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How to break in new everything on K5?

blazindorito

blazindorito

1/2 ton status
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I want to go wheeling really bad since I got the truck ready.
What do you guys suggest for breaking in a truck that has been down for 4 years? During this time the engine, tranny, transfercase, axles, crossover steering, and so on have been replaced. Should I go balls out or just wheel slow or????
 
Is it street legal? ish...

Breaking the morot in properly is the biggest part, tranny and case as long as they were set up correctly should be fine.

The gears, run them at a constant speed for like 20 minutes? let them cool, and just repeat a couple of times. And don't beat on them for like 200 miles ish.

Thats atleast what the guys who built my rear-end told me.
 
I would think take it easy and get a feel for it. The whole truck sounds like an unknown of sorts. Get to know the old girl again and once ya got some seat time, let 'er buck.
 
Just do what most recomnend for motor break in (talk to your machinist). The gears I would do the 20 min or so drive then let the diff cool competely, do this 2 or 3 times and than change the fluid. Without knowing how your motor is built than as long as you did a cam break in drive gentle while changing the rpm of the motor on your first 100 or so miles then just drive it like a normal street driven car. Just remember to change all your fluids (except trans and t-case) after the first 100 miles or so
 
To properly break in a new cam -

On start ensure you have oil pressure and take the motor up to 2000 RPM for 10 minutes, then up to 2500 rpm for another 15 minutes
Over the next 5-7 minutes vary the rpm with short bursts to 2000 to 3000 rpm's.

The reason for the high RPM is to get good oil onto the cam at all times.



After this cycle drain/refill the oil.
Then go break in the diff's... follow what was said above.
Then change all fluids in diff's and engine one more time.


It's important to change the oil like mentioned...
You want to get rid of all the assembly lube and contaminated oils.
Dont forget the filter on the motor.


BE SURE TO PRIME YOUR MOTOR BEFORE STARTING THE FIRST TIME
-Remove your dizzy, use a long flat screw driver, or go buy/rent a primer (looks like a discributor shaft missing the distributor) Hook your drill on the end and spin it up.
Missing this step will greatly reduce the life of your engine!!!! Even with assembly lube.
 
so what do ya guys recommend for breaking in the gears if this is a trail rig? My truck is not exactly street legal :crazy:
 
It is street legal. The engine has already been broken in. I was wondering about everything else, axles, tranny, transfercase, lift, tires, crossover steering, etc...

I will drive her to work a couple of times, just get to know it again. It is a lot different than when I started the rebuild. I have put a lot of work and energy into this and don't want to destroy it right away.

Want to properly break it in.

Thanks for your help.

I have worked hard to get it to the point it's at I'm sure you all know the feeling.
 
you want to give the gears time to heat up and cool down a couple times is all...

drive it to work for a week...
Change the oil's
and call it good...

I'd grease all your zerk's after the first week if you put any new bolts in that are greasable...
 
WTFO!!!!! lmao j/k man

Like the guys said the gears need worked in. engines already borke in so no worries there. The tranny and transfer should be good to go.
Oh and take some pics of w/e you deicide to do ;)
 
I'd take her out on the simple trails and take some tools and some firends. I've recently done a ton of work on my truck and like you said after a few trips to and from work I re-torqued the heads, the u-bolts the driveline straps, lug nuts you name it and then - Bounced the sh!t out of it. Oh and it held...:D
 
i break engines in by going out and runnning the snot outa them, or put on an engine dyno and really work them. a sloid tappet cam does require a break in cycle of elevated rpms for 20-30 minutes then a cool down period. nice thing about roller cams, put em in an go!
 
i forgot about the rest of the drivetrain, your main concern is to just get a few heat cycles in the parts. drving to work (depending on where you live lol ) is a good way to do that. no shock loading the gears till they have had a few cycles to harden.
 
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