job, you usually want a med or slow reducer, depending on temps... fast is usually for partials, etc....

WOW, i just noticed how expensive all their stuff really is!! the clears run $175 to $225!!

i would definitely consider another product line or check to see what the nearest autobody supply place peddles....

 

[ryoken]

yeah, if your not versed in it, it can beat you up on multiple fronts.

i gotta stop in my body supply place in the morn for some grinding disc's and some copper chromabase for my truck. he carries multiple lines, i'll see what the prices are...

off the top of my head, a gallon of my copper basecoat runs about 125... i've been putting Imron clear over that and i think the Imron clear is about the same price.. hardener is about $80.. so thats 350ish with reducer per gallon setup.... most brands will be in that ballpark..

then ya figure a gal of primer surfacer is 200/250 for a gallon setup with reducer.. so your looking at 600 to 650.. throw another gal of base/clear in, and your looking at a grand for most brands....

but i'll check some prices on other stuff and post up tommorrow...

one thing you should definitely do is, look in your phone book under "autobody supplies" and see who the local guys are... maybe just give em a jingle to find what lines they carry...

i would buy local if you can, hazmat shipping is brutal on that stuff.... our gelcoat from Florida gets insane shipping fees...

 

[adamforsythe]

Ok sounds good I will check around here. I was planning on buying from a local shop any ways. Just in case I run out of something I can run there and get what ever I need.
Thanks
Adam

yeah, if your not versed in it, it can beat you up on multiple fronts.

i gotta stop in my body supply place in the morn for some grinding disc's and some copper chromabase for my truck. he carries multiple lines, i'll see what the prices are...

off the top of my head, a gallon of my copper basecoat runs about 125... i've been putting Imron clear over that and i think the Imron clear is about the same price.. hardener is about $80.. so thats 350ish with reducer per gallon setup.... most brands will be in that ballpark..

then ya figure a gal of primer surfacer is 200/250 for a gallon setup with reducer.. so your looking at 600 to 650.. throw another gal of base/clear in, and your looking at a grand for most brands....

but i'll check some prices on other stuff and post up tommorrow...

one thing you should definitely do is, look in your phone book under "autobody supplies" and see who the local guys are... maybe just give em a jingle to find what lines they carry...

i would buy local if you can, hazmat shipping is brutal on that stuff.... our gelcoat from Florida gets insane shipping fees...