CK5
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How much can 10 bolts handle on a K5?
- Thread starter Holeshot
- Start date
Oh and yeah I am new here.
pauly383
Daddy383
Lockright by Powertrax ( Richmond Gear ) isn't too expensive . I run with 33's and 3.73 gears . I trust it . I constantly take sweeping lefts from stops on purpose too quick , just to hear the tires bark 
And although its not as extreme as other AZ guys , I do put this thing in rocks with the full weight of the truck and tools on it
And although its not as extreme as other AZ guys , I do put this thing in rocks with the full weight of the truck and tools on it
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I have an 85 K10 that has a 10bolt front and rear with the rear locker with the lockright and 4.10 gears with a slightly tuned 305 and 35in tires.
They have held up great. You don't need any bigger axels for 33s. I like the lockright but make sure you get the hardened cross shaft with it. I like it because going around corners you can gas it, the locker will engage and you can chirp the wheels.
I think a 4.56 with 33s might be a bit low for the street, but if its strickly off road then go for it!
Crawl Ratio
They have held up great. You don't need any bigger axels for 33s. I like the lockright but make sure you get the hardened cross shaft with it. I like it because going around corners you can gas it, the locker will engage and you can chirp the wheels.
I think a 4.56 with 33s might be a bit low for the street, but if its strickly off road then go for it!
Crawl Ratio 
theperfectgarage
1/2 ton status
These questions are difficult to answer because so much depends on your driving style and skills. Having said that, I'll say I'm with Pauly ( and I've wheeled with him ) You will prob. be o.k. on the 33's.
loafer
1/2 ton status
I run Powertrax No-slips in both front and rear axles and have had great luck with them. The front is a 10 bolt and has held up fine with only 33's. I used to run a rear 10-bolt with the same locker, but after I snapped an axle shaft I decided to install a 14 bolt sf, which I also run a Powertrax no-slip in.
The No-Slip is just a newer and more expensive version of the origional Lockright and opperates a little smoother and quieter than the origional. It also comes with a new cross pin that is stronger than the factory one.
The No-Slip is just a newer and more expensive version of the origional Lockright and opperates a little smoother and quieter than the origional. It also comes with a new cross pin that is stronger than the factory one.
pauly383
Daddy383
Yup , yours has synchros , much quiter and transparent to the driver ( except the feel ) . It does cost 100-150 more depending on axle though .
This is good info. Thanks guys. I suppose 35s would be pushing it huh? Maybe a 14 bolt rr would be a good idea. I mean those are bulletproof pretty much with 35s and they arent too expensive so maybe thats the best way to go. Thanks guys!
DANA 60 or nothing else.. or no run ur 10bolt front and if u have access to a 14bolt u can throw that in there, and change ur front over to 8lug as well, it will hold up just fine.
