How many of you put some cash into 10b bolts

[84CUCV]

Do you regret it at all? I am about to. Not sure i want to tho. Thinking i should hold out till 1 tons come down the road. as aways thx

 

[4xcrazy]

I just put a Loc-Rite in mine, never ran tires bigger than 33's though, haven't had any problems as of yet, no "serious" hard core type rock crawling though,,,although i have done some, i guess you could call it moderate rock crawlilng or wheelin,,,i dunno, MARV !!! what would YOU consider what i would do out on those trails ...

Now running a 35 equilv. size tire, but haven't wheeled it yet.

 

[Citizen Rider]

I was about to swap a 14 bolt into the rear and gear the front 10b. But then after doing some research, i found it would only be a few hundred more to do a D60. Luckily i found a good deal. So im now saving while my trucks down with a blown tranny. :doh:

 

[sandawgk5]

I only put wheel studs in the rear cause the PO never put anti seize on them so I broke a couple. Then I went 1 ton

Ira

 

[4xcrazy]

I was about to swap a 14 bolt into the rear and gear the front 10b. But then after doing some research, i found it would only be a few hundred more to do a D60. Luckily i found a good deal. So im now saving while my trucks down with a blown tranny. :doh:

if you don't have a full time 4wd, then in all honestly, you really don't HAVE to get it "right on" as far as gearing mesh is concerned... You're not driving on those gears all the time, like you do with the rear end.

I threw a set of gears in a front diff, withough "prpoer setup" and they worked just fine,,,,again, NOT always in use.

Find ya a good set of used gears if possible, and throw them in the front.

 

[roadnotca]

We're planning a black diamond trail (Miller Jeep) on the 24th. I've done it once before, no problems. 1985 K10 Burb, "10" for 10bs, 31s, LockRite in fr, NoSlip in rr, SBC350 (weak), 700R4, NP208, 3.42s. I have stronger than stock rear axle shafts (Superior) cause I had to rebuild the whole axle while doing the NoSlip. I caught it jusy in time, lots of metal in the case, gears spawled, but the carrier brgs and R&P were fine, been driving them since.
Changes since; Spicer 760 or 790 whatever in front because old ones were orig. 34.5s now so I'm regearing to 3.90, in time for the Miller Jeep trail trip. Also running TH350 now so first isn't quite as low. Also with the TH350, I have controlled shift; makes a big difference. I want it in first, it stays in first, etc. Also new SBC350, not your Fathers mouse, but mild.
185Km on a DD.
So, I think I'm waving the red flag at the bull. Lets see if I can get away with it.
I'll reply on the 25th.

 

[MTMike]

The only money I spent on my 10 bolt was $7 on a deep 15/16" impact socket to remove the U-bolts and replace it with a D60

Best $ I ever spent

 

[johnathan]

I bought some gears for the front 10 bolt to match the 14ff out back.I plan on throwin some new u-joints in there,ball joints as well.Hope it will hold up.Just plan on usin my head more than that right foot.

 

[jekbrown]

Do you regret it at all?

yes I did, and yes I do. Give me 1-tons or give me death. 5.13s and 35 splines or bust.

j

 

[resurrected_jimmy]

I wouldn't put much money in 10 bolts, maybe throw some $ at a front end but never at a rear end. At some pointI would like to put one together with good parts to see how it holds up but I will wait until a good deal comes along or I can collect up various used parts I want then I'm gonna flog the thing to see what happens.

 

[84CUCV]

I see thanks for the replys

 

[goldwing2000]

I wouldn't put much money in 10 bolts, maybe throw some $ at a front end but never at a rear end.

I share this opinion. 14bff out back and 3/4-ton 10b up front works just fine for most applications (up to 35" on 4.10s or so). If you're going to go crazy with tire size and/or gear ratios, then upgrade to a D60.

 

[bajaviking]

I had lots of fun with my 10 bolts. The only money I spend was to put a lockright in the rear diff., ducttaped a spare axleshaft to my rollcage and wheeled it like that for 2 years with 33's. Then I wore out the gears in the rear diff. and put a 14 bolt in the rear and moved my lockright to the front diff. so that worked out good.

 

[84CUCV]

I will think about it and see where to go. thx

 

[MarcS]

It all depends on how your going to wheel it.
I stayed with 10b because.
I'm not going bigger then 35" tires & mostly wheel mud, and in NJ sand. (1 Ton = Anchors)

Worst case, I'd go with a 3/4 or 1 ton rear and keep the front 10b.

If your going bigger tires and or going to rock crawl go 1 ton.

 

[Big89Burban]

It all depends on how your going to wheel it.

I second that. Been moderately wheeling a 10b for a while now on 44's with 5.38 gears. Its open in the front and I usually take it easy on the gas. I couldnt care less what anyone says. I know from my own experience. There are the people that will tell you all this b.s. about how its gonna break if you even lock in the hubs.

Run what u brung. If you break it then its time to try something else. Until then there is no reason to spend $1500+ on a front end.

 

[84CUCV]

thx for the replys

 

[roadnotca]

PS for mine; no blocks, (almost) no wind-up.

 

[Chevy305]

I've got 10bolt front/rear and I have had no problems yet...

I put 4.10s in both of them and a lock right in the rear. I run on 35"s and I should have gone to 14bolt rear. But oh well I did the gear change when I first got the truck and was even more noob than I am now. I've spent close to $1200 combined on both axels . Most of the wheelin I do is mud and sand anyway, no real rocks.

 

[Drey]

in my youth(ok 4 years ago) I dropped some cash, for new drums, shoes, pads, rotors, and a new balljoint or something like that for the front one. It was all done at a shop, I was 17 and had the cash.