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How much compression travel for front shaft? **Problem solved...see pics**

josh86k10

josh86k10

1/2 ton status
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Feb 13, 2005
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Location
Knoxville, TN
I know it's hard to tell me an accurate number without cycling the suspension to see what it actually needs to be, but that may be really difficult in my driveway with limited tools. Basically I'm just looking for a sampling of what everyone else is running (those that have stock type shafts....not you 52" guys with long travel shafts). For what it's worth, I've got 6" Rough Country springs (pretty stiff) and longer shackles (6.75" eye to eye) with the mount moved forward for a better angle (still stock length springs however). Right now I've got just a hair over 1.5" of compression room on the shaft. Do ya'll think that is enough? I may be able to get a little more by raising my T-case back up 1/2", but that will likely be negligible. What are ya'll running?
 
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flexing it out will be the best way. do it slow and have someone make sure you don't bottom it out. measure the difference between droop and compression.
 
You are correct, to do it right you need to flex it. However, I used strings attached to the pivot points of the transfer case u-joint and the front spring eye to estimate the travel. Just make a mark on each sting where they meet at ride height, and pull them tight and move them vertical the distance you have up travel in your suspension. Based on shock travel or bumstops distance, etc. And then add an inch fudge factor for flex and bushing movement, etc.

From my experience, unless you are an on road only vehicle, 1.5" will NOT be enough. But every situation is different.
 
Here ya go.... 4" compression, 17" extension at ride height. I figured if I was going to spend money, I might as well get some parts that will still work if/when I decide to go 52's.

IMG_0561.JPG

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IMG_0560.JPG
 
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Sorry it took me so long to reply, I'd say I've been busy, but I really don't have much of an excuse.
Did you do it yourself or have someone do it for you?
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Nah, I paid someone to do it. Sonny's Driveline Shop in Knoxville, TN. Seems like a pretty decent shop, though the owner comes across as a bit of an ass.
Part numbers? Link to where you got them?
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Here are the part numbers:
53-2415 SLEEVE-1.625X10 SPL (Neapco)
72-2231 S/SHAFT-SPL. LENGTH= 25.5" (Neapco)
2-3-8021kx 1310 SLIP YOKE (machined and welded to splined shaft) (Spicer)
 
:eek1: thats a ridiculous amount of slip. :bow: I thought I had a lot of slip with my square tube. I built it to swap to 52's like you did.
 
Josh, we miss you over on TOR. Make a thread over there and post yer pics. I wanna see your shaft.:haha:
 
With a new joint, it was $344 for everything. I didn't want to spend that much, but I got it back the same day, and finally went wheelin' this past weekend. I guess it was worth it just to get the truck out of the driveway and onto a trail.
 
$344 just to have the stock shaft re-tubed/lengthened with more slip and one new U-joint??? Isn't that a LOT?
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Everything except the CV is new (I recently rebuilt it), but yeah, I still kind of agree. However, like I said, it is what ultimately got my truck out of the driveway and onto a trail. And that is priceless. Plus, with all that extra slip, I won't be paying to have it lengthened/ shortened every time I change something with my suspension.
 
What size yolks are those on the CV? Are they 1310 as well? I have the stock front shaft from an 85 k30 and need mine lengthened. I want a long slip shaft as well so I can upgrade to 52's later and not have to worry about a new shaft when I move the front axle around in different configurations. Im a little worried 1310's wont be strong enough though, even if I upgrade the axle end to a 1350
 
To the best of my knowledge it is a Saginaw 44 CV (Stock K10). So the joints should be S44's. To put that in perspective, I believe the S44 is approximately the same size as a 1330.
 
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