How many ways to 'skin a cat'

[4thgenceli]

I'm aware everyone has their own preferred methodology to removing engines and/or transmissions.

The smaller S10/15 Blazers I pulled motors from it was easier to remove the hood and lift the motor straight out. My Toyota was easier to put the car on the engine/transmission.

Spent a large part of yesterday getting the K5 ready to drop the motor. Intake, TBI, alternator and other accessories removed. Looking at how the fuel lines & hood sits it looks to be tight to pull the motor via the bay without some serious work.

I'm thinking just pull the radiator & core support from the front, pop the motor unit loose and pull it straight out the front of the bay.

I have the cherry picker, transmission jacks, load levelers, support bars, yadda yadda yadda. It's been a while since I've been in one of these large bays.

TL;DR -
Pull front clip or radiator core support for engine removal?

 

[skunked]

Pull the whole front clip in one piece. Only a few bolts hold the front fenders to the cab.

 

[Justin V]

If you have the inclination to pull the whole clip, do it. But it can be done fairly easily with the fenders and core support still on the truck.

 

[4thgenceli]

Yeah nosing in there and peeking around I think it's 6 one hand, half dozen the other. It doesn't seem to hard which ever way we go. Just need to keep track of any and all shims that fall out.

 

[nvrenuf]

Between my Blazer and old pick up, I've swapped motors a few times and never pulled the front clip. I take the hood off and radiator out hut that's it. Both trucks were lift 8"+ and I did have good motor hoists (not the little folding type).

 

[imiceman44]

I'm aware everyone has their own preferred methodology to removing engines and/or transmissions.

The smaller S10/15 Blazers I pulled motors from it was easier to remove the hood and lift the motor straight out. My Toyota was easier to put the car on the engine/transmission.

Spent a large part of yesterday getting the K5 ready to drop the motor. Intake, TBI, alternator and other accessories removed. Looking at how the fuel lines & hood sits it looks to be tight to pull the motor via the bay without some serious work.

I'm thinking just pull the radiator & core support from the front, pop the motor unit loose and pull it straight out the front of the bay.

I have the cherry picker, transmission jacks, load levelers, support bars, yadda yadda yadda. It's been a while since I've been in one of these large bays.

TL;DR -
Pull front clip or radiator core support for engine removal?

It's easier with the core support out of the way but I have done it a few times with just the hood off.

I'm aware everyone has their own preferred methodology to removing engines and/or transmissions.

The smaller S10/15 Blazers I pulled motors from it was easier to remove the hood and lift the motor straight out. My Toyota was easier to put the car on the engine/transmission.

Spent a large part of yesterday getting the K5 ready to drop the motor. Intake, TBI, alternator and other accessories removed. Looking at how the fuel lines & hood sits it looks to be tight to pull the motor via the bay without some serious work.

I'm thinking just pull the radiator & core support from the front, pop the motor unit loose and pull it straight out the front of the bay.

I have the cherry picker, transmission jacks, load levelers, support bars, yadda yadda yadda. It's been a while since I've been in one of these large bays.

TL;DR -
Pull front clip or radiator core support for engine removal?

It's much easier with the core support out of the way but I have done it a few times with just the hood off.

 

[Vombrown]

I guess it depends on how far you are going and what you are doing. If you're just swapping the engine, yeah pull the hood and take it out. If you have work to do to the motor mounts/cross member or steering it's so much easier to just yank the front clip off.

 

[4thgenceli]

I guess it depends on how far you are going and what you are doing. If you're just swapping the engine, yeah pull the hood and take it out. If you have work to do to the motor mounts/cross member or steering it's so much easier to just yank the front clip off.

Steering box looks like it's seen better days and could use some attention. Not planning to change anything out transmission wise anymore but will be tearing down the 465 to reseal it as well (small leak on it). Seeing ashow I need to get so far into the heart of the beast, I'm thinking the front coming off will give unrestricted access to everything we need to pay attention to.

 

[4thgenceli]

Easy way I had -- after dropping everything off the front of the engine and pulling the hood/radiator I pulled the 4 bolts from the bellhousing to transmission, removed the exhaust manifolds and slide the engine forward a few inches. Came out no problem - but new problem arose

My darn bellhousing was cracked. Need to source a new bellhousing now and find a machine shop. Guy I used last time retired 5 years ago. DOH.

 

[imiceman44]

Easy way I had -- after dropping everything off the front of the engine and pulling the hood/radiator I pulled the 4 bolts from the bellhousing to transmission, removed the exhaust manifolds and slide the engine forward a few inches. Came out no problem - but new problem arose

My darn bellhousing was cracked. Need to source a new bellhousing now and find a machine shop. Guy I used last time retired 5 years ago. DOH.

Do you want the cast bellhousing or the aluminum.
I have both

 

[4thgenceli]

Stock cast is fine - the slave cylinder mount had a crack through it. Soon as the slave came off it fell to shambles. Be that explains the weak clutch... I'd be interested -- shoot me a few pictures if you don't mind. As long as it's the same 305/465 mount I'm good.

 

[imiceman44]

Stock cast is fine - the slave cylinder mount had a crack through it. Soon as the slave came off it fell to shambles. Be that explains the weak clutch... I'd be interested -- shoot me a few pictures if you don't mind. As long as it's the same 305/465 mount I'm good.

I guess I can't help you.
You have the hydraulic clutch.
Mine is the old mechanical clutch.

 

[HankScorpio]

Stock cast is fine - the slave cylinder mount had a crack through it. Soon as the slave came off it fell to shambles. Be that explains the weak clutch... I'd be interested -- shoot me a few pictures if you don't mind. As long as it's the same 305/465 mount I'm good.

I guess I can't help you.
You have the hydraulic clutch.
Mine is the old mechanical clutch.

That can be a tough one to find. There are 2 on ebay now. Price isn't great but it is an uncommon part. I bought one last year on ebay, not many choices out there.
Good Luck!

 

[dyeager535]

Check out some of the aftermarket suppliers (I want to say Advanced Adapters?) to see what they charge for a hydraulic slave mount. Since the bellhousings are so uncommon, there is at least one company making brackets for the earlier bellhousings. Wonder if you could get away with the adapter on yours if the mount is that broken.

 

[imiceman44]

Check out some of the aftermarket suppliers (I want to say Advanced Adapters?) to see what they charge for a hydraulic slave mount. Since the bellhousings are so uncommon, there is at least one company making brackets for the earlier bellhousings. Wonder if you could get away with the adapter on yours if the mount is that broken.

That's an option, and in that case I have a bellhousing for that

 

[HankScorpio]

I think Novak has the slave mount also. I think you would have to cut away the mounting area on your bellhousing to use it. Probably not your best option. I looked into it for a conversion for an older truck and there were issues. Novak had there own part # for the slave cylinder. I could never figure out if a stock GM slave would work with the bracket. I think they use a different slave and want to sell it to you in a kit with the bracket. I didn't want to be stuck with oddball parts. I would try and find a GM bellhousing, everything will fit and work as it should.

 

[Capt Ron]

I am pretty sure I have an alum bellhousing for hyd clutch / 465 in my parts stash. I will look tomorrow. $100.00 plus shipping

 

[4thgenceli]

Thanks guys -- I think it's fixable now that I look closer at it. I've been looking at the retro fit brackets out there and I can fab something up pretty easily myself.