Does this technique work? I’m trying to bleed the clutch on a 2002 Silverado 2500.
CK5
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How-to bleed a hydraulic clutch?
- Thread starter fear_nothing
- Start date
I don't see how that works. Didn't watch part 2 for results.
I have not bleed a 2002 2500, so some assumptions on my part.
Bleeder screw at slave cylinder?
If so get a large plastic syringe 3-4 oz, load that up with fluid use rubber vac tube zip tie to bleeder and syringe. Open bleeder, remove master cap, place rag over reservoir, maybe catch tray under.
Then slowly inject fluid through bleeder.
This will push all air out the top.
I have not bleed a 2002 2500, so some assumptions on my part.
Bleeder screw at slave cylinder?
If so get a large plastic syringe 3-4 oz, load that up with fluid use rubber vac tube zip tie to bleeder and syringe. Open bleeder, remove master cap, place rag over reservoir, maybe catch tray under.
Then slowly inject fluid through bleeder.
This will push all air out the top.
Oh and wear eye protection preferably chemical goggles.
Do Not inject hydraulic fluid(brake fluid too) into your skin. You will be at best very sick and painful procedure, worst your dead.
This why no one else will tell you what I did.
Do Not inject hydraulic fluid(brake fluid too) into your skin. You will be at best very sick and painful procedure, worst your dead.
This why no one else will tell you what I did.
Yes on the bleeder screw/nut @ the slave cylinder.
Interesting approach - I may try your suggestion later this evening. Thanks
So the connection between the slave the master somehow became unhooked, not sure how that happened? The cable has been reattached. Bled the system, the pedal feels ok, but after several pumps it forces the two cables apart. Gonna replace the cable from the master to see if that helps.
when you say cable... do you mean the tubing is disconnecting at the yellow/gold connector in picture ?
I just replaced a clutch master on a GMT800 truck. It popped apart at the slave connection. It just used a little clip. I bought a prebled master cyl from napa. It has like a quick connect at the slave connection. Just plugged it in and made sure clip was in correctly and opened bleeder to gravity bleed a little and good to go.
I have bled a few stubborn clutch master & slave cylinders alone,by using my home made brake bleeder,that uses vacuum from the engine to suck fluid from the bleeder screw out..
The brake bleeder is just a jar with a metal lid that has two pieces of brake tubing soldered to the lid,one goes nearly to the bottom of the jar,that one gets hooked up to the bleeder screw,the other tube only passes thru the lid and that one is the one you attach to the vacuum hose from the engine..
The jar provides a barrier so air cant get back in the cylinders,and keeps the fluid from being sucked into the engine..
You can use just a vacuum hose in a pinch as long as your careful not the let enough fluid get sucked in to start being burned in the engine..
The brake bleeder is just a jar with a metal lid that has two pieces of brake tubing soldered to the lid,one goes nearly to the bottom of the jar,that one gets hooked up to the bleeder screw,the other tube only passes thru the lid and that one is the one you attach to the vacuum hose from the engine..
The jar provides a barrier so air cant get back in the cylinders,and keeps the fluid from being sucked into the engine..
You can use just a vacuum hose in a pinch as long as your careful not the let enough fluid get sucked in to start being burned in the engine..
Yes - that's where it came apart aka the OG problem. Got a replacement cable, line etc as shown to replace it. The part that chaps my hide, the cable I'm replacing is maybe 6 month old
Here is the new part
This was on ls1.com forum recently and was a really good method. Video does some explanations and demos.
This is good - the old timer explained it very well. However as luck would have it I'm still in the same boat w/ a spongy pedal. These methods have been used to bleed the system.
- Gravity Flow: Open bleed screw, have a helper run a reservoirs worth of fluid thru the master
- Pedal Method: Bleed screw open, push pedal to the floor. Close bleed screw (rinse repeat, many times)
- Vacuum any remaining bubbles out via method detailed above.
What am I missing - may admit defeat soon & bring it to a shop
The master is about 6 months old - worth replacing it?
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Some vehicles do need a bunch of bleeding, and you can over vacuum it by sucking air past the seal in the master.
