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How the heck is the right way to measure camber?!

scouthead

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As work allows i have been searching this subject for a while now...

No clear answers popping up. I have a 10 bolt front in my blazer- there is positive camber. If you stand back and look squarely at the front tires- it is visible to the naked eye... Causes outside edges of tire to chop, and wear faster than the rest of the tire.
It was like that before i replaced the ball joints 10-20 thousand miles ago... Its still like that.

-whats the correct way to measure the camber?
-top edge of tire to top edge of tire? -then compare bottom of tire to bottom edge of tire?
-somehow get a square, or gauge, mounted to axle and compare each wheel/tire/ spindle to that? Special service tool?

There are still shims avail for my spindles- if i need to order them- i want to make sure im measuring the correct way before ordering.
Dont understand, or like the idea of adjustable/ eccentric ball joint
Sleeves at all- not going that route.

The front end has been causing truck to wander more than i would like- and i just bought new tires. I will be going thru and replacing all spring bushings, tie rod ends, checking for bent spindles (doubt it since the caster is positive), ball joints, wheel bearings... Blah blah, adjust steering box again... Blah blah... Want to do it all at the same time, and would really like to fix the camber prob for good while im at it.
 
Ok- yeah dana 44s are almost the same as 10 bolts...
Video helpful- i can and prob will use an angle finder.

Not going to use eccentric bushing on ball joint though- there wouldnt be any way to set preload and still keep the bushing where it is supposed to be?

Curious now though- if new ball joints are out of spec- like wrong taper, or if the adjusting sleeve is to tall or somthkng- could that cause the upper or lower half of the inner C to flex when you torque the upper ball joint into place? Just wondering what would happen if i had assembled the front end with, and without, having the ball jojnts under load... Cause the camber to change?
 
Make sure the housing isn't bent either.
 
The only problem I see with that video explanation is the bearing hubs are 1/2 ton and those outer diameters are generally straight like a tubing. If you look at a 3/4 ton internal bearing hub, and a D60 GM hub, they're tapered and therefore you can't just use an angle finder to rest on the hub. On an external bearing hub 3/4 ton it will work but not an internal hub 44/10 bolt or D60. Best thing to do is rest the angle finder flat on the end of the hub at the face side of the lockout hub. Then adjust for 90 degrees.
 
I'm a little confused with the guys explanation of eccentric in this video. Think he needs to be using the concentric, too, as concentric would be shortening while eccentric is lengthening. Am I confused or is this guy spot on?
 
The only problem I see with that video explanation is the bearing hubs are 1/2 ton and those outer diameters are generally straight like a tubing. If you look at a 3/4 ton internal bearing hub, and a D60 GM hub, they're tapered and therefore you can't just use an angle finder to rest on the hub. On an external bearing hub 3/4 ton it will work but not an internal hub 44/10 bolt or D60. Best thing to do is rest the angle finder flat on the end of the hub at the face side of the lockout hub. Then adjust for 90 degrees.

Yeah- i use straight edge across wheel mount surface, And put ange finder on that. -Plan on doing that again.
 
Well- had some other reasons to get under the truck- looks like 1/2 degree on the driver side,
And over 2 degrees on the pass side.

Grrr- that sounds not like something i wanted.
 
Axle housing seems straight- tubes both measure same angle on flats where i can measure them...


Spindles? Knuckles? Inner "c"? Ball joints? I will try to find some time to strip the thing down and figure it out.

Pass side is pretty easy to see with bare eyes when the front of truck is off the ground with wheels off. Looks like the angle starts right at the ball joints. nothing feels loose.
 
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