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How to beef up 1/2 ton axles

L

la_blazer82

1/2 ton status
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What could I do to make my f/r 10 bolts hold for a while. I'm adding 35" ProComp MTs and thinking of going with a 6" Superlift. Would it be better to go with a 4" lift, and could I use 16x10 wheels with one? I don't want to have any driveline issues, but know that the 6" will be good to go.
 
six inch and 35's will look as lame as my four inch and 33's. Go with a four inch. That SHOULD eliminate driveline worries. As far as beefing up your 10bolts, well, it can be done... but the cost of axleshafts and all the other heavy duty stuff would cost WAY more than swapping in 3/4 ton axles.
 
I'm in the same position but I dont want to buy new wheels. Can I make the 3/4 axles 6 lug?
 
I plan on re-gearing to either 4.10 or 4.56 and adding a LS or e-locker. I'll be using this as a daily driver (although I drive about 10 miles per day), will be doing mild to moderate offroading, and one or two long drives per year. This may become a full-time trail rig, but not in the immediate future.

What's the going price 3/4 ton axles: will probably consider a D60 for the front, and a 14 bolt for the rear.

I was told that I couldn't run a 16x10 wheel with a 4" lift. Would I have to add a ORD 1" zero rate lift? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
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I'm in the same position but I dont want to buy new wheels. Can I make the 3/4 axles 6 lug?

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Yes you can, but it'll be cheaper to just grab some stock 8 lug wheels while you're at it. TONYP a member here makes the 8 to 6 lug adapters BTW. If you do a search a week or two back, someone (crazy427?) posted on making a 14b 6 lug with these adapters.

Nate /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 
you can get an 14ff then convert it to 6-lug there's a member on here that make them IIRC. you can always sell you rims.
 
I hear that the front 10 bolt is a bit stronger than the rear. Should I consider swapping in a 14 bolt rear and keeping the 10 bolt front, and just match the gears? Although, I'm either going to have to get 8 lug wheels for the rear or try to add a spacer.

Should I consider going with either a 4" TC/Superlift spring up front, and ORD Shakle flip in the rear, instead of the 6" Superlift. I want to be able to fit 10" wide wheels.
 
I am going to swao in my rear for a 14bff and keep my front 10b since the D60 are so expensive(1K range), as for the lift I would go TC springs in the front, they flex and ride very good, for the rear the ORD shackle flip is nice, I would go with the 6" cause later down the road im sure you will want to get bigger tires just use a 2" block under the oRD shackle flip or buy new 2" springs for the back and that will net you 6" of lift.
My .02.
-Chris
 
Beef up 1/2 ton axles /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif

Put them into a Sammi /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif
 
for the price of new gears, installation, and a good LS you could have a dana 60. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif ff14bs are cheap... and making a rear 10-bolt trail worthy isn't. I highly recommend atleast swappin in a 14 bolt.

j
 
To make 1/2 ton last, just wheel smart, use good ujoints and stay off the gas and don't push the rig, when it feel like it's bound up, get off the gas.

Now is did finally get CTM's and Superior Crmo Axles for the Dana 44, but I run 35" MTR's and a Doubler with 4:10 gears, and I have a few hours of seat time that allows me to understand exactly what my rig will do and what it won't do.

It all about the skinny pedal and the seat time fellas.

1/2 Ton baby!!!! Don't go out and spend a lot of cash without doing some wheeling with what you have first, get some seat time before you decide what to upgrade first. Gear always first in my opinion.

Have fun and good luck.

Rob
 
[ QUOTE ]
To make 1/2 ton last, just wheel smart, use good ujoints and stay off the gas and don't push the rig, when it feel like it's bound up, get off the gas.

Now is did finally get CTM's and Superior Crmo Axles for the Dana 44, but I run 35" MTR's and a Doubler with 4:10 gears, and I have a few hours of seat time that allows me to understand exactly what my rig will do and what it won't do.

It all about the skinny pedal and the seat time fellas.

1/2 Ton baby!!!! Don't go out and spend a lot of cash without doing some wheeling with what you have first, get some seat time before you decide what to upgrade first. Gear always first in my opinion.

Have fun and good luck.

Rob

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I'm glad to see this post, most of the time people would say get rid of the 1/2ton stuff.....

The 60's and 14b are cool and stronger but I gotta tell you that I think that I've been able to climb some stuff or positition better because of weighing less than similar equiped vehicles with 60's & 14bs.

Right on /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gifwith the skinny pedal, knowing you truck and keeping caps on the front u-joints from spitting out or cracking. Wheel it and have fun with it.
 
So if I were to keep the 1/2 tons, what should I do to them to run 35s, other than gearing and maybe lockers. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
So if I were to keep the 1/2 tons, what should I do to them to run 35s, other than gearing and maybe lockers. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

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My suggestion is in order, 1. locker rear, 2. gears, 3. something upfront, prefer a S.L. for a 10b, 4.then setup rear disc brakes. Some good u-joints, I prefer sealed non greaseable, and always, ALWAYS carry a spare locking hub!
 
also.... what rear axle you got?

There are 28 and 30 spline 10 bolts. You would be better running the 30. Or maybe you have a 12 bolt rear which is already 30?/forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

and as to this: [ QUOTE ]
I hear that the front 10 bolt is a bit stronger than the rear

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I don't agree.... You'll prolly be breaking the front more than the rear. S'ok.. Just carry spares and the tools to change 'em.

Marv
 
With 35's I would run it till you break it. After you break the rear run a 6 lug sf 14 and be done. That way you can keep your rims if you have a nice set. I would regear then lock it up and not worry about the front 10 just drive smart and leave it open shouldnt have much of a problem unless you like to jump with the hammer down. If it does break fix it once and start saving for the 60. A 6" lift with 35 looks good and you wont have to do as much /forums/images/graemlins/hack.gif you will still need a little though. Even with a 6" you might need to do your drivelins, if you dont dont expect the splines to live as long. Or you could just lower the tc a little.
I ran a 6" when I had 35's and didnt do my drivelines. When I got around to it the splines on my rear shaft were really sloppy, they wouldnt lengthen it for me caust it was shot.
 
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